"^BANCROFTS 



TOURIST'S Guide 



THE GEYSERS. 



SAN FRANCISCO AND AROUND THE BAY, 
(NORTH.) 



' LuCENTio. Here is a wonder, if you talk of a wonder. 

HoRTENSio. And so it is ; I wonder what it bodes. 
Petruchio. Marry, peace it bodes, and love, and quiet life ; 
An awful rule, and right supremacy ; 
And to be short, what not that's sweet and happy. 

— Tajning the Shrczv. 

J'avais une demeure isolee, dans une solitude charmante; maitre chez moi, 
J'y pouvais vivre a ma mode, sans que personne eut a m'y controler 

— Rousseau. 



SAN FRANCISCO : 

A. L. BANCROFT &- COMPANY, 

1871, 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 187 1, 

By A. L. BANCROFT & CO., 

In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D, C. 






Bancroft's Steam Printing, Lithographing, Engraving and Book-binding 
Establishment, San Francisco, Cal. 



CONTENTS. 



De Profundis — A theoretical dissertation on the source of 

sulphurous and thermal springs 5 

A Trip into the Country, ii 

The Tour Northerly, 19 

Napa Valley. 29 

The Geysers, " . . 47 

Clear Lake Region, 68 

The Tour via Santa Rosa, 82 

•Marin County, 84 

Pet alum A Valley, - - - ' 91 

3anta Rosa Valley, 92 

!^ussian River Valley, 95 

Sonoma Valley, 100' 

San Francisco, - - -•- - - -- iii 

Tourist's Guide Advertiser, 227 



DE PROFUNDIS, 



Tacendo divenimmo la've apiccia 

Fuor della selva un piccol fiumicello, 

Lo cui rossore ancor mi raccapriccia. 
Lo fondo suo ed ambo le pendici 

Fatt'eran pietra, e i margin i da \:3,'iO.— Dante. 

It is not a little remarkable, in this age of inquiry and spec- 
ulation, that no attempt should have been made toward a 
geographical partition of the inner circle of the earth. Ques- 
tions equally profound have occupied the minds of the learned, 
and propositions as difficult of solution have been taken up, 
discussed, and laid aside as settled, in the vi^orld's store-house 
of knowledge. The origin of the intellect, the origin of matter, 
the invisible population of space, the compilation of an accurate 
map of the abode of lost spirits, a minute description of the 
celestial city, with detailed recitals of the condition and occupa- 
tion of its citizens, are a few of the subjects of no small import 
which have occupied the mighty intellects of our race. It is 
true that much has been written by philosophers and divines, 
much has been sung by poets and pictured by genius, in past 
ages, concerning certain states or habitations of this subaqueous 
sphere; but no attempt toward geographical position has been 
made, no lines of latitude and longitude have been di-awn. To 
present a perfect analysis of any portion of the external structure 
of the earth, with proper solutions of cause and effect, with no 
knowledge of its internal organization, is impossible. It is by 
penetrating beneath the surface that science unfolds her richest 
treasures. Except the seed be put into the ground, and the body 
2 



6 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

buried in the earth, there is no development of material or 
spiritual life. 

It is not our purpose to enter this field of inquiry, but merely 
to take a cursory glance at the subject; and should any clouds 
of skepticism overshadow the mind in the midst of these investi- 
gations, let it be remembered that all propositions capable of 
demonstration a posteriori, are held to stand, unless success- 
fully refuted. Belief is a creature of the will. It is no more 
difficult for Omnipotence to adapt beings to life and motion 
through earth than through air ; to perceive without light as 
easily as with light ; and as intermundane spaces have been 
peopled with immortals, would there not exist that vacuum 
which nature abhors, should the interior abysses of the earth be 
left an unorganized chaos ? 

The fallacy of the proverb, " Quand on voit la chose on la 
croit," is evident, when we consider where knowledge and pro- 
gress would be, if seeing was essential to belief. We see around 
us all nature teeming with life and animation, the whole uni- 
verse in motion; life is everywhere, in everything, in things 
visible and invisibJe, springing up even out of death ; but who 
can tell what it is, and where it is not? 

The crust of the earth varies in thickness, from a hundred 
feet to a hundred miles. Geologists are partially correct in the 
theory of fusion from heat. Climatic diversities exist to as great 
an extent belov/ as above the surface of the earth. To forever 
dispel the idea that one igneous liquid mass fills to the brim this 
vast space, it is only necessaiy to compute the effect of seven 
thousand miles of molten matter upon the egg-shell covering 
which envelops it. 

A more rational hypothesis constructs the interior a counter- 
part of the exterior, cemented by cellulated connections, com- 
posed of solids and liquids, produced by variations of heat and 
cold and governed by the same laws of cohesion and gravitation. 
That the intestine fo'xes of nature are at times stirred into 
motion by thermic generation of elastic gases, we knov/, from 



DE PRO FUND IS. 



occasional earthquake disturbances and volcanic eruptions of 
igneous matter ; but this only shows the impossibility of the 
entire occupation of subterranean space by a molten mass. But 
history will better supply the place of theory. 

The centre of the earth is reached by easy gi'adations, through 
a concavity which, from the exterior, assumes the shape of an 
inverted cone. The passage is divided into nine parts, or circles, 
diminishing in circumference with the descent, and is partitioned 
vertically, to suit the requirements of different ages and nations. 
Virgil, who made the tour with both ^'Eneas and Dante, declares 
the path quite accessible — 

facilis decensus Averno est, 

but easier of ingress than egress. 

Sed recovare gradum superasque evadere ad auras 
Hie opus, hie laboi est. 

There are also various apertures by which to enter the con- 
cavity. Korah found a mouth or opening in the wilderness of 
Paran, but the Hebraic entrance was afterward permanently 
placed at Tophet, in the valley of Hinnom near the city of 
Jerusalem. Since the dispersion, the Jewish people avail them- 
selves of the use of the aperture nearest at hand, being usually 
that of the nation with whom they dwell. Commencing at the 
centre of the earth, in the Jewish compartment, is situated, first, 
Gehenna, the resting place of the Son of the Morning. Next, 
ascending, is a large perpendicular plain, of various degrees of 
temperature, and at the bottom of which is situated a burning- 
sulphurous lake. This plain is sejjarated from the division above 
by an impassable gulf. The whole is enclosed in bars, and fur- 
nished with gates and keys. 

The Fathers of the Church have separated their compartment 
into four divisions. These divisions have been voluminously 
described in their writings, the boundaries accurately laid down, 
the dimensions given in leagues, and the extent, use, and occu- 
pation of every portion, topographically determined. The lowest 
division, or the one nearest the centre of the earth, is set apart 



8 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

as the permanent resting-place of those who are not friendly to 
the Church, The temperature here is the same as that of the 
division next above, but the difference consists in the duration of 
occupation; the second division being tenanted temporarily as a 
place of purgation. The two divisions above are denominated, 
respectively, the limbus i7ifantum and the limbiis patriim. The 
latter is now empty. 

The Mohammedan entrance is from Mecca, over a bridge, 
finer than a hair and sharper than a sword, called al Sirat. 
The Mahommedan compartment is divided into seven stories : , 
the first story, commencing with the uppermost, is called Jehen- 
nam, and is assigned to refractory believers, subject to release; 
the second, Ladha, accommodates the Jews ; the third, al Ho- 
tama, the Christians ; the fourth, al Sair, the Sabians; the fifth, 
Sakar, the Magians; the sixth, al Jahim, the idolaters ; and the 
seventh, the lowest, called al Hawiyat, the hypocrites. The 
climate varies from intense heat to excessive cold, according to 
the constitutional requirements of the occupants. 

Contiguous to Gehenna, westerly, lies Tartarus, the abode of 
the ancient philosophers and poets. The entrance of the an- 
cients to the concavity is situated on the coast of Italy, near Mount 
Vesuvius, oji the border of lake Avernus^ The river Styx, which 
encompasses the interior of the earth nine times, takes its rise at 
this point. It is ci-ossed by the path in several places, and in 
the fifth circle it widens into a lake. The subterranean habita- 
tion of the ancients is presided over by Pluto, and is divided 
into two separate states, Tartarus and Elysium. Upon the dis- 
appearance of the Isles of the Blessed, from the western ocean, 
the Elysii Campi were removed below. Erebus, a passage-way, 
lies above Tartarus. The Elysian fields are lighted by a sun 
and stars, watered by the river Lethe, which flows through a 
verdant valley, and separated from Tartarus by a partition wall 
of darkness. 

Limbo, the first circle commencing uppermost, is a state of 
indifference. As it is necessary here to cross the river, a ferry- 



DE PROFUNDIS. 



man, Charon, keeps a boat for that purpose. Beware the dog 
Cerberus on landing. To the limbus patrum and the limbus 
infantian of the Fathers is added, by the ancients, the limbus 
fatiwrum, which is always full. 

The second circle is the judgment hall of Minos, who receives 
confessions, and awards to each comer his place of residence. 
The third circle is assigned to gluttons ; the fourth to the 
avaricious and prodigal. Crossing the Stygian lake in the boat 
of the ferryman, Phlegyas, the fifth circle, is entered. Here dwell 
the wrathful and gloomy. In the sixth circle arch heretics are 
confined in fiery tombs ; the seventh is occupied by the violent; 
the eighth by the fraudulent; and the ninth circle, which is a 
frozen lake, is the abode of traitors. 

The vast spaces partitioned to India, China, the isles of the 
ocean, and other heathen nations which have peopled the surface 
of the earth from the beginning, would form an interesting study. 
Thus might the investigation be continued, and the whole in- 
terior of the earth opened to view . 

The situation of the general entrance to the concavity from 
this western shore was for a time enveloped in obscurity. Several 
claims to the only true way were set up by various persons and 
parties. In the early days of the settlement of our State, the 
midnight money-changers claimed to hold the main entrance; 
which claim was afterward disputed by the fair sex who first 
graced our shores. The votaries of Bacchus next claimed that, 
through the special revelation of their deity, they held posses- 
sion of the key. When these necessary adjuncts to incipient 
civilization were in a measure dispelled by the vigilance of our 
forefathers, attention was attracted toward the City Hall. It 
was claimed that in the ragers for office were vested the com- 
bined rights of all the other parties. But the lurid cloud that 
hovers near the true aperture, though hesitatingly flitting here 
and elsewhere round the bay, finally rested over our sister city 
Sacramento. It was discovered that the only true way was 



10 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

through our legislative halls ; that there principles, as well as 
men, hold direct converse with the shades below. 

The thinness of the earth's crust in our immediate vicinity is 
ascertained from two existing phenomena: namely, the character 
of the inhabitants upon the surface, and the occurrence of the 
multitude and variety of sulphurous, thermal, and other tartarean 
springs within our borders. That there exists intimate connections 
between these springs and primal causes below, is inferred from 
the fact that every mixture of every ingredient known to those 
who have passed thither is here ejected. 

The cause of the thinness of the crust at the fair spot to which 
this little book guides, has been attributed to the fact that it is 
situated directly over the grand laboratorium of the nations. 
This work-room is a narrow valley, situated upon the border of 
the Elysii Campi, at the terminus of the river Lethe, and is 
surrounded by precipitous mountains, composed of all the exist- 
ing mineral substances, and upon the sides of which grows every 
species of medicinal plants. The river here empties into a huge 
basaltic basin, spontaneously heated, and the entire flow of its 
waters is absorbed in the compounding of healing mixtures. 
The basin is divided into innumerable cells of various capacities, 
each of which holds separate communication, through fissures, 
with the surface above. Here the goddess Geysa, with myriads 
of subordinates, holds her sway. For every mixture there is a 
special attendant, who watches over a crucible, collects the 
ingredients, and spreads them before the goddess; she alone can 
mix them. 



A TRIP INTO THE COUNTRY 



For me, kind Nature wakes her genial power. 

Suckles each herb, and spreads out every flower ; • 

Annual for me, the grape, the rose, renew. 

The juice nectareous, and the balmy dew; 

For me, the mine a thousand treasures brings ; 

For me, health gushes from a thousand springs. — PoJ>e. 

What is it ? Well, perhaps the cure of a cold, the roasting 
out of a rheumatism, the pasting up of tattered lungs, one more 
shuffle for life; perhaps an escape from odorous offices, ugly 
rows of figures, stagnations and lawsuits ; an armistice, perhaps, 
in home affairs, a pause of the treadmill, a shifting of position, a 
momentary stillness in the storm ; a brief escape, it may be, 
from arbitrary affection, from tinctured sweetness, from love's 
abrasions ; perhaps it is a packing up of flitting heart-treasures, 
the wooing back of a gentle life; the last stake, which, when 
lost, leaves, in place of sweet fullness, a long, deep, noisome 
cavern. 

But what is it ? It is a towel after a bath, a thawing out of 
the system, oceanic distillation, extraction of neuralgia, physi- 
ologic solar lubrication; a coming out into broad sunlight and 
soft air, amid the ringing songs of birds, the music of brooks, 
and sweet flowers; out into the wild woods, over foaming streams, 
and out upon smooth lakes. It is taking a glance upward, a 
slipping of the fetters, a flash of the spirit into unwonted regions, 
a square look into the past and into the future. It is a renewal 
of the lease for another year, an extension of time on the part of 
our common creditor. 



12 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

We came to California to accomplish a purpose. We are 
somewhat pressed for time, especially if we have made a slip or 
two ; but, if we are diligent, unwearied in our efforts, we may 
yet be in at the death; we may get through in time to attend 
our own funeral. Our life at best is limited, and should it fall 
short, and should we die before our work is accomplished, there 
is no knowing what would become of mankind. 

The field is new before us, a virgin soil ; nothing ^is done, all 
is to be done. We have cities to build, railroads to construct, 
manufactures to establish, money to make. We put our children 
•out to educate, snatch the absolute requirements of religion as 
we pass along, read the newspapers, eat, sleep, and then — die. 
This is the obituary of thousands. Mingle to one a few more 
disappointments, to another a little more success, with now and 
then a failure, drunkenness ; and the Jife of nine tenths of the 
balance is complete. 

Once a year at least, every man and every woman should for 
a time loosen the strain upon this one set of nerves, get away 
from everything, and let themselves down. If time be an object, 
this is the way to make time; and with time, money. It fre- 
quently requires less money to go than to stay. Wisdom, virtue, 
and strength may all be found in profusion, a la belle etoile, two 
hours ride from San Francisco, Money is a good thing for our 
children to spend; but it is to be hoped that while spending it 
they will allow their minds to dwell somewhat upon other things. 
The root of all evil has become with us the source of all good. 
We eat, drink and sleep money. We marry with money, and 
we measure with money. By it we gauge our neighbor's piety, 
our friend's sincerity, and our own manhood. It outlives reli- 
gion, and outweighs affection. A base slave, it has become our 
master, and is placed in dominion over the intellect of man, which 
rules all else. Then come away from it a little while. Take 
off the halter, turn the mind out to pasture, and let it roll. 

It is good for the mother and her little ones to escape their cage 
occasionally, to let free their fancy and mingle their songs with 



A TRIP INTO THE COUNTRY, 



the songs of nature. It is good for the fossil-faced father to turn 
for a moment his ropy meditations upon the most direct route 
from other men's pockets to his own, and consider what life is. 
Let him draw a check, and buy health. And it is good for our 
conventional friends from the East to come out and see what 
freedom is ; to see old Mayflower liberty young again. Even 
nature here is free, ungoverned by set rules. If you will follow 
the lead of this little book, we will show you, among other 
things, a western apothecary's shop, Nature's grand medicine 
chest, the world's hospital. With the accommodations for all the 
world, we modestly offer the attractions of all the world. If 
it is air you want, we have it softer than Italy's, and more brac- 
ing than England's. W e have a brighter sky than France, more 
and better medicinal springs than Germany; and if there are 
any other blessings in the possession of any other country, we 
have them. We can cure the world, if the world will come and 
be cured. A thousand pools of Bethesda stand ready, all greatly 
troubled. 

Well understood, the charmed spot to which this book is the 
indispensable key, presents a wealth of natural attractions unsur- 
passed. When properly known, it will be one of the most 
popular tours upon the western coast. Nowhere is so much 
California to be seen for the money; nowhere so much mtilhtm in 
so little parvo. It is true we have not the largest trees in the 
world, but we have the stoniest; — hard-hearted trees, petrified 
through fear of the strange substances, which, ascending from re- 
gions below, seized hold of their roots, and drove life upward, and 
outward through their branches. It is true we have not waters 
falling from the greatest heights, but we have them springing up 
from the greatest depth; from depths requiring not a clear eye, 
but a free fancy, to fathom. And such waters! White waters and 
black waters, and many-hued waters; warm waters and cold 
waters; waters sparkling and waters sluggish; odorous waters, 
suggestive of their source ; life-giving waters, and waters to 
wing the spirit quick below. Kind mother Earth, from whence 



14 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

we came, and who ever waits, with open, loving arms to receive 
us, here expresses relieving draughts to soothe the pain, and soften 
the effects of our misdeeds. And other drinks she offers. Hun- 
dreds of soda fountains play invitingly for our refreshment, and 
to those whose constitutions will not . bear her waters, she 
presents her wine. From its incipient state, through all the 
various processes which add to its maddening virtues, to ripe old 
age, it may be found; of every color, and kind, and quality. 
Nature's hospital is aptly placed near to her vineyard. But the 
vineyard is not indigenous. Lot planted a vineyard ; there is 
'none spoken of in Eden. But if man will make wine, here is 
his opportunity; care should be taken, however, to preserve it 
pure, uncontaminated by the springs. 

Other fruits of the earth, and game, and fishes, here abound 
in profusion. The lake country is the nearest and most access- 
ible hunting ground that we have, and protection has been so 
thrown around it, by mountains which bar out the chilly fogs of 
the ocean, and the burning air from the plains, that houses are 
not necessary to the comfort of sportsmen. 

And we claim no offsets, only unmitigated good. We have 
the soft, hazy atmosphere of the tropics, without its enervating 
and miasmatic vapors; the fresh, invigorating air of ocean with- 
out its rheuinatics ; a dry season without drouth ; a wet season 
without chills. A truce is here made by the contending ele- 
ments. The forces of nature have laid down their arms; the 
earth puts on her holiday attire ; the air comes gently over the 
valleys, the joyous water rushes impetuously down the moun- 
tain side, or gently murmurs through the valleys, the burden 
and heat of the day are forgotten in the fresh coolness of even- 
ing. 

First, take a bath; we offer you a broad, clear, cool lake, or 
a mountain stream that would tempt Diana; a Roman swim- 
ming-bath, or a Turkish steam bath; a chemical bath, a vapor 
bath, a shower bath; baths hot and cold, of every" temperature, of 
medicinal waters concocted for all diseases, and all the free gift 



A TRIP INTO THE COUNTRY. 



of bounteous goodness; all mixed by unseen hands, and warmed 
by unseen fires. Make your choice; — the temperature that best 
suits you, and name any mixture of any ingredients within the 
dominions of Pluto, and it is ready waiting you. 

Now, what is your malady and we will cure it. But, first of 
all, simple existence in this enchanted realm drives the demon 
of evil out of a man. The sun does not smile here upon disease. 
Drag its loathsome form out into the broad light of day and it 
will flee howling into the wilderness ; or should it require a gen- 
tle reminder of home we will feed it with some of its own fami- 
liar mixtures. By sticking your leg into that medicinal mud, 
rheumatism will descend to realms below and the leg will come 
out whole. By infusing that sulphur freely into your blood all 
taint of heterodoxy will disappear from your system. Even a 
mind diseased is here ministered to by the quiet influences that 
surround it. Sulphur, iron, magnesia, and fifty other curatives 
flow ready for application internally and externally. Take 
all the ills of all the spheres and here is provided a reme- 
dy for each one of them. A hundred varieties of medicinal 
compound within a hundred yards. Thousands of springs 
within a hundred miles, and thousands of new fountains of 
health yet to be discovered within this space. Bathe in that 
chemical compound, stand in the steam of that sulphurous* 
spring, take a swim in medicine water. You may drink it, wash 
your clothing with it, and cook in it. Nature here has outdone 
herself. For ages she has been concocting her healing com- 
pound ; she will now make amends for decay and death. 

Where will be a fitter field in which to work out the great 
problem of man modifying nature and nature modifying man? 
Nature's work is here done ; it now remains for man to act upon 
it, and be acted upon by it. The type of civilization that these 
valleys will exhibit within a few centuries, according to these re- 
ciprocal rules, will equal or surpass that of ancient Greece or 
Rome, or any period of the world's history. Here are embodied 



1 6 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

all the essential elements of climate, food, and soil, requisite to 
the highest development of the intellect. It has been clearly 
demonstrated by the greatest ethnologists of our time that the 
intellectual development of our race is not governed by inherent 
natural differences but by outward surroundings. " Tell me 
what company you keep, and I will tell you who you are," says 
the proverb. Tell me the physical nature of your surroundings, 
climate, soil, mountains, plains, rivers, oceans, says the ethnol- 
ogist, and I will tell you the intellectual and physical state of 
the people. Their process of demonstration is thus : The accu- 
mulation of wealth, as that alone gives time for the improvement 
of the intellect, is the first requisite to social advancement. 
Wealth can be acquired only where the soil is fertile and the 
climate genial. In the tropics vegetation is most exuberant ; 
food costs literally nothing but the gathering, but steady appli- 
cation to any industry, either physical or mental, is, during a 
portion of each day, prevented by the heat ; irregular habits and 
an enervated mind are the results. 

The only partially civilized portions of America at the time of 
the discovery were the table lands of Mexico and Peru, which 
lie above the miasmatic atmosphere that surrounds them. 
Here was found humanity unwittingly working out the same 
pi-oblems of existence, by means of the same process, that other 
nations in past ages had done. In the frigid zones the inhabit- 
ants are compelled to labor incessantly in order to support life ; 
and therefore have no time for mental improvement. 

Now, in the valleys which we ai-e visiting, the most work can 
be done with the least wear upon bodily organs, and at the same 
time producing the largest returns. Soil and climate could not 
be improved. The general aspect of nature is such as to pro- 
duce a calm, contemplative effect upon the mind, such as is con- 
ducive to the highest intellectual improvement. Drought, the 
evil which sometimes afflicts other portions of our coast, on 
account of the configuration of the country, and its proximity to 
the ocean, seldom troubles these favored valleys. 



A TRIP INTO THE COUNTRY. 



17 



Sight-seeing in California, like all other young bigness that 
surrounds us, is destined to increase. Everything with us is in 
its infancy. Mr. Powers should have sculptured California as a 
huge baby, in the place of a pensive female with not over grace- 
ful limbs. Europe having become an old story with many of our 
Eastern friends, they come to California. They are welcome. 
We place before them our choicest productions ; their tables 
groan with the oil and corn and wine of the land. We clothe 
them in the purest air and brightest sunshine ever tui-ned out 
of nature's laboratory, and while we do not refuse their money, 
we agree, for every dollar they spend with us, to spend two with 
them. Ere they reach home their money will be there ; every 
man's money in his sack's mouth. Or, better still, should they 
decide to remain with us, we will divide up our thirty thousand 
acre farms, modify our earthquakes to suit their gentler nerves, 
and invent a sprinkler for our dry seasons, if they but leave 
behind their lightning, ice and coppers. 

The modes of travel over this country are not unpleasant. 
There is but little old fashioned staging left, and a mustang 
horse and California saddle, — which, like Solomon's temple, is 
strung together without a buckle, and with no metal save a few 
brass nails — are much more comfortable than Alpine ponies or Ita- 
lian donkeys. In fact, the mustang is a feature of the tour, an in- 
stitution of the country, a pleasant episode which ean always be 
engaged in one town and left in another. But do not expect too 
much from the mustang. He is a horse siii generis, an Ishmael- 
itish horse. Pat his neck and the leaden eye manifests not 
the slightest change. He will be your slave but do not attempt 
familiarity. He is a horse without soul or conscience. In his 
eye there is no sympathy; only cold, sullen indifference. Like 
some men, you can trust him while your hand is on him. The 
mustang does not trot, but enters at once from a walk to a full 
gallop. Dashing up to the verge of a mudhole he pauses on the 
brink and passes quietly through. Prick him with a spurless 



1 8 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

heel, and with remarkable tenacity of memory, he knows 
throughout a whole day's ride that there is no sting in it. 

The places herein described are quite accessible. Two hours 
sail over smooth waters, and our garden is entered, and in the 
place of traveling two or three hundred miles for two or three 
objects of interest, here are twenty lesser sights within half the 
distance. Three days or three weeks will suffice for the trip, 
It may be taken at any season of the year, though spring time is 
preferable. 

As it is tlie purpose of the publishers of this work to issue 
new editions as occasion demands, additions and corrections from 
all sources will be thankfully received. 

San Francisco, May 5th, 187 1. 



THE TOUR NORTHERLY. 



Two departures daily, at 8 o'clock a. m. and 4 
o'clock p. M., by the steamer " Capital," from Front 
Street Wharf, San Francisco. Time to Vallejo, 
one hour and a half; fare, $1.00, baggage free, 
double carriage and horses to Vallejo, $8.00 ; horse 
and buggy, $4.00 ; single horse, $2.00. Breakfast 
on board from eight to half past eleven, a la carte; 
dinner from four to half past seven, $1.00. At 
starting. Goat Island, a military station reserved by 
Goveriiment for military purposes, is seen about 
two miles distant on the right. Extensive barracks 
are erected on the eastern side. In ten minutes 
after leaving the w^harf, Alcatraz Island and the 
Golden Gate are opposite on the left. Alcatraz, 
covered wdth fortifications, with a lighthouse upon 
the summit, occupies a very commanding position, 
and is of great military importance, but it depends 
upon the main land for its supply of water. Pass- 
ing Angel Island, also a station for troops, and the 
green, grassy hillocks of Point San Pablo, we enter 
San Pablo Bay, a continuation of the bay of San 



20 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

Francisco. Following the track of the Sacramento 
boats until we reach the Straits of Carquinez, we 
turn abruptly to the left and enter the narrow sheet 
of water between Yallejo and Mare Island. In a 
few minutes, still upon our left, appears the Gov- 
ernment powder magazine, and shortly after, the 
Mare Island Navy Yard. On our right the first 
prominent objects are the Star flouring-mills and 
the grain elevator, both situated in South Vallejo, 
the southern terminus of the California Pacific 
railroad. The navy yard is one of 'ih^ most ex- 
tensive owned by the Government, and the only 
one upon the Pacific Coast. Many millions have 
already been expended here, and many more will 
be, to fit it for the growing demands of our nav}- 
on the Pacific . Its extensive ranges of massive build- 
ings, the sectional dry dock, and the armed vessels 
generally anchored near the shore, are objects 
which at once command the attention of the tour- 
ist. The flouring-mill, which we first saw on the 
right, is one of the first class, with a capacity of 
producing four hundred barrels of flour per day. 
This elevator is the first, and only, one erected 
upon this coast. In 1869, seven hundred piles, 
each forty feet long, were driven firmly down into 
the hard bottom, fastened together with heavy tim- 
bers, and filled in with rock from eight to thii'ty 
feet deep. Upon this foundation the grain ele- 
vator was erected, under the supervision of a gen- 



SOUTH VALLEJO. 



tleman from Chicago . Steam power here handles 
wheat at the rate of 35,000 bushels per day. Three 
scales weigh it at the rate of fifteen tons each at a 
draft. Grain can be weighed and run into a ship's 
hold at the rate of 250 tons per hour. The depth 
of water alongside is thirty feet. Thirty-eight 
ships w^ere here laden during the past year, with 
wheat destined for foreign markets. The storage 
capacity of the elevator is 350,000 bushels, or 10,- 
000 tons of wheat. 

South VaUejo. 

South Yallejo is an " addition." Eveiy old Cali- 
fornian town, as it assumes importance, has its 
"addition," which soon becomes the place itself . 
Some have several. San Diego, for instance, is all 
" addition." The old Mexicans did not understand 
the scijence of town placing. Drinking waters Vv^ere 
of more consequence to them than navigable wa- 
ters ; their minds ran more to corrals than to com- 
merce. What could Father Junipero Serra have 
been thinking of when, after coming all the way 
from Spain, he put himself down upon a bleak, 
sandy peninsula, in the place of occupying a spot 
which, in the making of the world, had been pro- 
vided for the accommodation of a large commercial 
cit}" ? One hundred years later, and the eyes of 
Gen. Frisbie and Mr. Fowler, perceived beauties in 
the aspect of South Yallejo, invisible to the venera- 



22 BANCROFT'S TOURISTS GUIDE. 

ble Fatlier. "While visions of converting tlie In- 
dians, peopling heaven and raising cattle and horses 
filled the mind of the one, the others jDcrceived in 
it the very spot infended by Nature for the site of 
a great commercial city, with an ocean fleet and a 
vast system of railways contributing to its prosper- 
ity and greatness. 

A large amount of heavy grading has been done 
here, and many good buildings erected, among 
which are three hotels. The Frisbie House is ex- 
tensive, and fitted up in a style of much elegance. 
The present landlord is J. M. Staples, formerly of 
the Auzerais House, San Jose. 

The time is not distant when South Vallejo must 
assume the proportions of an important seaport. 
The place originated out of the requirements of 
the California Pacific Railroad Company, and has 
been built up to its present proportions within the 
past three j^ears. The officers of the company have 
from its organization manifested marked ability, 
shrewdness and foresight, not only in the original 
conception of the route and location of the cit}^, but 
in the subsequent prosecution of the enterj)rise to 
a most successful termination ; in the concentration 
of the entire railroad interests north of the Bay ; 
and in the absorption of the most imi:)ortant steam- 
boat routes on our waters. 

The California Pacific Eailroad was originally 
known as the Marys ville and Benicia Railroad. 



SOUTH VALLEJO. 23 

The first work actually done ui3on it was in 1856. 
Dr. D. W. C. Eice (since deceased) was its first 
President, and to the day of his death a most zeal- 
ous worker in its interests. In the summer of 1867, 
W. F. Roelofson, Dr. J. M. Ryder, and Col. J. P. 
Jackson went to Europe to negotiate the bonds of 
the road, amounting to $2,250,000, and from the 
proceeds of these bonds the Sacramento and Marys- 
ville branches were built. The first train of cars 
ran over the entire length of the road in November, 
1869. In 1869, this company purchased the Napa 
Valley Railroad and consolidated it into the origi- 
nal incorporation. In April, 1871, it also T)urchased 
the entire property, boats, lands, wharves, etc., of 
the California Steam Navigation Company, paying 
therefor about $1,000,000, and causing that com- 
pany to disincorporate. In April, 1871, the San 
Francisco and North Pacific Railroad was pur- 
chased at the price, as stated, of $750,000. By 
these several purchases this company has become 
possessed of the carrying trade of the Sacramento, 
Napa, Sonoma, Santa Rosa and Russian River val- 
leys, as well as upon the chief rivers and bays of 
the State. The branches of road measure as fol- 
lows; Vallejo to Sacramento, 60 miles; Vallejo to 
Marysville, 91 miles; Yallejo to Calistoga, 45 miles; 
Donahue to Healdsburg, 38 miles; and the connect- 
ing link from Petaluma to Suscol, 22 miles. This 
connection is now being survej^ed, and will be fin- 
ished in time for the wheat season of this year. 



24 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

The steamer Capital, the finest vessel upon this 
coast, connects the business of this road with San 
Francisco, making the distance, 23 miles, in one 
hour and a half. From the earliest existence of 
the road. General -J. B. Frisbie and A. D. StaiT, 
Esq. , of Yalkjo, have been associated in its interests, 
and done much in forwarding the enterprise. The 
locomotives used are from the well known works of 
William Mason, Taunton, Mass., and sustain the 
high reputation of that manufacturer. The passen- 
ger coaches in use are claimed to be the finest on 
the coast, and fitted as they are with the Millers' 
patent platform, they reduce very materially the 
chances of injury by collision. 

The present officers of the road are : President, 
Col. J. P. Jackson; Vice-President, F. D. Atherton; 
Secretary, Geo. W. Kobeiis; Treasurer, Milton S. 
Latham; Auditor, G. W. Roberts; General Super- 
intendent, R. S. Mattison; Superintendent of Steam- 
boats, Capt. W. H. Moor; General Freight and 
Passenger Agent, L. C. Fowler; Master Machinist, 
Oscar Ford; Master Carpenter, R. L. Rutherford. 

It is generally understood that the controlling 
interest in the stock of this company is owned in Eu- 
rope. A very liberal jDolicy has been manifested in 
the conduct of its affairs. Local traffic has been 
largely increased by a system of commutation tick- 
ets, by which the usual fare is greatly reduced. 

Two trains await the arrival of the boat at South 
Vallejo ; one for Napa Valley and Calistoga, the 



VALLEJO CROSSING. 25 

other for Sacramento and Marj^sville. Passen_ 
gers for Vallejo may take eitlier train, but if going- 
bey ond Vallejo, care must be taken to get on board 
the right one." 

Vallejo Crossing. 

Passengers by either train are conveyed by car- 
riages from this ]3oint to the city of Vallejo for 25 
cents, to Vallejo White Sulphur Springs, easterly 
three miles, for 50 cents, orto Benicia, seven and a 
half miles southeriy, for $1.00. 

Vallejo is one of the most thriving places in the 
State, and its population is rapidly increasing. 
Principal hotel, Capitol, situated on the bay op^^o- 
site Mare Island ferry; terms, $2.00 a day, special 
rates by the week ; William Likins proj)rietor and 
owner. The livery stable of John Brownlie is close 
at hand on Virginia street, where horses and car- 
riages can be procured for White Sulphur Springs, 
or elsewhere, on reasonable terms. 

General Mariano de Guadalujoe Vallejo had the 
honor of giving his name to this city. He was sent 
in 1835 by Figueroa, the military commandant at 
Monterey,* with a body of troops to chastise the 
Indians about the head of San Francisco Bay, and 
after defeating them in a hard-fought battle, con- 
cluded a treaty of peace with them. For this ser- 
vice and many others of great importance rendered 
to the Mexican Government, he received large 



26 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

grants of land, uj^on a portion of which Yallejo now 
stands. It was in 1850 the caj^ital of the State, 
but shortly after the seat of government was 
changed to Benicia, and subsequently to Sacra- 
mento. The climate of Vallejo is delightful ; av- 
erage temperature 66^ in summer, and 49^ in win- 
ter. Cold winds and fogs are rare. The water 
front is unsurpassed, the largest ocean-going ves- 
sels being able to approach the wharf. Much of 
the prosperity of Vallejo is due to the ability and 
enterprise of Gen. John B. Frisbie. Vallejo is a 
lively, thriving place, surrounded by many objects 
of interest to the tourist. 

Mare Island. 

U. S. Navy Yard. — Ferry every hour; fare over 
and return, 25 cents. Immediately on landing, 
strangers are taken in charge by the guard, no one 
being permitted to roam ah libitum without a i^ass. 
The origin of the name Ma de la Yegua, is claimed 
by some to have arisen from a shipwrecked mare of 
Gen. Vallejo's having reached the island in safety ; 
by others, as having been used as a breeding' ground. 
The island is about ten miles in circumference, 
with a rich soil and uneven surface. Anchorage 
in the stream is good, and vessels of the largest 
size can approach the shore. Admiral Farragut 
took possession for the Government in 1854. Com- 
modore Goldsborough is at present commandant. 



VALLEJO WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS. 27 

and Capt. Werden, executive officer. The officers' 
quarters consist of a row of good, three-story, 
double brick dwellings, well furnished and lighted 
with gas. The other buildings are the foundry, 
smithy, ordnance department, magazine, store- 
houses, &c. The new Naval Hospital was erected 
at a cost of about $250,000, and the Drj^ Dock and 
Basin at a cost of $1,000,000. The dry dock con- 
sists of ten floating sections, and will accommodate 
the largest ships in the w^orld. From five hundred 
to two thousand five hundred workmen are con- 
stantly emplo^^ed. The island must be entirely 
cleared of them at night, so that four times a day 
the bay swarms with little boats, presenting quite 
a lively appearance. 

Vallejo White Sulphur Springs. 

Three and a half miles from the city. Stages con- 
nect with all the trains and boats at Vallejo ; fare 
50 cents. Time from San Francisco, 2J hours. 
These sj) rings, on account of their nearness to San 
Francisco, will in time, undoubtedly, become very 
popular. Improvements are being rapidly pressed 
forward, trees planted, artificial lakes, fed by the 
springs, buildings, &c. There are two springs and 
ample facilities for bathing, with hot and cold sul- 
phur water. The Hotel contains twenty rooms. 
The bar, ball room, ten-pin alley, and gentlemen's 
recreation quarters, are in a building separate and 



28 BANCROFTS TOURISTS GUIDE. 

apart from the hotel. An unlimited number of 
cottages will be erected as occasioned by the de- 
mand. Horses may be obtained on the premises. 
Board, $15 a week in the hotel, and $18 a week in 
the cottages. From five to ten persons may occupy 
a cottage. Children and servants half price. 
Hawkins & Netterberg, proprietors. Cinnabar, 
containing sixty per cent, quicksilver, is found on 
the surface of the hills southeast of the springs, 
and a seam has been traced some distance under- 
ground. 

Benicia, 

A beautiful drive of seven and a half miles overground 
which should have held the metropolis of the Pacific. 
With the Strait of Carquinez as the centre, in points 
of climate, soil, water frontage, and natural advan- 
tages for the site of a large city, this spot is une- 
qualed anywhere. The rolling highlands on the 
opposite side only lack the j^icturesque villas to 
make them fully a match for the Hudson or the 
Rhine. The Bay of Suisun, Monte Diablo, and 
the garden spot between, completes this most mag- 
nificent scene. Benicia contains several large 
schools: the college of St. Augustine, (Episcopalian) 
St. Catharine's Seminar}^, (Catholic) Monastery of 
St. Dominic, and the Arsenal and Barracks. An 
old brick school house of painful doric simplicity, 
marks the s^^ot of our incipient legislation. Taking 



NAPA VALLEY. 29 



the Napa Valley train upon the arrival of the 
steamer at Yallejo at 10 a. m. or 5 30 p. m. we pro- 
ceed on our journey. Shortly after leaving Vallejo 
Crossing, the traveler will observe the Good Tem- 
plars' Orphan Asylum, a large building ujDon the 
hills at his right. The valle}^ continues narrow 
until we reach the next station, 

Napa Junction. • 

Here a* town site has been laid off under the name 
of Adelante, but the town is yet in the future. 
The Napa branch joins the Sacramento branch of the 
railroad at this point, and the train for Calistoga and 
intermediate places in Napa Valley is switched off 
to the left; the Sacramento train taking a direction 
towards the northeast, while the Napa train pro- 
ceeds northwardly. 

Napa Valley. 

The magnificent valley of Napa he-re begins to 
open out in fair proportions. For about fort}'" 
miles on each side of the valley is a high range of 
mountains and hills, sometimes covered with grass 
or wild oats, but more frequently with dark ever- 
green trees or chajiparal, to the very summit, and 
all presenting against the sky that sharp, clear-cut, 
cameo-like beauty of outline x^eculiar in the land- 
scapes of the Pacific coast. The valley itself ex- 
hibits every variety of rural wealth : waving grain 
* 3 



30 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

fields, meadow lands, vast orcliards and vineyards, 
miles upon miles of fertile fields dotted with gi- 
gantic oaks, pleasant villages and cosy country 
homes, each enshrined in its own pet wilderness 
of shrubbery and flowers. No eye can look upon 
a scene of such transcendent loveliness with indif- 
ference. No valley in the Stp.te surpasses Napa 
in fertility or productiveness. There has never 
been a failure of crops here since the American oc- 
cupation of the country. In proportion to the area 
in cultivation, no part of the State excels it in 
the production of grains, fruits and grapes. Vine- 
yards are becoming very numerous, and the mak- 
ing of wine and brandy already constitute an im- 
portant branch of industry. 

Suscol, 

Formerly called Thompson's station, takes its name 
from the Suscol ranch, upon which are the extensive 
and widely-knov\'n orchards of Messrs. Thompson.' 
When Mr. Sim}3Son Thompson first commenced 
these orchards in 1852, the Mexicans laughed at 
him, sajdng that "trees would not gTOw without 
irrigation, and that without it even wheat would not 
grow more than six inches high." Indeed, such 
was the general oj^inion, even among Americans at 
that period ; but it was soon proved that a thorough 
'pulverization of the soil rendered all irrigation need- 
less. This Mr. Thompson demonstrated by show- 



NAPA CITY. 



iiig to the Mexicans ripe peaches, only two years 
old from the pit. The first sales were made at $2.50 
per pound. At this point was a bloody and decisive 
battle in 1835, between General Yallejo with a force 
of six hundred Mexican troops, and a vast number 
of Indians, in which the latter lost two hundred 
killed, and a greater number w^ere wounded. 

Napa City. 

This is an active and thriving town at the head of 
navigation on Napa river, thirt}- -nine miles from San 
Erancisco. There are six feet of water here at high 
tide. A steamer and many sail vessels ply on the 
river, chiefly engaged in carrying freight. The 
town contains between 3,500 and 4,000 inhabitants, 
and is the county-seat of Napa county. It has sev- 
eral hotels, an extensive flouring-mill, a ladies' 
seminary, collegiate institute, six churches, a bank, 
two vv^eekly nevv^spapers, gas works, engine house, 
one fire and one hook and ladder company, a Ma- 
sonic, Odd Fellows,' and Good Temj^lars' lodge. 
No point in the State offers better advantages for 
education. The chief exports are wheat, wool, 
wine, brandy, fruits of all kinds, and quicksilver, 
such being the principal productions of the sur- 
rounding country. The Napa seminary for young- 
ladies, established many years ago by Miss Maria 
S. McDonald, and still continued by her sister. 
Miss Sarah F. McDonald, is an institution of merit. 



32 BAAXROFT'S . TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

The Napa Collegiate Institute, under charge of 
President George, was established and is con- 
ducted under the auspices of the California Confer- 
ence of the Methodist Ej)iscopal Church, and fur- 
nishes every facility for a thorough education. The 
grounds are five acres in extent, filled with fine 
ornamental shmbbery, and the school edifice is one 
of the largest and most perfect in all its appoint- 
ments to be found in the State. The site selected 
for the Odd Fellows' College and Home, is a mile 
west of the town, and is commanding and eli- 
gible. The town is well built for a place of only 
twenty years' growth, and its situation is unsur- 
passed. Few towns in the State at this time are 
in a more prosperous condition. A greater num- 
ber of buildings- have been erected within the past 
twelve months than within five yeare previous, 
among which ma}^ be named the elegant iron-froiit 
bank building of Messrs. J. & J. H. Goodman, and 
a large edifice to be used as a town hall or for 
public meetings. A stage makes two trips per day 
to and from Sonoma, connecting with the trains at 
Napa City; fare, $1.00. There is also a road from 
Napa City to Monticello,. in Berreyessa Valley, 
twenty-four miles, upon which there is a tri-weekly 
stage, which passes on to Knoxville, Lake County. 

Pope Valley Quicksilver Mines. 
About thirty-five miles northeast from Na^^a City, 
in Pope Valley, are several quicksilver claims of 



QUICKSILVER MINES. 33 

promise, one of wliicli is now being successfully 
worked by the Phoenix IVIiningf Company. The 
mine has been worked from time to time by dif- 
ferent parties for several years, but has never been a 
paying property until within a few months. Under 
the administration of George Fellows, Esq., Super- 
intendent, it has paid several dividends, and un- 
doubtedly, from present indications, will prove 
permanently productive. The product of the mines 
since June, 1870, has been 1,175 flasks, worth 
$76,116.39, mth only twenty-five men emplo^^ed. 
Fifty men are now employed. Six retorts are now 
used, which will fuse 250 to 300 flasks per month. 
Pope Yalley is about ten miles long and from one 
to two miles broad, dotted over wdth beautiful oaks, 
pines and madronas. It contains some fine farms, 
and is one of the most beautiful of the inland val- 
leys of the county. 

Since the completion of the railroad, Napa City 
has become a place of great resort during the trav- 
eling season, and is often thronged with visitors. 
The Kevere House is the princi]3al hotel, and has 
been refitted and furnished throughout in elegant 
style, for the accommodation of travelers and per- 
manent guests. The proprietor, Mr. J. W. Sharp, 
will spare no pains to please all who may visit him. 
Terms, $2.00 per day ;, $10.00 to $14!'00 per week. 
A pleasant place for families is the boarding-house 
of Mr. S. E. Smith, corner of Third and Kandolph 



34 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

streets. It is deiiglitfully situated, surrounded by 
evergreen shrubbery, newly furnished, and kept in 
elegant style. Terms, $10.00 per v,'eek; children 
and servants, half price. ^ 

There are many delightful drives in the environs of 
Napa. For a short excursion, a trip to Brown's Yal- 
ley, to the soda spring's, or to the magnificent orchard 
and vineyard of Messrs. Thompson, of Suscol, or the 
noble Magnolia Farm of Wm. H. Nash, Esq., up 
the valley, would prove delightful. For a more 
extended trip, which would afford the tourist a fine 
view of a beautiful portion of our California valleys 
and mountain scenery, such a route as the follow- 
ing would be delightful : Drive the first day from 
Napa City to Santa Eosa, visiting the famous wine- 
cellaj's of Sonoma on ihe way ; the second day to 
Healdsburg and the Geysers ; the third to Calis- 
toga ; on the fourth to White Sulphur Springs to 
dinner, with ample time to take the afternoon train 
for San Francisco. Or, to the Geysers, remaining 
over night, and back to Napa, stopping at the 
White Sulx:>hur Springs for dinner. The extensive 
livery stables of G. B. Clifford, at Napa City, can 
furnish carriages and horses, with careful drivers 
if desired, and provide an outfit just such as the 
tourist may require. One of the points of attraction 
for tourists near Napa, is found in 



THE NAPA SODA SPRINGS. 35 



The Napa Soda Springs, 

Analysis of the Napa Soda Water, by Dr. Landz- 
weert, Chemist, of San ;Francisco, May, 1856 ; 
temperature, Fahr., 68'^ : 

Kesidium from EvaiDoration iu qr. gal grs 17.19 

Bicarb, of Soda , 3.28 

Carb. of Magnesia 6.53 

" Lime ^.- • • • 2.72 

Cliloride of Sodium 1.30 

Super. Carb. of Iron ." 1.96 

Sulphate of^Soda 0.46 

Siliceous Acid 0-17 

Alumina 0-15 

Loss 0.62 17.19 

These springs are situated in the ' foot-hills five 
miles northeast of Napa City, some two hundred 
feet above the general level of the valley. The 
landscape from the springs is very extensive and 
magnificent. A fine hotel was erected here in 1856, 
but w^as burned to the ground only a few weeks 
after being opened. The i^roperty has repeatedly 
changed hands, and is now occupied by Messrs. 
Fenn & Burdell. The soda^prings are not much 
frequented by travelers, from the want of accom- 
modations, but will surely become so whenever a 
good hotel shall have been erected. The water of 
these springs is in general use througlfout the State. 
It is bottled on the s^Dot in its natural condition, by 
means of very ingenious machinery. One hundred 



36 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

and forty-four dozen bottles are daily sent to mar- 
ket. The water is ratlier pleasant to tlie taste, and 
is considered of mucli value for its njedicinal prop- 
erties. 

Oak Knoll. 

The magnificent estate of R. B. Woodward, Esq., 
at this place (formerly owned by the lamented 
Capt. J. W. Osborn) giv.es its name to this station. 
Here is one of the most extensive orchards in the 
State, which, like the whole of this valuable estate, 
shows everywhere evidences of careful cultivation. 
It wdll be remembered by many that Mr. Osborn 
was assassinated here a few years since, before the 
eyes of his wife and family, by a desperado nanjed 
Brittan, who was afterwards executed. 

Yountville, 

This is a small village nine miles from Napa, 
lying half a mile east of the station. It will prob- 
abl}' be superseded by a new town nearer the rail- 
road, the site of whi^h has already been laid off. 
Mr. G. Grozinger of San Francisco, has made a 
handsome beginning, by erecting here a wine house 
of brick, two stories high, one hundred and fifty 
by fifty feet and of the most substantial character ; 
and a fine ofi^ce, also of brick. He has twenty acres 
of grax:)es in bearing and sixty acres newly planted, 
and consumed last year five hundred tons of grapes 



ST. HELENA. 3; 



in tlie manufacture of vvine. Here are forty im- 
mense casks of tlie capacity of sixteen hundred gal- 
lons each, besides hundreds of tuns, puncheons and 
casks of the usual dimensions. The amount of wine 
kept in store is one hundred thousand gallons. 
Two hundred acres of vines have been planted the 
present season about Yountville. Distance from 
Napa City nine miles. Fare 50 cents. 

Oakville. 

A way-station, about live miles from Yount- 
ville, in the widest and most beautiful part of 
Napa Yalley. It is a trading centre for a large and 
prosperous farming community. About three 
miles above the station, in the hills on the left, and 
less than a mile from the railroad, are very promis- 
ing mines of cinnabar, which, from their favorable 
location, must prove of immense value, if the ore is 
found in sufficient quantity. That taken out thus 
far is of a high grade. One company, the "Oak- 
ville," has recently put up retorts and is at work 
with every prospect of success. 

St. Helena. 

A prosperous village, built uj)on a site of re- 
markable beauty. Population, about six hun- 
dred. Soil, gravelly. Several beautiful dwel- 
lings have lately been erected. St. Helena is the 
centre of a large population of thrifty farmers- and 



38 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE^ 

vintagers, and will, doubtless, eventually,' be tlie 
centre of the grape and wine trade for this region. 
There are thirty-three vineyards immediately around 
St. Helena, from nine to one hundred acres in ex- 
tent, mostly in bearing, besides many which are 
smaller or newly planted. The business is in a 
prosperous condition. Six persons are engaged in 
wine making and two in distilling brandy, affording 
an excellent home market for grapes. A county 
road leads from St. Helena to Chile's Valley, via 
Conn Yalley, and thence into Pope Valley; also, 
via Howell Mountain into Pope Valley. The lat- 
ter road is now being completed. The grade is 
said, in the steepest j)oi'tions, not to exceed seven 
feet in one hundred. This road also connects with 
a new road from Pope Valley to Knoxvilie, by 
which St. Helena vrill be twenty-five miles nearer 
than Napa City. Distance from Napa City, sixteen 
miles. Fare $1.00. 

"\^^Iiite Sulphur Springs. 

These springs, which are widely known for their 
medicinal and curative properties, are situated in a 
deep and romantic gorge of the mountains, two 
miles nearly west of the villagje of St. Helena, with 
which there is constant communication by a stage 
line. A fine stream flows through the gorge, form- 
ing a pleasing adjunct to the scenerj^ The moun- 
tains on each side of the sj)rings are very steep and 



CALISTOGA. 39 



sonifi one tlioiisand feet in lieiglit. Nature, so long 
blnstiing here unseen, is now utilized. Music and 
the sound of cheerful voices, the romping of groups 
*of happy children, and all the sounds that rise 
where merry crowds are gathered, now break the 
primeval silence of nature, which but a few years 
ago here reigned supreme. This is truly one of the 
most charming retreats in the world. No more at- 
tentive hosts can be found than the present proprie- 
tors, Messrs. Alstrom & Schonewald. The White 
Sulphur Springs are a place of great resort during 
the sr)ring and summer seasons; visitors maybe met 
here from all parts of the world. There is a well- 
kept hotel, with separo^te cottages for guests, bath- 
houses, and all the necessary conveniences for a 
comfortable sojourn. A magnificent hotel erected 
here in 1855, by Messrs. Tafft & Brewster, burned 
with all its contents in the following year. Sev- 
eral cottages have been recently built and many 
improvements made the present year. The road 
from St. Helena winds through vinej^ards and 
wooded hills, and is one of the best in the State. 
There are various charmiijg drives in the neighbor- 
hood. Conveyance from the railway station at St. 
Helena, 50 cents. 

Calistoga. 

The Hot Springs {aguas calientes) of Calistoga were 
well known to the Indians and Mexican settlers, 
who availed themselves of their curative properties 



40 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 



long before the occupation of the yalley by Ameri- 
cans. They are situated in a level valley near the 
foot of Mount St. Helena, in the northern part of 
the county, surrounded on all sides by mountains. 
The situation of these celebrated springs is one of 
much beauty, and the surroundings are j)icturesque 
in a high degree. No attempt was made to bring 
this locality into notice until within the i)ast few 
years. The property came into the hands of Sam- 
uel Brannan, Esq., in 1857. He determined to 
make it a place of fashionable resort, and has al- 
ready expended A^ast sums of money for the purj^ose. 
The improvements are on a grand scale, including 
a hotel, some twenty-five elegant cottages, bath 
rooms, a race-track, an immense number of trees, 
shrubbery, and flowering plants. Among the recent 
improvements are a dancing hall and skating rink, 
sixty by ninet}' feet, for the use of visitors. Upon 
the summit of Mount Lincoln, a beautiful hill near 
the hotel, is a reservoir which holds ninety-thou- 
sand gallons. The water to supply this is j)umped 
up by steam from Napa Creek, and conveyed thith- 
er by pipes. From the same source, a pond for 
goldfish and a fountain are supplied. "Upon Mount 
Lincoln is also an observatory from which is a mag- 
nificent view of the valley and the mountains in the 
neighborhood. 

Directly in front of the hotel, a well was bored 
several years ago, to the dej)th of seventy feet, 



CALISTOGA. 41 



when rock was struck preventing further progress. 
The uniform temperature of the water is 185° 
There are many hot springs of different tempera- 
tures, and varying in their chemical charttcter, and 
combining sulphur, iron and magnesia in different 
proportions. 

Baths%re nowhere found in such luxuriant vari- 
ety as at Calistoga. The visitor will be introduced 
to some which are peculiar to the place, and which, 
perhaps, he may never have heard of before. 

The Eussian steam bath is formed by placing a 
bathing room over a spring of the temperature of 
195° Fahr. The issue of steam can be regulated 
by slides, and the bather is supplied with air by an 
ajDerture provided for the purpose. The curative 
properties of these baths in certain chronic com- 
plaints is remarkable. 

The hot sulj)hur water is claimed to serve, with a 
proper seasoning of pepper and salt, as an excellent 
substitute for "chicken broth," and to be quite 
palatable. The incredulous can easily test the mat- 
ter, and ascertain whether the water is not ' ' victuals 
and drink" all in one. 

There is evidently some mysterious agency at 
work underground^ at Calistoga, not quite compre- 
hensible to visitors. Chemists and savans^ indeed, 
explain the matter in the most learned and scien- 
tific manner, by speaking of chemical reaction 
among mineral substances and the like, and make 



42 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

out a veiy plausible theory. But the explanation, 
to many people, needs as much explaining as the 
mystery itself ; and when a man finds the ground 
under hiS feet to be hot, and the waters issuing 
from it to be in the neighborhood of the boiling 
point, he cannot well help -harboring a suspicion 
that the diabolus ipse is at work within perilous 
proximit}'-, especially since the imagination is some- 
what helped to the sinister conclusion by a prevail- 
ing and most Stygian odor. 

A well was bored at this place, preparator}'- to the 
erection of the bath house, to the depth of sixty- 
five feet, when the boring instruments were blown 
out with tremendous, force, high into the air, as if 
some unseen power beneath was resenting the in- 
trusion of mortals upon his domain. The work- 
men ran for their lives, and could not be induced 
to resume operations on any terms. 

Here is another evidence that the presiding 
genius of the place does not like to be disturbed. 
An attempt w^s made to pump water from this 
well. After a few strokes, a violent stream was 
blown out of the well, ten or fifteen feet high. If 
the pumping was stopped the blowing would stop 
also, but renewed afresh as often as the pumping 
was resumed. The water at the top being cold, 
seems to hold in abeyance the steam and intensely 
hot water below ; the action of the pump relieves 



CALISTOGA. ' 43 



the superincumbent pressure, when the hot water 
below rushes out. 

One of the greatest luxuries afforded at Calistoga 
is the swimming- bath. The water stands at the 
temperature of 72^ Fahrenheit in summer, and the 
bath being fifty by forty feet and four feet deep, 
there is ample space for the swimmer. It can be 
engaged by parties of ladies or gentlemen on appli- 
cation at the office of the hotel. 

There are complete arrangements for chemical, 
vapor, tub, mud, and shower baths, all arranged in 
the best maimer to produce the necessary curative 
effects. 

The mud bath is built over a spring of which the 
temperature is 165"^, and is considered of remarka- 
ble efficacy in rheumatism. The chemical bath 
spring is 118°, and is the strongest sulphur Avater 
at the place. The ground is almost everywhere hot 
a short distance from the surface. A stew buried 
four feet deep comes up nicely cooked in two and 
a half hours. 

A wash-house is built directl}^ over a S23ring of 
pure soft water, of 113°, which seems to have been 
created expressly for laundry pur^joses. 

The average summer temperature at Calistoga is 
as follows : a. m., 55°, m. 86°; 6 p. m., 74° 

At Calistoga is also a fine race track ; and an 
excellent liver}^ stable. 

Grizzly, brown and cinnamon bear, deer, and 



44 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

every species of wild game, are to be found within 
ten miles, of Calistoga, and tlie streams from the 
adjacent hills abound with mountain trout. 

Charges at Calistoga Hotel, ^3.00 per day ; 
special terms by the week. There is a telegraphic 
station at the hotel, communicating with all the 
lines in the Union. 

Mr. E. B. Badlam, proprietor of the Calistoga 
Springs Hotel, devotes the most unremitting atten- 
tion to the comfort and accomodation of his guests. 

The National Hotel, kept by P. Sieben, has two 
dining rooms, one for regular boarders, and another 
for transient passengers. Charges, $2 per day, and 
$8 to $10 per week; stable and billiard rooms con- 
nected with the establishment. This is an excellent 
house for invalids ; charges, moderate ; neat, clean, 
newly furnished and lately oj)ened, near the rail- 
road station. Baggage taken free to and from the 
cars. 

There is an extensive distilleiw here, in which 
Messrs. Brannan and KeSeberg produce brandy 
directly from the grape, by which process the natu- 
ral flavor is said to be preserved, and the "California 
Cognac" rendered a rival to the best brands of 
France. 

A considerable village is springing up about the 
railroad station, and is assuming the proportions of 
an inland business centre. It now contains 600 in- 
habitants. 



PE TRIFIED FORE S 7» 45 

Petrified Forest. 

Five miles soutli of Cralistoga, on the ridge tliat 
divides Napa and Santa Kosa valleys, is a fossil 
forest, the existence of which was first made known 
by Mr; Charles H. Denison, of San Francisco, in 
July, 1870. Prof. O. C. Marsh, who visited the 
spot in October, 1870, in company with the Yale 
College scientific party, reports as follows : " It is 
about two thousand feet in height, and is mainly 
composed of metamorphic rocks of cretaceous age, 
which are in places, as we ascertained, overlaid 
unconformably by later tertiary strata, consisting 
of light-colored, coarse sandstones and beds of 
stratified volcanic ashes. This ridge had long been 
covered with a dense growth of chaparral, but just 
before our visit a destructive fire had swept over a 
portion of it, rendering it comparatively easy to ex- 
amine a large tract of country, which apparently 
had never been explored. A careful examination 
oi- the locality where the first prostrate trunks had 
been discovered, soon made it evident that those 
now on the surface had all been weathered out of 
the volcanic tufa and sandstones, which form the 
summit of this part of the mountain ridge. Several 
large silicified trees were, ^indeed, subsequently 
found in the vicinity, projecting from the side of a 
steep bluff, wdiich had partially escaped denudation. 
Extending our explorations among the mountains 
for several miles around, we were rewarded by the 



46 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

discoveiy of many additional fossil trunks at vari- 
ous points, sliowing conclusively that this tertia,rj 
deposit contained the remains of an extensive for- 
est of very large trees, which had a^oparently been 
overthrovrn and entombed by some volcanic irrup- 
tion. Portions of nearly one hundred distinct trees, 
scattered over a tract three or four miles in extent, 
were. found by our part}^, and the information we 
received from hunters and others familiar with the 
surrounding- country, renders it more than proba- 
ble that tlie same beds, containing similar masses 
of silicified wood, extend over a much greater area. 

The fossil trees washing out of this volcanic tufa 
were mostly of great size, and appeared to be close- 
ly related to some of the modern forests of the 
Pacific coast, especially gigantic conifers. All the 
trees discovered were prostrate, and most of them, 
after their petrifaction, had been broken trans- 
versely into several sections, apparently' by the 
disturbance of the enclosing strata." 

The trees lie generally north and south, some 
with portions of roots still attached. Prof. Marsh 
was unable to determine their age. He thinks the 
origin of 'the volcanic material which covered the 
forest, may have bee3:^Mount St. Helena. 

A grotto built of portions of these fossil trees, 
laid up without mortar so as to show their structure, 
has been constructed in front of the hotel at Calis- 
toga. Specimens are furnished to visitors. 



MOUNT ST. HELENA. 



Mount St Helena, 

An extinct volcano, is situated northwest from 
Calistoga. It is about five miles to tlie base and 
ten to the summit, although in a clear day api^ar- 
ently much nearer, and bv actual measurement 4.343 
feet high. It Vv-as named after the Grand-Duchess 
Helene, of Russia. The summit was visited by the 
Russian naturalist, Wosnessensky, in 1841. Tne 
copper plate placed upon the mountain, \vith a 
record of his visit, was removed for jDreservation by 
the officers of the Geological Sui-vey. Doubtless 
it was by eruptions from this mountain, in some 
long-forgotten age, that the petrified forest ten 
miles south was entombed. An excellent trail has 
been cut from Calistoga to the summit. 

The Geysers. 

There are two routes from ^ii^ Francisco to the 
Geysers; one by the steamer Capital from the foot 
of Front street, at 8 a. m. and 4 p.m., excepting 
Sundays, when there is one departui-e, viz: at 8.30 
A. M. Connection with cars at Yallejo for Calistoga, 
passing through Xapa valley. Fare to Calistoga, 
$3.50. 
• The other route is by steamer Sacramento, which 
leaves foot of Jackson street at 8.30 a. m., connecting 
with cars at Donahue, and thence, via Petaluma 
and Santa Rosa, to Healdsburg. Fare to Santa 
Rosa, $2. 



48 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

Stages leave Calistoga every morning and after- 
noon for tlie Geysers. Stages also leave Healds- 
burg every morning and evening for the same desti- 
nation. The fare either from Healdsburg or from 
Calistoga to the Geysers is $6. 

Passengers by the four o'clock departure from 
San Francisco remain over night at Calistoga or 
Healdsburg, and take stage the next morning for 
the Geysers. They can return on the same day either 
to Calistoga or Healdsburg, and, remaining over 
night, return to San Francisco the next morning. 

The road from Calistoga is called the " new road," 
that from Healdsburg, the " old road." Distance 
from Calistoga to Knight's Valley (now called Peace 
Valley) is eight miles; to Pine Flat, nineteen miles; 
to Geyser Springs, twenty-eight miles. From Healds- 
burg to Foss Station, eight miles; to Geyser Peak, 
fourteen and a half miles, and to Gej^ser Si^rings, 
twenty miles. ^ 

Over the New Road. 

Mr. J. F. Manning, in LippincoW s Magazine , gives 
the following vivid account of a trip over this road : 

"Early in the morning we are ready for the world- 
. renowned stage-ride to the Geysers. ' Punctually 
at seven, Foss, the proprietor of the stage line, and 
his assistant, Albertson, are at the hotel door. As 
promptly as a conductor on a leading raihva}' , Foss 
shouts out his ' ' All aboard ! " and is impatient of 



THE GEYSERS. 49 



dela5^ As the hand passes seven, the hour for 
starting, away y/e go, in two large open wagons, 
each d^.wn by four strong and spirited horses, who 
are familiar with every rod of the twenty-eight 
miles between us and the Geyser Hotel. 

The first ten miles pass along a narrow valley 
dotted occasionally with farmhouses. Thus far the 
road is nearly level, but now the valley ceases ab- 
ruptly, and the ascent of the mountains begins, 
^he horses are changed, and after a few minutes 
rest we take a fresh start. The countr}^ is wild 
and broken, no habitations in sight — nothing but 
Nature as it came from the hand of its Creator. 
We look ahead in the direction in which the road 
we are on seems to lead, and endeavor to descry its 
course, but it is like trying to see through the per- 
spective of a labyrinth. So we content ourselves 
with snatching occasional glimpses as some ascent, 
descent or sharp turn brings a portion into view. 

The track is just wide enough for a single car- 
riage. In many places, where it has been blasted 
out of solid rock, there are not six inches of leeway. 
The hubs of the right-hand v/lleels revolve close to 
the perpendicular banks, and the others almost jut 
out over the edge of the j)recipices, some of which go 
down nearly straight from one thousand to three 
thousand feet. After a ten-mile drive the summit 
is reached. It offers one of the grandest views of 
mountain scenery which the globe affords. As far 



BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDi 



as the eye can see (and tlie vision sweej)S many 
times farther in this clear atmosphere of the Pacific 
shore than anywhere east of the Mississippi) fount- 
ains succeed mountains, peaks are piled on peaks, 
gorges, ravines, canons, divide them, serving to 
throw into shadow the steeps as the fleecy clouds 
go scudding athwart the bluest of heavens. Gaz- 
ing away for scores of miles, the earth's surface 
seems nothing but mountains. We wonder where 
the plains are, the fields waving with grain, the 
vine-clad hills, the orchards, the villages and towns. 
Api^arently we are in an endless region of mount- 
ain waste, and doubt if it will be possible to find our 
way back again to civilization, even with a compass, 
unless it be by the skill of this daring champion 
reinsman of the world, Foss. How delicious to 
linger on this summit! ' The breezes, tempering to 
an agreeable point the fierce rays of the sun, sweep, 
not too roughl}^, clear and bracing over these top- 
most heights. It is a mountain paradise. How we 
long to tarry here for days, and get new strength 
and fresh inspiration from this well nigh aerial sj)ot ! 
As the stages vf ound their way up the steeps we 
met a carriage coming in the 023posite direction. At 
first the thought came that one or the other must 
back to some spot where the way broadened, that 
we might x^ass each other. But, b}^ unusual good 
luck, we chanced to be in a portion of the road 
where vv^e could see ahead several rods, and between 



THE GEYSERS. 51 



tlie approaching veliicles the track wiclened out a 
little, pieces of blasted rock and earth having lodged 
on a portion of the bank. Bj all of. one party 
alighting, and the carriage being drawn out to the 
very verge of the precipice and kept in place by se- 
veral strong arms, skillful driving managed to get 
us by safely. As there is only one line of stages 
running over this route, and private carriages very 
rarely travel it, little difficulty is experienced in 
meeting and passing. 

After lingering a while on the top of the mount- 
ain ridge, the eight mile descent down the other 
side begins. The horses snuff the air and prick up 
their ears, preparing for the downward course. 
Evidently they are glad they are up, and relish the 
prospect of going down, as easier and more excit- 
ing. The driver cracks his long whip forward over 
the leaders-, and, famihar with the signal, away they 
prance, and are soon in a ten-mile gait. In the 
whole eight miles there is not a single quarter which 
is straight. The road winds constantly, turning 
and meandering the entire distance. Sometimes 
there are short, sharp, elbow-like turns, almost in 
ox-bow form. Except at places widely separe„ted, 
the track is of uniform width, leaving only about 
six inches between the line where the outer w^heels 
roll along and the edge of the declivities, v*-hich 
shoot dov/n one thousand, two thousand, even 
three thousand, feet to the bottom, where the boil- 



52 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

ing, tumbling brooks course along over their rocky, 
slirub-borclered beds. The sides are rough with 
projecting rocks and scrubb}^ trees, mostly oaks and 
madrones. A tripping horse, a sudden lurch of the 
vehicle to the outer side, or a broken axle, would, in 
all human probability, throw the load into the 
abysses. And yet, during the nine years' driving, 
no harm has ever come to any one. The utmost 
care is used in keej^ing wagons and harness in ex- 
cellent order. If one can control his nerves, keep 
cool and enjoy the majestic scenery, the sure and 
nimble movements of the trained horses, the peril- 
ous points, and the skill and daring of the driver, 
there is not a j)leasanter ride on the continent. As 
the leaders pass the ox-bow turns, they seem to be 
plunging head-foremost against the thither bank, 
but as their noses almost touch it they spring quick- 
ly and with certain bound to the centre : round 
come the wheel horses in fine style, and the car- 
riage follows as smoothl}^ and easily as on the best 
race-track. The driver's face occasionally wears a 
conquering smile, and he says, with a slight impa- 
tience at our timidity, and an assuring tone and 
manner, " Perfectly safe — driven here nine years^ 
and no accident has happened. I guess ijoii will 
get there all right." 



THE GEYSERS. 53 



From Healdsburg to Geyser Springs. 

The road from Healdsburg passes four or five 
miles, tlirougli scenery of singular beauty. Fancy 
a countiy composed of mounds of from one liundred 
to five hundred feet in height, arranged in every 
possible style of grouping, or piled against and 
upon each other, yet always rounded off with most 
wonderful smoothness and grace ; not a line but 
curves as exquisitely as the loins of the antique 
Venus, covered with a sliort, even sward o:^ golden 
grass, and studded with trees, singly, in clumps, or 
in groves, which surpass in artistic perfection of 
form all other trees that grow. "This," said Bay- 
ard Taylor, "is certainly the last created portion 
of our planet. Here the divine Architect has lin- 
gered over his work with reluctant fondness, giv- 
ing it the final caressing touches, with which he 
pronoujiced it good. Our further journe}^ seemed 
to be through some j)rovince of dreamland. As the 
valley opened again, and our course turned east- 
ward toward the group of lofty mountains in which 
the Pluton river lies hidden, visions of violet peaks 
shimmered afar, through the perfect trees. Head- 
lands, crowned with colossal redwood, were thrust 
forward from the ranges on either hand, embaying 
i)etween them the loveliest giens. After crossing 
the Russian river a second time — here a broad bed 
of pebbles — are fields and farm-houses. The road is 
4 



51 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

continually crossed by deep arroyos, the smaller gul- 
lies being roughly bridged with loose logs, coYered 
with brush. We were evidentl}^ ap23roaching the 
confines of civilization." Eight miles from Healds- 
burg, at the foot of Geyser Peak, the trayeler 
reaches Foss station, which is twelve miles from 
the Geysers. The road passes up a small canon 
and crosses over the side of a conical mountain 
called Geyser Peak, w^hich rises 3,800 feet above 
the sea level, and in clear weather is dis- 
tinctly ^isible from the bay of San Francisco, 
Eastward, across intervening valleys, rises St. 
Helena, 4,343 feet high ; while to the west and 
south, the valley of Russian river, which here 
makes an afciaipt curve, S23reads out wide before us, 
a dazzling picture of w^armth, life, and beauty, cov- 
ered as with a misty violet bloom. The road is 
shaded with pines, oaks, and gigantic madronas, 
with an undergrowth of buckeye and manzanita. 
Gradually ascending, for a mile and a half, the first 
terrace or abutment of the mountain chain is 
reached, where the road follows the top of the ridge 
for three or four miles. Across a deep hollow on 
the right, splendidly robed in frosts, rises Geyser 
Peak, covered to the summit with purple chemisal. 
Descending into this hollow, which narrows to an 
abrupt gorge, the road regains the summit of the, 
ridge beyond the gorge, and gradually winding, 
brings the traveler to the height of three thousand 



THE GEYSERS. 55 



two liiindred feet, tlie highest part of the road, 
called the "Summit." Here is a region of the 
wildest sublimity. Sheer down descend huge 
mountain sides to depths unknown, for they are 
concealed by the thick-set pillars of the fir and red- 
wood. Opposite, heights rise equally abrupt ; over 
their almost level line, the blue wall of a chain be- 
yond, and scattered peaks in the dim distance. 
The intervening gorges run east and west, but that 
which crosses the course of the road, is divided by 
a narrow partition wall, or sharjD mountain crest, 
crossing it transversely, and connecting the sum- 
mits of the two chains ; and over this partition wall, 
called the "Hog's Back," lies the road. For sev- 
eral miles the road continues along the curves of 
this narrow ridge, (forming the "divide" between 
Sulphur .creek and Pluton river) which, although 
widened out by blasting and filling up chasms, at 
an expense of many thousand dollars, is rarely over 
ten or twelve feet wide, and in one place only seven. 
On each side the mountain plunges sheer down 
thousands of feet to the ravines below, the bottom 
of which is invisible from the steepness of the sides. 
This part ctf the trip has been compared to riding 
along the edge of the roof of a Gothic church. 
'This comparatively level portion of the road opens 
ujjpn a hilly region, and finally X3itches sharply 
down a steep mountain ridge, making thirty-five 
sharp turns, and descending sixteen hundred feet 



56 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

in a distance of two miles, to the Pluton river, where 
the Geyser Sx)ring'S hotel awaits the traveler. 

At the Geysers. 

The hotel stands near the Pluton river, which 
runs through a deep mountain gorge, called Pluton 
canon, and empties into Russian river. Standing 
upon the verandah, the visitor looks up Ge^^ser 
.canon, in which are the more notable springs, and 
which enters the Pluton just opposite the hotel, at 
right angles.- Mr. J. C. Susenbeth, proprietor of 
the hotel,' has taken every pains to provide good en- 
tei-tainment to all visitors to the Geysers. Good 
fare, civil treatment, comfort and cleanliness may 
be relied upon, and no effoi-t will be lacking to 
render a visit pleasant to every guest. 

The Pluton canon, extending to the light and 
left, is much longer than the other, and its sides 
very precij)itous — in some places perpendicular. 
The stream which flows through it is filled with 
mountain trout, that seem to sport, unconscious of 
the sulphurous odor that pervades the air, and the 
subterraneous turmoil in jDrogress close at hand. 
To explore the Geyser canon, we descead the bank 
of the Pluton by a devious, irregular, winding path, 
cross a small rustic bridge, and find ourself face to 
face with the chief wonders of this apparently "iji- 
fernal region." 

The best method of exploring, is to enter the 



THE GEYSERS. 57 



bottom of the canon and climb gradually to tlie top. 
The distance is half a mile. Many persons, ladies 
especially, are deteiTed from doing so, but tliere is 
nothing very difficult, or dangerous in it. The 
width at the bottom is from one to two rods, and 
the mountains forming its sides, rise fourteen hun- 
dred or fifteen hundred feet, at an angle of forty- 
five degrees. A small stream, rising at the head of 
the caiion, flows through its whole length. Cold 
and pure at its source, it- is heated and sullied in 
its progress, by the spiings that pour their waters 
into it. Springs of all sorts : white, red, and black 
sulphur, iron springs, soda springs, alum springs, 
epsom salt sj^rings, all unite to make of the little 
brooklet a nauseous, pale, milky mixture of unim- 
aginable ingredients, beyond the reach of chemical 
anatysis. 

Commencing at the foot of the canon, we first 
meet with the "alum spring," so strongl}^ impreg- 
nated with iron that incrustations are formed 
around it in a single night. Just beyond it is a 
deep pool, which receives the united waters of the 
various springs above it, and which has received the 
name of the "Medicated Geyser Bath." It is in- 
deed highl}^ medicated, containing iron, magnesia, 
sulphur, epsom salts, and other substances ; and be- 
in^- cooled down in its progress to about the tem- 
perature of summer, is said by visitors to be a most 
luxurious bath. Close at hand is a boilino- alum 



58 BAA'CROFT'S TOURIST' S^GUIDE. 

and snl2:)linr spring, and a "black sulpliur" spring, 
both of tlie temperature of loO'^. Beyond these is 
the "boiling black sulphur spiking," vrhich is con- 
stantly roaring in a state of violent ebullition. 
Proceeding further up the canon, the springs, great 
and small, become more numerous, and are bub- 
bling and boiling in all directions. The water of 
the stream is hot, and the earth under foot is nearly 
as hot as the water. The rocks on all sides are in- 
crusted with e23Som salts, tartaric acid, alum, mag- 
nesia and sulphur, which have been bleaching and 
mingling in all proportions, for unknown ages, and 
streaked their surfaces with dismal and unearthly 
colors. One spring is called the "Devil's Ink- 
stand," and the registry at the hotel is written with 
its dark colored contents. Every boiling spring 
has its own peculiar sound, varying with the season 
and the pressure of the atmosphere. One is called 
the "Devil's Gristmill," as it produces a sound 
precisely like that of a mill in motion. 

But high above every other sound, is the roaring 
of the great "Steamboat Geyser." The steam of 
this Geyser issues from an opening in the rocks 
about two feet in diameter, near the bottom of the 
canon. The heat is so great as to render the steam 
invisible for five or six feet above the aperture. On 
a clear day it forms a column three hundred feet 
high, and which is dangerous to approach too 
nearly. 



THE GEYSERS. 59 



But the prevailing- sound, more terrible to tlie 
visitor than all others, is the continuous subterra- 
neous roar, like that which precedes an earthquake. 
The cavernous ground shakes and trembles under^ 
his feet ; at the slightest aperture through the thin 
crust of the surface, hot jets of sulphurous steam 
escape. The discordant din of the hundreds of 
steam vents, and the noxious gases emitted on every 
side, combine to impress the visitor with awe or 
terror. He feels that resistless power is working 
all around him and beneath his feet, against which 
it were in vain to contend, and in spite of himself, 
finds doubts creeping over him as to the safet}^ of 
mortals venturing within the scope of its activity. 
Onl}^ a few steps from the Steamboat Geyser is the 
*' Witches' Caldron." All around this the ground 
is shaking continually ; the sm-face iS a clammy 
mass of mud mingled with crystals of sulphur. A 
horrible cavity opens in the black rock before the 
visitor, over seven feet wide, and of fathomless 
depth, filled with a black, diabolical looking fluid, 
seething, boiling and raging around the caldron, 
rising occasionally one or two feet above its sides, 
and sending forth a most doleful hissing and howl- 
ing sound, yet never running over. The tempera- 
ture of the water is 200°. 

A curious incident occurred here in 1861. From 
some unknown cause the ' ' Witches' Caldron " be- 
caiiie emptied of its contents and filled with steam. 



6o BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

The proprietor of tlie Ge^'ser Hotel, fearing that 
the place would thus be deprived of oue of its chief 
attractions, caused a small stream of water to he 
.led into the caldron, curious himself to see what 
would be the result. The instant the cool water 
came in contact with the lower portion of the cavity, 
a fearful commotion ensued. The ground for sev- 
eral rods about shook with violence, and in a few 
minutes after, the inflowing water was ejected with 
stunning reports, and thrown to the height of near- 
ly one hundred feet. In about three hours after 
the water was shut off, the viscid fluid re-appeared 
and has continued to boil and bubble ever since. 
No language can adequately describe the impres- 
sion produced by the first visit to the Geysers. The 
wild scenery around, the torn, irregular walls of 
the canons, splintered into form by earthquakes, and 
dyed in all shades of color by the action of chemi- 
cals, aided b}^ subterraneous fires, the fierce heat, 
the stunning, stifling vapors, and the Vvdld, threat- 
ening sound of the heated and pent-up waters, that 
seem maddened into fury and struggling to escape, 
all combine to produce sensations at once novel 
and startling. 

"The Mountain of Fire" is an extensive eleva- 
tion, crusted over with brittle crystals of sulphur, 
and from which steam issues in li hundred places. 
The sight is less impressive than many others, but 
a view of it confirms the belief of. the spectat* in 



THE GEYSERS. 6i 



the vastuess of the. subterraneous iires at work in 
this region. 

It would be useless to mention b}' name all the 
springs in this canon, if, indeed, all of them have 
received names. As is but natural, in the nomen- 
clature thus far adopted in this Tartarian region, 
his Satanic Majesty receives the highest honors. 
At the Ge^^sers the visitor will find the "Devil's 
Apothecary Shop,'' the "Devil's Inkbottle," and, 
strangest of all, the "Devil's Pulpit." The latter 
is the name of a projecting rock at the head of the 
canon. 

About four miles northeast, up Pluton canon, on 
the side of a hill at an altitude of two thousand 
two hundred feet, are the Little Geysers, a series 
of hot scorings, but which contain no mineral sub- 
stances. 

The region about the Geysers is wild and bea.uti- 
ful, with extensive forests and abundant game. 
Deer and bears, quail and trout, are still plentiful 
in these secluded mountain fastnesses. 

Eev. T. Starr King, who visited the Ge^^sers in 
1860, says: 

"The Gej'sers are situated in a ravine, called, 
not inappropriately, ' The Devil's Canon,' which is 
a vast trench a quarter of a mile long, cut out of 
another large ravine nearly fifteen hundred feet 
deep. 

Instead of following up the little stream that 



62 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

flows through the smaller ra^dne, we started for 
the upper portion of the canon, in order to follow 
down the rivulet that enters the frightful trench a 
pure, cold mountain rill, and issues from it a quar- 
ter of a mile below, hot and saturated with nearly 
all the acids of a medical laboratory. Just before 
reaching the point for the descent, we came upon 
the 'Boiling Caldrons,' as they are called. ThesB 
were openings in the ground, partly protected by 
a back setting of volcanic looking rocks, where 
pools of water were boiling or simmering. In one 
of them we could watch the swash, a slaty-hued 
ditch water, as it seemed, which exhaled the stench 
of dock mud. It appeared to be a vent for some 
boiling sewer of the pit. Three feet off, cleaner 
water was bubbling, with a gentle cooking sound; 
and at another short remove, steam was issuing 
from a score of vents in steady whiffs, depositing 
around each little opening beautiful feathery crys- 
tals of sulphur.' The ground was very hot, and 
soon suggested to the feet the necessity of quick 
observations. Yet the scene was not entirely devoid 
of life. A bob-tailed lizard, a genuine salamander, 
was running over the baked and burning soil as 
though he enjoyed the temperature. And twenty 
feet distant, charming wild flowers were growing, 
with a touch of blight from the neighboring heat 
or steam. 

The ' Devil's Canon,' which we now enter at the 



THE GEYSERS. 



upper end, after leaving these caldrons, is from 
two to three hundred feet deep, and as dreary a 
piece cf desolation as pne will be likely to find on 
the surface of the globe, and this side of the moon. 
It slopes on either hand to so narrow a bottom, 
that the little Pluton creek has just room to thread 
its waj^ through. A few very sicklj^-looking trees 
straggle along the uj^^er edges, but the sides are 
fatal to any vegetable life. Half-way down the 
earth is reddish; then vaiious dismal colors are 
laid in — the signs of a rich variety of chemical ex- 
periments by nature, on a large scale. There are 
the white knolls bulging out from the lower slopes, 
reddish, iron-rust patches, ashy patches, slaty and 
greenish stains, and every other hue that suggests 
blight and deadliness. Out of it all, too, steam is 
hissing in larger and smaller columns, from two to 
three hundred blow-holes, a fit accompaniment to 
the aspect of desolation. Standing on a juttingpoint 
over the upper end of the ravine, that commands a 
view on both sides, and also of the exquisite fresh- 
ness and beauty of the larger ravine walls, within 
which the ' Devil's Canon' is enclosed, the contrast 
of the organizing and the decomposing forces 
which nature wields with equal ease, is very strik- 
ing and impressive. 

The Pluton creek is cool when it first enters the 
smaller ravine out of the larger one, but it is even 
then strongly impregnated with sulphur, and 



64 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

tliougii beneficial, is an3''tliing but pleasant to take 
— like most beneficial appliances in nature. As we 
began to- follow it down bei^ween tlie hissing wails, 
we were saluted witli a stench which our chemical 
companion described as pure sulphide of hydrogen — 
better known to some philanthropists on unpopular 
platforms, as the gas set. free from venerable eggs 
when suddenly, ruptured. There must have been a 
frightfully large subterraneous nest of them not 
many rods under our feet. 

We hurried by many of the lesser wonders in 
order to reach the great Steamboat spiing, on the 
light hand wall of the canon. This is the spout 
whose loud wheezing we heard, nearly a mile oiF, 
while descending into the larger ravine on horse- 
back. Around it is a huge pile of slags and fright- 
ful clinkers, over which rises the continual roar of 
escai>ing steam- from an orifice two feet in diam- 
eter, and, in pulsations, precisely like those of 
a huge engine hard at work. Each beat sends 
the vapor up visibly fifty to a hundred feet; but 
in the early morning, when the air was cool, I 
saw a column five hundred feet high, and widened 
to a cloud above, belched from the strange boiler 
that relieves its wrath through the mountain 
side. Often, a little after sunrise, too, a rain- 
bow ' can be seen on the steam-cloud, spanning 
the whole length of the awful trench, with hues 
as clear as if thev were refracted in pure water- 



THE GEYSERS. 65 



drops, and not in sulpliui'ous va^^ors fresli from 
Hades. 

How a clieniist would revel in the nofiious and 
mepliitic vapors that puff or whistle out of the 
leached, hot 'walls! Here he Avould turn up a 
patch of brown, crumbly soil, and find a clay that 
looks like blue vitriol; near by, under a shelving- 
ledge, is a . brisk, bubbling pool, overhung with 
verdigris enciTistings; a fev/ feet off spurts a beaded 
jet of hot waters which sheds a dismal brown cast- 
ing over the surrounding earth; a little wa}- further 
still, is a spring that looks like pure hot ink; then 
we discover a rock of alum that Vv^eighs two or three 
hundred pounds; then a small fountain of Epsom 
salts; not far oft", again, a basin apparently of boil- 
ing soap-suds ; then iron springs, soda springs, 
white, red, and black sulphur springs; and soon a 
foul Stygian sluice, close to the wall, from which a 
steam exhales that covers the overhanging earth 
with a slimy deposit which eats j^our clothes if 3'ou 
touch it, as ravenously as aqua fortis. Whether 
the origin of the heats and va^^ors is volcanic, or 
simply chemical, is not decided 3'et, I believe, by 
the scientific gentlemen who have visited the ravine. 
If it is volcanic, Satan's medicine-shop must be not 
veiy far below the line of Pluton creek. 

After leaving the ' Steamboat Spring,' and clam- 
bering along the sides of a cliff, from which steam 
is flying through fifty fissures, we must sto^^ a few 



65 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

minutes at the ' Witches' Caldron.' This is on the 
same side of the ravine with the Steamboat spring, 
and some fifty rods below. It is a pool six feet in 
diameter, without any visible outlet, where a liquid, 
thick and black, is continually boiling and swash- 
ing. The portion of the wall that stands immedi- 
ately over it is begrimed, like a chimney back, for 
fifteen feet up, and then above is crusted with 
charming vesicular sulphur crystals. Twenty feet 
opposite, on the left wall of the ravine, is a crevice 
called the ' Devil's Glrist Mill,' from which boiling 
water spurts clean, and the steam issues with pre- 
ciseh^ the sound of a grist mill in motion. The 
turbid, miry hue, and substance of the "Witches' 
C aldron is the more curious from its neighborhood 
to this clear and powerful hot spring. The proper 
time to visit this sj^ot would be in some moonlight 
evening, when mid winds were up, and heavy clouds 
were drifting across the sky. Then, in the inter- 
mitting shadows and gleams, one might feel the 
presence of sjmits akin to the weird sisters around 
the reechy pool, and almost hear the chant — 

Fillet of a fenny snake 
In the cauldron boil and bake ; 
Eye of newt, and toe of frog, 
Wool of bat, and tongue of dog, 
Adder's fork, and blind-worm's sting, 
Lizard's leg and owlet's wing. 
For a cliarin of powerful trouble. 
Like a hell -broth boil and bubble. 



THE GEYSERS. 67 



The Indians have brought their sick once a year, 
during the last century, to Sulphur springs, not 
far below, but they report no legends that attach 
to the maryelous canon. 

After leaving the canon, we tried to bathe in the 
Holam, which is conducted at blood heat to a bath 
house an eighth of a mile distant. It was refresh- 
ing, as a bath ought to be when the water is medi- 
cated with ever}^ kind of drug and vapor that sepa- 
rately^ is accounted serviceable to the human frame. 
One ablution in such a tide, ought to save a man from 
the possibility of rheumatism for life. And more 
grateful than the bath, was the breathing of pure air, 
and the sight of healthful bloom, after two hours 
rambling over the hot ashes and through the Tarta- 
rean streams of the ravine, How delightful tlmt so 
little of visible nature is a laboratory, in which we 
see her chemical j^roeesses raw. The more wonder- 
ful chemistry is that which is sheathed in beauty. 
There is more violent appeal to the senses in the 
column of steam that roars through the crevice of 
clinkers, and mounts a hundred feet to melt away; 
but there is greater power and a more cunning 
handling of the chemical forces in the driving of 
water two hundred feet higli through the tree-veins 
to be arrested in the substance of leaf and twig, and 
in the sorcery that converts its drops into the hard 
column of the tree trunk, that will stand five hun-. 
dred years. 



68 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

In the ' Devil's Canon,' we see nature analytic 
and critical ; lier work is mostlj^ death. In the 
floYA^ers and groves, and hillsides lined with beauty, 
just outside the sulphurous gorge, and in the blue 
air and noiseless light, we see nature, synthetic 
and creative, wrapping her acids in sweetness, 
veiling her noisome vapors in perfume, transform- 
ing her fires into bloom, harnessing her deadly 
gases to the work of adorning the earth and serving 
man. And we will ride away from the Geysers, 
grateful that we have seen its marvels and terrors, 
and the more grateful that the Creator hides from 
us, by so much ever-renewing loveliness on the 
bosom of the world, the awful fact which the 
' Professor' has so concisely stated, that we. live 
on ti globe which has a ' crust of fossils and a 
heart of fire.' " 

The Clear Lake Region 

Is the only hunting ground of any great extent 
or imjDoi-tance near San Francisco, and its abundant 
game the chief attraction. Notwithstanding the 
inroads of civilization, the Lake region abounds in 
deer, bears, panthers, hare, squirrels, foxes, grouse, 
quail, pigeons, geese, and ducks, and its waters 
are filled with fish of many varieties; and the faoe 
of the country is so broken and mountainous, that 
wild animals can scarcely be exterminated. Doubt- 
less game will be abundant, at least for the next 



THE CLEAR LAKE REGLON. 69 

generation. As germane to this subject, we give 
the provisions of the Game Law, and the ]3enalty 
for its violation : 

"Section 1. It shall not be lawful for any per- 
son or persons hereafter to take, kill, or destroy 
any of the following game, within the time here- 
inafter specified, namely: quails, partridges, or 
grouse, mallard duck, wood duck, teal duck, or 
spoon-bill duck, and all other broad-bill ducks, 
shall not be taken, killed, or destroyed be- 
tween the fifteenth da.y of March and the fifteenth 
day of September in each year. 

" Sec. 2. It shall not be la^^ful for any person 
or persons hereafter to take, kill, or destroy the 
male or female of any elk, deer, or antelope between 
the first day of January and the first day of *July 
in each year. 

" Sec. 3. Any person or persons offending against 
either of the provisions contained in the preceding 
sections, or who shall buy, sell, or expose to be 
sold any such game above enumerated, or have any 
of the same in their possession, within the time 
and times therein specified, except such as are 
tamed and kept for show or cunosity, shall be fined 
in the sum of twenty-five dollars, for each and 
every quail or partridge, mallard duck, wood or 
summer duck, elk, deer, or anteloj)e so killed, 
taken, or destroyed, bought or sold, or exposed to. 
be sold, or in possession. 



70 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

*' Sec. 4. Each and eveiy person or persons 
offending against the provisions of this Act, shall 
be guilty of a misdemeanor, and shall be punished, 
upon conviction, by a fine of not more than five 
hundred dollars, or imprisonment in the county 
jail for a term not to exceed thirty days, or b}^ both 
such fine and imprisonment." 

The stage leaves Calistoga at eight o'clock, a.m., 
for Lower Lake and Lakeport. Fare to Lakeport, 
$5 00. Mr. Charles McGreer, proprietor of the 
line, drives a splendid team over a portion of the 
road, usually from Lower Lake to Lakeport. 

Where, the object in traveling by stage is to view 
the scenery, the first step should be^to gain a seat 
beside the driver, if possible. This will secure 
several advantages, among which are an easier mo- 
tion of the vehicle, an unobstructed and more 
extensive view, and good company. The stage- 
driver in California is frequently the owner of the 
line, and a California gentleman, above the average 
of his passengers in general intelligence and knov,d- 
edge of the country. The only disadvantages of 
an outside seat is greater exposure to heat and 
cold. 

Travel in these parts would be vastly increased 
if there was a steamer upon the Lake making reg- 
ular trips to the various landings, and connecting 
with good stage lines. 

Emerging from Napa valley at Calistoga, on our 



THE CLEAR LAKE REG L ON. 71 

trip to the Lake, we ascend Mount St. Helena \)j 
an easy grade. The road passes on the left side of 
a deep mountain gorge, gradually rising until the 
highest point is crossed, at an altitude of two thou- 
tandfive hundred feet. The summit of St. IJ^lena 
towers over eight hundred feet above. H^re, in 
the early morning, a most magnificent spectacle is 
presented. As the traveler emerges into the sun- 
light from the sea of mist which fills the valleys of 
the coast range, and which. until now has been in- 
visible, he finds himself shut out, completely iso- 
lated, from all the lower world. A limitless ocean 
surrounds him on every hand — not }5alpable, yet to 
the eye as truly an ocean as the Pacific itself. 
Through this ocean, as if to complete the illusion, 
rise the mountain peaks, like islands in the expanse 
— their shore-lines sharp and well defined, and 
their sides clad in trees and verdure, or glistening 
with naked rocks. As the sun rises higher and 
higher, the watery vapor loses its density and its 
continuity, separating into fleecy clouds, and finally 
vanishing like a dream. Then the valleys below 
burst upon the sight in all their loveliness, stretch- 
ing away in the blue distance, dotted with farm- 
houses, and traversed by living streams. 

It is not probable that the railroad will ever be con- 
tinued from Calistoga in this direction, as the most 
practicable route is probably from Suisun, through 
Putah canon, Berreyessa valley, and Sulphur canon 



72 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

to Lower Lake.. The countiy is quite level to tlie 
foot of Putah canon, and tlironghout Berreyessa 
valle}"; Putali and Sulphur canons, and the moun- 
tainous country from the head of the latter for 
eighteen miles, to the foot of Clear Lake, present 
formidable obstacles to the railroad engineer, only 
to be overcome b}' a large outlay of money. 

Eight miles from Calistoga is the Toll House, a 
pleasant breathing si:»ot, where the descent begins 
into Loconome Valley. This is a long, narrow 
strip, with now and then fertile spots, which are 
cultivated. Gold and silver have been found in 
this valley in small quantities. Twelve miles from 
the Toll House is a station for changing horses 
called 

Middletow^n, 

^n einbrj^o city, consisting of stables, a saloon, and 
a few houses, without much in the visible surround- 
ings to excite great hopes for the future. 

Three miles northwest of Middletown is situated 

Harbin Springs. 

A variety of mineral springs here abound, and 
visitors are provided with suitable accommodations. 

Guenoc. 

Four miles from Middletown, we arrive at Gue- 
noc, a small trading centre in Coyote Valle}^ v^^ith a 
store, postoffice, and a few other buildings. Coyote 



MOUNT ST. HELENA. 73 

Valley is ten miles long, quite level, and remarka- 
ble for tlie number of detached conical hillocks ris- 
ing here and there upon its surface. It is a beauti- 
ful region of fertile valley land, containing about 
ten thousand acres. From Coyote Valley the trav- 
eler proceeds, over Clear Lake Mountain — a low 
range abounding in quail, and a fine field for the 
sportsman — to Cache Creek Valley. Cache Creek is 
the outlet of Clear Lake. About twelve miles from 
Guenoc and tv/o miles from the foot of the latter, 
and at the junction of several roads entering the 
valley, is situated the town of 

LoTver Lake. 

Adjacent to this place are the dam and mills of the 
Clear Lake Water Company, which have given rise, 
for several years, to much disturbance and litiga- 
tion. The population is about four hundred. The 
princijDal hotel is the Virginia House, kept by E-. H. 
Lawrence. The vicinity offers great attractions for 
sportsmen. The celebrated Borax Lake is seven 
miles northward from the town, and the Sulphur 
Bank, ten miles. Borax is produced in large quan- 
tities, and has driven the foreign article from the 
market. Large quantities of sulphur from the 
works at the Sulphur Bank are consumed by the 
Marin and Santa Cruz Powder Works. A very fine 
view of Clear Lake is obtained from the road be- 
tween Lower Lake and the Sulphur Bank. Eight- 



74 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

een miles south, are the Eedington and Manhattafti 
quicksilver mines, both in successful operation. 
The Redington mine has proved highly productive 
for many years. Bartlett Si^rings are twenty-five 
miles north from Lower Lake. 

Mr. B. H. Lawrence, proprietor of the Vir- 
ginia House, is familiar with the hunting grounds, 
spending, as he does, much of his time with his gun. 
He will give all requisite information to sj^ortsmen 
visiting his house. Quail, duck, geese, and deer 
abound in season. Myriads of wild pigeons con- 
gregate invitingly upon the trees ; trout and perch 
may Idc taken from the middle of April to the mid- 
dle of June. Lower Lake is quite a flourishing 
town, the centre of the borax and quicksilver trade, 
and is destined to prosperity. 

Seigler Springs 
Six miles westerly. At the latter, a hotel is kept by 
Messrs. Snodgrass & Boone, who have excellent 
accommodations for invalids. The Lakeport and 
Calistoga stage line, carries passengers from Lower 
Lake. 

Six miles westerly from Lower Lake is 

Clear Lake, 

The waters of this lake are derived chiefly from 

springs beneath its surface, and along its banks. 

On the north shore, in one of the small bays formed 

by spurs of the mountains jutting into the lake. 



THE CLEAR LAKE REGLON. 75 



numerous hot, boiliug springs issue from fissures 
in the rocky bottom to a distance of two or three 
hundred yards from the shore, and spreading along 
it to twice that distance. The bather can here 
choose his own temperature. In the centre of ^the 
lake, where the water is seventy-five feet deep, gas 
bubbles agitate the surface over an area of hundreds 
of acres, indicating the existence of hot springs at 
the bottom. Some of these springs are of pure 
water; others strongly impregnated with mineral 
substances. The whole region round about abounds 
in hot and mineral springs, and the aspect of the 
country leads the observer irresistibly to the llfelief 
that volcanic fires have been, and still are, at work 
at no great depth beneath the surface. Indeed, 
the basin of the lake seems to have been formed by 
the sinking of the bottom to its present dej)th, as if 
by the sudden breaking in of a crust, leaving pre- 
cipitous, banks, with fifty or sixty feet of water, 
save in a few places, within a fevv^ yards from the 
shore. 

It is on the eastern slope of the coast mountains, 
and from twelve hundred to fourteen hundred feet 
above the level of the ocean. The length of the 
lake fro]^ the outlet of Cache Creek is twenty-five 
miles, and the breadth is constantly varying at 
difi'erent points. For the first tvfelve miles it is from 
one to three miles, when the mountains on oj^posite 
sides ai^proach each other, naiTowing it to less than 



76 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

half a mile. Beyond, the shores recede, and form 
a basin nearly circular, twelve miles in diameter. 
This narrow strait is the division between the 
"upper" and "lower" lakes. 

The lake contains several small islands, among 
which are Coj^empo and Alempo ; the former the 
site of an Indian village, and the latter, containing 
about thii'ty acres, the residence of Salvador, the 
chief of the Lake Indians. On the north shore, 
the mountains jut down almost directly into the lake, 
throughout nearly its entire length, scarcely afford- 
ing a footpath. The rocky line is broken only by 
a fcT^ little vallej^s, the largest of which, "Lone 
Valley," contains only fifty acres. On the south 
side • is situated the extensive plain called ' ' Big- 
Valley," bounded on the south by .the mountain 
ridge that divides it from the waters of the Pluton 
river. Here the shores are shelving and bordered 
by a growth of tule. The average depth of the 
lake is said to be thirty-five feet. 

From Lower Lake to Manning Lake is five miles; 
to Kelseyville, is sixteen miles ; to Lakeport, 
twenty -five miles. 

Kelseyville 

Is a small town uj)on the bordei-s of Kelsey creek, 
named after Andrew Kelsey, an early settler, who 
was murdered by the Indians in 1852. His death 
was avenged shortly after by a detachment of U. S. 



THE CLEAR LAKE REGION. 



troops, wlio attacked and severely punished the 
Indians in a great battle upon the island of 
Alempo. At Kelseyville is a gas-producing hill. 
By. sinking a spade in the earth, and applying a 
lighted match over the spot, the gas is ignited, and 
burns from one to five minutes. A hole was once 
dug seven feet, and a pipe put in, from which the 
gas burned for six weeks, and was then put out. 
Uncle Sam. 
Fifteen miles from Lakeport is Mount Uncle 
Sam (called Co-noke-ti by the Indians). It is two 
thousand five hundred feet high, and on the side 
fronting the lake nearly perpendicular. It presents 
a remarkable columnar aj)pearance from a distance, 
being composed of sandstone strata, upheaved to a 
vertical position. At its base are vast masses of 
obsidian, or black volcanic glass, and a large area 
over which the road passes, is covered with frag- 
ments of this 'material, which rings under the 
horses' feet as we pass. At another point are 
enormous heaps of pumice-stone, in blocks man}' 
cubic yards in size, piled up in wild confusion. 
On the lower lake is a bluff of this stone. Huge 
masses tumbling down into the water, float off like 
corks. Soda Bay is at the base of Uncle Sam. 
Innumerable soda springs here bubble up from 
the lake and from the shore. The water is said to 
be highly impregnated with soda, and stronger 
than any in market. 



78 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 



Lakeport, 

The county seat of Lake Count}^, is a town of four 
hundred inhabitants, situated near the shore of the 
lake in Big Valley. Board at the Lakeport Hotel, 
S. V. ChaiDman, proprietor, $2 per day, $7 per 
week. One newspaper, the Avalanche, is published 
here. This is a pleasant resort for visitors in search 
of health or pleasure. Boating, fishing, and shoot- 
ing can be enjoyed here to any extent. The hunt- 
ing season for bucks commences about the twentieth 
of June, but the does should not be killed until the 
first of July, the fawais not being able to take care 
of themselves before that time. Squirrels, hares, 
quail, ducks, geese, grouse, deer, grizzly, black and 
cinnamon bears, panthers, wild cats, foxes and 
raccoons are to be found in the mountains and foot- 
hills, and fish of many varieties abound in the 
lake. Boats per day, 50 cts. to $1; with an oars- 
man, - $2 to $5 per day. Bartlett Slprings are 
twenty-five miles northeast, across the lake. There 
are stage lines from Lakeport to Cloverdale, XJkiah, 
and Upper Lake. 

Mendocino County 

Is bounded on the w^est by the Pacific ocean, south 
by Sonoma, north b}^ Humboldt and Trinity, and 
east by Colusa and Lake counties. The area is 
about forty by eighty miles, and its coast line over 



MENDOCINO COUNTY. 79 

one liundrecl miles. Of its 2,000,000 acres, about 
900,000 are fit for cultivation. Two parallel ranges 
of the coast mountains extend north and south 
through the county. The intervening chains of 
valleys are very fertile, capable of producing all the 
cereals and fruits. With the exception of a strip 
from one to three miles wide, bordering directly 
upon the coast, which is excellent agricultural land, 
peculiarly adapted for the production of root crops, 
the entire region between the mountains and the 
Pacific, from fifteen to thirty miles wide, is a dense 
forest of redwood, and the principal industry of the 
inhabitants is the production of lumber. 

The valleys consist of rich agricultural land, but 
the country being comj^aratively unsettled, and ac- 
cess to markets difficult, from the want of good 
roads, they are chiefly used as a stock range. The 
climate being moist and equable, the grass is green 
throughout the year. The whole county is well 
watered and timbered. Eel River and Russian River 
are the two principal streams. This county abounds 
in game of all kinds, and the streams among the 
mountains abound in fish. For valuable informa- 
tion in regard to- this county, we* are indebted to 
Dr. W. G-. Alban, of Ukiah. 

There are two routes to Mendocino. One from 
Healdsburg in Sonoma County ; the other from 
Lakeport, the county seat of Lake County. 



8o BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

From Lakeport to Ukiah. 
A line of stages runs between Lakeport and 
Ukiah, making tri-weekly trips from eacli place, 
starting in tlie morning. Distance, thirty miles. 
Fare, $4.00. 

Scott Valley 
Is two and a half miles from L5-keport, on the road 
to Ukiah. It is five by ten miles in extent, and 
very fertile. White oaks grow here of remarkable 
dimensions. Trees are not unfrequently found six 
or seven feet in diameter, perfectly straight, and 
free from branches to the height of sixty feet. 
These oaks may be split with the same facility as 
redwood, and were extensively used before the in- 
troduction of saw mills, for the roofing and siding 
of buildings. Two or three "cuts" from one of 
these trees have sufficed to build a fair sized settler's 
house, with fences and outbuildings. 

The Blue Lakes 

Are situated twelve miles from Lakeport, on the 
stage road to Ukiah. There are two separate lakes, 
about one fourth of a mile apai-t, situated in a' 
canon between tjro steep and lofty mountains. The 
two lakes are, together, about six miles long, and 
about a quarter of a mile wide. The water is pure, 
blue and cold. No bottom has ever been found. 

Proceeding across the mountains dividing Scott 
and Big Valley from the Eussian Eiver Valley, and 
following the latter northwestwardly, we arrive at 



UKIAH CITY, 



Ukiah City, 

The county seat of Mendocino County. It is situat- 
ed in the centre of the beautiful valley of the Yok- 
ayo, (or Ukiah) on the head waters of the Eussian 
River, and on the inland mail route from San Fran- 
cisco to Humboldt and the north. It is about one 
hundred and twenty miles from San Francisco, and 
thirt^^-one miles above Cloverdale. Yokayo" Valley 
contains about thirty thousand acres, most of which is 
of unsurx^assed fertility. The town Avas first settled 
in 1856, and has prospered with the growth of the 
surrounding country, of which it is the trading cen- 
tre. The county buildings, public halls, schools 
and churches, are creditable to the place, and it 
contains many neat private residences. There is 
one newspaper published here, the Mendocino Dem- 
ocrat. Population, eight hundred. Three miles east 
from Ukiah, is a mineral spring, strongly impreg- 
nated with iron. and sulphur. Twelve miles north- 
westerly is a warm sulphur spring, and in Bell 
Valley, fifteen miles southwesterly, a fine soda 
spring, said to be better than that of Napa. The 
hills, in all directions, abound in mineral springs 
of various medicinal properties. Game of all kinds 
is abundant in the neighborhood. Travelers desir- 
ing to make excursions in other parts of the county, 
will find excellent teams at the livery stable of J. P. 
Smith. Stages leave Ukiah and connect with the 
cars, to reach San Francisco the same day. 



82 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

Sanel 

Is fourteen miles south from Ukiali and seventeen 
north of Cloverdale, in Feliz or Sanel Valley, 
through which the Russian River flows. It is 
somewhat smaller than Yokaya Valley, but equally 
fertile. Good bottom lands are now sold here at 
from $12 to $20 per acre. Game is plenty in the 
vicinity. There are soda springs not far from the 
place. Living is cheap here. At the Sanel House 
board is $1 per day or $5 per week. The stage 
stoj)S here for dinner. 

The Tour, via Santa Rosa. 

Between Napa Valley and the ocean lies a succes- 
sion of valleys through which the North Pacific Rail- 
way is nearly completed to Cloverdale, its terminus, 
twelve miles from the Geysers. First in order from 
San Francisco is Petaluma Valley, through which 
the road runs about ten miles, .thence through 
Santa Rosa Valley about the same distance into 
Russian River Valley. Towards the east are Sono- 
ma and Guillico's Valleys, noted for extensive vine- 
yards. Across the Golden Gate, opposite San 
Francisco, is Marin County, a mountainous grazing 
region, with intervening valleys and mesa lands, 
well adapted to dairy and agricultural purposes. 
The entire region is well watered and timbered, 
excepting the valleys, which like most others in 
middle California, are sparsely dotted with oaks. 



THE TOUR, via SANTA ROSA. 83 

There is much similarity in the general aspect of 
Petaluma, Santa Kosa and Russian valleys. To the 
€yes they appear to be perfectly level, and when 
cultivation has not modified their surfaces, all have 
the appearance of vast parks of oak, walled in by 
mountains and crossed at intervals by streams. 
They are separated only by low hills . Petaluma Val- 
ley has considerable flat iide land along the creek 
which traverses it. Santa Rosa Valley is almost en- 
tirely agricultural land, and Russian River Valley, 
the largest of the three, is distinguished by the wide 
strip of bottom lands along the river, noted for their 
l^rolific yield of corn. 

In the region of which we have sjDoken are many 
pleasant places of public resort, and several towns 
of importance. Four miles from the city in Marin 
county, Saucelito is a favorite place for excursions. 
It is accessible by steam ferry daily from Meiggs' 
wharf. Above it, fourteen miles from the city, is 
the pleasant town of San Rafael, sheltered from all 
winds, having excellent hotel accommodations and 
a charming climate. It is accessible by the steam 
ferry boat, Contra Costa, making three trips daily 
(Sundays excepted) to San Quentin Point, and 
thence by railroad three and a half miles to the 
town. Further nofth, on a navigable creek empty- 
ing into San Pablo Bay, is the thriving city of Pet- 
aluma, and beyond it to the north are the prosi3er- 
ous towns of Santa Rosa, Sonoma, Healdsburg and 



84 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

Cloverclale, all connected Avitli eacli otlier b}" stage 
or by rail, and each tlie centre of numerous stage 
lines penetrating the countr}^ in all directions, and 
bringing the towns on the coast into close connec- 
tion with those on the bay and with San Francisco, 
The steamer Petaluma leave San Francisco from 
Pacific street wharf, daily at two p. m. , for Petaluma 
via Lakeville, connecting at Lakeville with stages 
for Sonoma. Stages for Sonoma, also connect at 
Donahue with the cars of the North Pacific Railway 
and steamer New World. The " Sacramento" also 
runs as a freight aild passenger boat to Petaluma, 
leaving Broadway wharf at 4:30 p. m., and on Tues- 
days, Thursdays and Saturdays at 10 a. m. The 
Amelia leaves same wharf for Mare Island, Vallejo, 
Benicia, Martinez and Suisun. 

San Quentin Point, 
The landing place of the steam f errj'- boat from San 
Francisco to San Eafael, is connected with that 
town by a railway of three and one half miles. At 
at San Quentin the principal object of interest is 
the State Prison. The buildings are located half a 
mile from the landing on a slight elevation, and 
constitute a conspicuous as well as melancholy ob- 
ject of contemplation to the traveler in j)assing up 
and down the bay. The scenery is remarkabty fine 
in the neighborhood. The buildings are of brick, 
and situated upon lands belonging to the State. 
Eight acres are enclosed by a high wall for prison 



SAN RAFAEL. 85 



purposes; tlie remainder is devoted to brick making 
by convict labor. Large quantities of brick liave 
been sliijDped to San Francisco and other parts of 
the State. There are about eight hundred convicts 
confined within the walls, laboring at various trades; 
that of saddle and harness making being the j)rin- 
cipal ones. Numerous shops with steam power for 
various kinds of manufacture, are provided by the 
State, and the labor of the prisoners is let to con- 
tractors. There is a hotel and postoffice at this 
point, and a few other buildings. Taking the cars 
at the landing, the traveler arrives in a few minutes 
at the beautiful town of 

Sail Rafael, 

The county seat of Marin, three and a half miles 
from San Quentin and fourteen from San Francisco. 
It is situated upon a creek about two miles west of 
San Pablo Bay, and is completely sheltered from 
the rough westerly winds by the high mountain 
range between it and the ocean. The climate is 
remarkably mild and salubrious. On the north it 
is also protected by the range of hills which culmi- 
nate in the grand peak of Tamalpais, two thousand 
six hundred feet high. Its charming climate and 
situation, so near the city, have attracted thither 
many of the business men and wealthy citizens of 
San Francisco. There are many elegant private 
residences and gardens, and excellent hotels. The 
buildino'S of the old mission, established in 1817, 



BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 



are still used as a Court House. One weekly news- 
paper, the Marin County Journal, is publislied here. 
Principal house, the Tamalj^ais Hotel, R. Pardow, 
proprietor. The accommodations offered by the 
' ' Tamalpais " are such as are offered by a city hotel 
of- the first class. It is fitted throughout with gas 
and elegantly furnished. Charges the same as in 
city hotels of its class, $3 per day and $20 per week. 
An omnibus conveys passengers to and from the 
depot free of charge. Horses for the ascent of 
Mount Tamalpais are furnished at the hotel, at a 
cost of $3 for gentlemen and $4 for ladies. The 
ascent is made in three hours. The tourist can cast 
a fly in the trout streams which flow down the 
mountains, or take a shot at the quail, which are 
abundant in season, and may perchance meet with 
deer, of which there are many in the mountain. 
Stages leave San Rafael for Olema and Petaluma, 
every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday, at 1 p. m. 
and for Nicasio, on Monday and Saturday ^t 2J 
P.M. Return trains, connecting with the Contra 
Costa line, leave San Rafael at 7.45 and 11.15 a. m., 
and 2.30 p.m. 

Ascent of Mount Tamalpais. 

Saddle horses may be obtained for the ascent of 
Mount Tamalpais, the summit of which is twelve 
miles distant, reaching an elevation of two thousand 
six hundred feet. The ascent is made in about 
three hours. The stage road is followed for two 



OLEMA. 87 



and a half miles to Ross's Landing, where informa- 
tion may be obtained with regard to the trail. The 
ascent, though steep and tedious, is not dangerous, 
and the prospect from the top is magnificent. 
Eleven miles from San Rafael, on the road to Ole- 
ma, is the Pioneer paper mill, built in 1856. The 
buildings are large and substantial. Both steam 
and the water of Daniel's Creek, upon which the 
mill is situated, are used for motive power. About 
forty men are employed, day and night, in the man- 
ufacture of printing and wrapping paper. Three 
miles east of the paper mill, is the Pacific Powder 
Mill, erected in 1866, at a cost of $63,000. The 
works are scattered over several hundred acres, for 
greater security against exj^losions. Both steam 
and water power are employed. Both sporting and 
blasting j)owder are manufactured ; principally the 
latter. 

Fifteen miles northwest of San Rafael, is the 
small but thriving town of 

Olema, 

Situated in a fertile and rich district, producing 
heavy crops of gi-ain and potatoes, and possessing 
many fine dairies. The moisture from the ocean 
keeps the grass green here at all seasons. 

Thirty-five miles northwest of San Rafael, ujDon 
a level beach, near the entrance of the bay of the 
same name, is the active and growing town of 



88 BA.YCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

Tomales. 

This is a place of about one thousand inhabitants 
and the shix^ping point for a large portion of the 
produce of the adjoining country. 

Tex the Geysers, via Santa Rosa, from San Francisco. 

Take the steamer New World at Jackson street 
wharf, at 8:30 a. m., arriving at Donahue at 11:20 
A. M., where the Northern Pacific Railwaj^ train 
awaits passengers. Train arrives at Petaluma at 
11:50, and at Santa Ptosa at 12:30. 

Passing uj) the bay of San Francisco and into 
San Pablo bay, the boat enters the estuarj^ of Peta- 
luma creek, about three quarters of a mile wide, and 
arrives, after a pleasant sail of two and one half 
hours, at 

Donahue, 

The southern terminus of the Northern Pacific Rail- 
road . 

In 1868, the San Francisco and Humboldt Bay 
Railroad company was organized to build a railroad 
from Saucelito to Humboldt Bay, \aa Petaluma, 
Santa Rosa, Healdsburg and Cloverdale. Little 
was done under this organization except the grading 
of a few miles of road between Petaluma and Santa 
Rosa. In 1869 a new company was organized called 
the San Francisco and North Pacific Railroad Com- 
pany, to which the San Francisco and Humboldt 



DONAHUE. 89 



Bay Eailroad Company deeded all its rights of way, 
fraiicliises, etc. * 

The newly-organized company actually accom- 
plished nothing under its then management, until 
August, 1870, when Peter Donahue bou^iit the 
stock of the comj^any. Mr. Donahue commenced a 
vigorous prosecution of the work, about the first of 
September, 1870, and on the thirty-first day of 
December, 1870, he had the cars running from 
Donahue (a new town about six miles south of Peta- 
luma) to Santa Rosa, a distance of twenty-two and 
a half miles. In addition to the track laid between 
those points, a large and substantial wharf has been 
erected at Donahue, also large car houses, engine 
houses and commodious workshops. At the present 
time the road is completed to Mark West, eight 
miles north of Santa Rosa, and the remainder of 
the road bed graded to Healdsburg. The distance 
from San Francisco to Donahue is forty miles, 
which is run by Mr. Donahue's steamer Sacramento, 
connecting at the latter point with the cars. 

Mr. Donahue is the only man in California Vv'ho 
has built so manj^ miles of railroad in such a short 
time, and paid for it all as he progressed out of his 
own private means and exclusively with white labor. 

About the middle of last March the California 
Pacific Railroad Company commenced grading a 
road from Santa Rosa to Cloverdale by the wa}^ of 
Healdsburg, thus creating two parallel roads in a 



90 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 



valley where one was considered ample for the 
wants of the people. Mutual friends interfered on 
both sides and the result was a sale of Mr. Dona- 
hue's road to the California Pacific Railroad Com- 
pany f©r the sum of $750,000. Thus ceased Mr; 
Donahue's connection with the road. Mr. Dona- 
hue is a man of indomitable energ}^, who has been 
the architect of his own fortune, and to his enter- 
prise is due, in a large degree, the many public im- 
provements in San Francisco; for instance the Gas 
Works, whose founder he was; the street railroads, 
in which he owns large interests; the steamers, in 
which he had large interests; and first and above 
all, the foundry business, which he and his brother 
established in this city in the days of " '49 and 
'50." 

In the organization of the San Francisco and 
North Pacific Railroad Company, Mr. Donahue 
surrounded himself- with his most intimate personal 
friends. He w^as President himself, Mr. Edward 
Martin was Treasurer, and Mr. James O'Neill was 
Secretary. 

Stages connect at Donahue with Sonoma, fare, 
$1.50. A mile above is a landing called Lakeville, 
also connected by stage line with Sonoma. Entering 
the cars at Donahue, and traveling over almost a 
dead level, the traveler, in thii'ty minutes, reaches 
the city of 



PETALUMA. 91 



Petaluma. 

A well-built town of 5,000 inhabitants. It was 
settled in 1853 and incorporated in 1858. It is sit- 
uated at the head of navigation upon lietaluma 
creek, the upper portion of which is only navigable 
at some seasons of the year, at high water, by 
steamers and sail vessels of one. hundred tons bur- 
den. The Petaluma theatre, sixty by one hundred 
feet, is elegantly finished and fitted up with scenery, 
at an expense of $37,000. The American Hotel, 
Mr. Wm. Ordway, owner and proprietor, is a three- 
story fire and earthquake-proof building, with sixty- 
five rooms, fifteen suits of rooms, lighted with gas, 
marble water basins, and furnished throughout in 
a high style of elegance. Petaluma has five public 
and five private schools, all of a high order. The 
public schools are under the special control of J. 
W. Anderson as Principal, aided by nine assistant 
teachers. The private^ schot)ls have forty pupils 
each, on an average, and are creditably conducted. 
One of these, St. Vincent's Seminary, is a Catholic 
institution, under the patronage of the Sisters of 
Charity. It has also seven commodious churches, 
four Masonic and two Odd Fellows' lodges ; an 
efficient fire department, with three engines, and 
one hook-and-ladder company; gas, and water 
works. Two weekly and one daily newspapers are 
published here. Petaluma is the natui'al outlet and 



92 



BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 



place of trade for an extensive agricultural region, 
comprising nearly the wliole of Sonoma, and por- 
tions of Liake; Marin, and Mendocino counties. It 
lias a large and thriving trade, shipping a heav^^ 
amounii of produce to San Francisco, and supply- 
ing merchandise to a fertile and extensive district. 
Stages leave for Bloomfield daily, at 12:30 p. m. ; 
for Bodega and Duncan's Mills, tri-weekly. Dis- 
tance to Bloomfield, fifteen miles, fare, $1.50 ; 
Bodega, twent3^-five miles, fare, $2.50 ; Duncan's 
Mills, forty miles, fare, $4.00. Leave Duncan's 
Mills Wednesday and Sunday mornings for Point 
Arenas, L. W. Miller, proprietor. Stages for Two 
Eock and Tomales start every day, (Sundays ex- 
cepted) at 12:30 p. m. Fare to Two Eock, $1.00 ; 
to Tomales, sixteen miles, $1.50; Wm. Fairbanks, 
proprietor. Stages for San Eafael, twenty-two 
miles distant, depart Mondays, Wednesda^ys and 
Fridays, at 7 a.m.; fare, $2,00; Charles Tann, 
proprietor. Stages leave for Nicasio "Wednesdays 
and Fridays, at 2 p. m. ; distance sixteen miles ; 
fare, $1.50. For Whitman's Store, Tuesdaj^s 
Thursdays, and Saturdays ; distance, eighteen 
miles ; fare, $1.50 ; F. M. Lewis, proprietor. 
Principal hotel, the American, by Mr. Wm. Ord- 
way ; charges, $2.00 per day. Free carriage to 
and from the cars. 

Santa Rosa Valley 
Extends from Mark West creek to Petaluma valley, 



SANTA ROSA VALLEY. 93 

and is about twelve miles wide. In its centre, upon 
a creek of the same name, is the T)leasant and thriv- 
ing town of Santa Eosa, the counts-seat of Sonoma 
county, about twenty miles northerly from Sonoma, 
sixteen miles from Healdsburg,.and the same dis- 
tance from Petaluma. It was laid off in 1853, and 
is now the second town in the county. It was in- 
cori)orated in 1868, and now numbers 2,000 inhab- 
itants. Three hundred children attend its j^ublic 
schools, and two private, schools receive a good 
support. There are seven churches, the usual 
county buildings, a fire-proof hall of records, and 
one weekly newspaper. The Methodist college has 
recently been transferred from Yacaville to Santa 
Rosa. From the cupola of the Kessing hotel is one 
of the fairest views that the eye ever rested upon. 
St. Helena looms up grandly to the northeast. Gey- 
ser Peak to the northwest, and the valley stretches 
away in the distance to Petaluma. The railroad 
line runs north with very slight grading, for twelve 
miles in an air line, without a curve, and will fol- 
low Eussian river eighteen miles to Cloverdale. 
Six miles east is Guillico's valley, leading into So- 
noma valle}^ Four miles east are the Moyacamas 
mountains, which separate Napa and Sonoma coun- 
ties, and through which a practicable road has been 
comp)leted to Calistoga. Stage lines i-un in all di- 
rections from Santa Eosa, connecting with the 
coast, and with all parts of the county, and with 



94 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

tliose adjacent. Lines run regularly to tlie follow- 
ing points : To Mark West, six miles north ; to 
Windsor, ten miles ; to 'Healdsburg, sixteen miles ; 
to Sonoma, sixteen miles ; Napa, twenty-eight 
miles ; to Sebastoi)ol, seven miles ; Feuston, four- 
teen miles; Bodega Corners, seventeen miles; Bo- 
dega Bay, twenty miles ; Duncan's Mill, at the 
mouth of Russian river, twent^^-five miles ; Fort 
Ross, thirty-seven miles ; Timber Cove, fort}^ miles ; 
Salt Point, thirty-two miles ; Fisk's Mill, fifty miles ; 
Fisherman's Ba}^, forty-four miles ; and to the 
mouth of the Walhalla, fifty-six miles. The Wal- 
halla runs north and empties into the Pacific at the 
boundar}" between Sonoma and Mendocino coun- 
ties. From the mouth of Russian river the ocean 
is in sight most of the time. The road is rough, 
but the scenery magnificent. 

From Sebasto2:»ol to Bloomfield is seven miles ; 
thence to Valley Ford, four miles ; and thence, pass- 
ing through Big valley to Tomales bay, six miles. 
The road from Bloomfield passes through a beauti- 
ful and fertile country, free from timber. Tomales 
bay is in Marin county, and supplies Santa Rosa 
with fish, &c. 

The principal public house at Santa Rosa, is the 
Kessing hotel, F. H. Coe, proprietor. Board, $2.00 
per day. Stages to and from station, twenty-five 
cents. 

Ten miles from Santa Rosa is the small town of 



HEALDSBURG. 95 



Windsor, 

a trading centre for a large farming community in 
tlie neigliborhood. 

Healdsburg 

Is very beautifully situated in the midst of the ex- 
tensive valley of Eussian river. It is built upon a 
portion of the '' Fitch, or Sotoyoma ranch," about 
a mile west of the river, and two miles above the 
mouth of Dr}^ creek. It was first settled by Har- 
mon Heald, and from him derives its name. He 
established a trading post here in 1851, and laid off 
the towai. The situation is unsurpassed for beauty, 
the whole town being so completely embowered in 
a grove of majestic oaks and madronas, that its po- 
sition, when approaching it from either direction, 
cannot be distinguished until the traveler is fairly 
within the limits of the town. It is eighty miles 
from San Francisco, and the principal resources of 
the place are derived from farming. The corn- 
lands in the Eussian river bottoms are of unrivaled 
fertilit}^, and the area suitable for other cereals, as 
w^eil as for orchards, vineyards and pasturage, is 
very extensive. Gold was discovered in the spring 
of 1854, on Dry creek, two miles south of the town, 
but not sufficient to pay for worldng at the high 
^ price of labor that then prevailed. Healdsburg has 
one public school, a grammar school and an acad- 
emy, eight churches, a Masonic, Odd Fellows', and 



96 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

Good Templars' lodge, and one newspaper. There 
are three saw-mills within eight miles of town ; also 
a flour-mill in the tow^n and another three miles 
distant. The present population is rtbout two 
thousand. Healdsburg is twenty miles from the 
ocean, the same distance from the Geysers, and 
fourteen from Skagg's Springs. The scenery on 
the route to the two latter places, is wild and pic- 
turesque in the highest degree. Three miles south 
of Healdsburg are the famous Geyser soda sj)rings ; 
also a Sirring of Seltzer water not surpassed by any 
in the State. The waters have excellent medical 
qualities, and are slightly aj^erient. The drive to 
the spring is delightful. The Ge3^sers, twenty 
miles distant, north from Healdsburg; and Foss 
station, eight miles northeast. Game is abundant 
in the season in the vicinity of the town. Princi- 
pal hotel, Sotoyama House ; B. C. Wright, propri- 
etor. .Board, $2,00 per day, and from $10.00 to 
$12.00 per week. Stages leave daily for Santa 
Eosa, Cloverdale, Geyser Springs and Skaggs' 
Springs. Leave for Skaggs' Springs at 7 a. m., 
arrive at 9, and returning leave at 3 p. m., arriving 
at Healdsburg M 5 p. m. 

Skaggs' Hot Springs 

Are celebrated for remarkable medical properties, 
and are strongly impregnated with sulphur, iron, 
magnesia, borax, and soda. The temperature of 



CLOVERDALE. 97 



the water is from 120° to 140°. A fine hotel and 
separate cottages furnish ample accommodations 
for tourists or permanent guests. B. Frank Tuck- 
er, proprietor. 

[ For particulars of the route from Healdsburg 
to the Geysers, see page 53.] 

Cloverdale 

Is a pleasant place on its own account, and besides, 
is surrounded by many attractions. It is a small 
but thriving inland village, situated near the -head 
of the valley of Kussian river, in the south part of 
Sonoma county, about four miles from the line of 
Mendocino, and forty-eight miles north from Peta- 
luma. The scenery surrounding it can hardly be 
suri^assed. On the east, north and west, the 
mountains form almost an amphitheatre, while to 
the south is a magnificent view of the valley. This 
place has at present, connection with Healdsburg 
by stage ; also with the Clear Lake region. There 
will, however, shortly be railroad communication via 
the road passing through Healdsburg, Santa Rosa, 
and Petaluma. Eight miles noi-th, on the TJkiah 
road, at the toll-gate, is a fine soda sj)ring, said to 
be better and stronger than the Napa. Another 
fine soda spring is found near the farm of Mr John 
Thompson, three miles south, and still another 
three miles east, near the line of the projected road 
to the Geysers. Twelve miles to the southwest is 



98 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

Skaggs' Si^rings. There is a good stage-road to 
Lakeport. Sixteen miles from Cloverdale, on the 
summit of the mountains, is a most magnificent 
view of Clear Lake. Sulphur creek, on which the 
Gej^sers are situated, empties into Eussian river at 
this place. The Geysers are twelve miles south- 
east, only accessible by a trail. This place is built 
upon a SjDanish grant, called after an Indian chief 
who still resides there : , Rincon de Mus^alacon. 
Gold and copper have been found in small quanti- 
ties in the vicinity, and mining for gold is still con- 
tinued. Cloverdale is in a very fertile region, pe- 
culiarly adapted to grape culture. There is excel- 
lent trout fishing, and abundant small game and 
deer in the xioimij. There are two good hotels. 
The Cloverdale hotel, Thomas S. Colvin, proprie- 
tor, is the principal house. Charges, $2.00 per 
day, $8.00 per week. Stages leave Cloverdale for 
Mendocino city on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sat- 
urdays, at 6 A. M., and starting at the same hour 
return on the alternate days. Distance, seventy- 
five miles; fare, $8.00. Proprietors, Jesse D. Carr 
& Co. The road sttirts out over a fine grade, and 
through beautiful scenery. The Boonvill^ post- 
office, in Anderson valley, is thirty-two miles. The 
valley is twenty miles long, heavily timbered on the 
south side with redwood, and on the north with 
oak. Following the Novarra river about twenty 
miles, the road leaves it, ascending the ridge of the 



MENDOCINO. 99 



Novan-a mountains, and thence tlirongli a dense 
forest of redwood, fir, and s]3iiice, to Novarra, 
which lies upon the ocean, ten miles south of Men- 
docino. The Novarra Hotel is a good house, kept 
by Jerome W. Moore, one of the owners of the 
stage line. "jFrom Novarra the road proceeds along 
the ocean a mile and a half to Salmon creek, a 
great point for the shipment of railroad ties. One 
mile further on, the Albion mills, owned by Mc- 
Pherson & Wetherbee, the first saw-mills in the 
State, employing two hundred men. Five miles 
further on is Little river, a town of about three 
hundred inhabitants, with a good harbor, and a 
shipping point for lumber; and two and a half 
miles further, the traveler finds himself at 

Mendocino. 

This is one of the largest towns in the county, 
containing seven hundred inhabitants. One news- 
paper is published here, weekly, the Indeijendent 
Dispatch. An immense lumber trade is carried on 
here with San Francisco, one hundred and thirt^^. 
two miles southward. From this point, the traveler 
can return, via Cloverdale, Lakeport, Calistoga and 
Vallejo; or via Healdsburg, Santa Rosa, Petaluma 
and Donahue, to San Francisco. 



BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 



Route via Sonoma Valley/. 

Besides the railroad route to Santa Eosa, stage lines 
connect with the steamer at Lakeville, and with the 
cars at Donahue, and at Napa City, J:wice a day, 
for Sonoma, from which place passengers are con- 
veyed by a daily line to Santa Eosa. Taking the 
cars at Vallejo, for Napa City, the traveler reaches 
Sonoma, twelve miles distant, in two hours. Fare, 
$1.00. If stopping at Napa over night, he will find 
the Napa Hotel, John S. Hogan, proprietor, an ex- 
cellent house, with ample accommodations. Leav- 
ing Napa Valley, he crosses Carneros and Haichica 
valleys, into the large valley of Sonoma. In the 
most beautiful part of the valley, and upon a creek 
of the same name, about three miles from the Em- 
barcadero at its mouth, and surrounded with or- 
chards and vineyards, he will reach the city of 

. Sonoma, 

The oldest town on the north side of the Bay of 
San Francisco. It was laid out in 1835, by Gene- 
ral Vallejo, as a Pueblo, by order of the Mexican 
Government. A missionar}' station (the last in the 
State) was established at this i^lace in 1820, biit 
shortly afterwards shared the general fate of all the 
Missions after the revolution of 1822, which liber- 
ated Mexico from Sp'inish domination. It lingered 
a short time after sc'cuiarization was decreed, but 



SONOMA. 



finally succumbed. The town was, at the time of 
the American conquest, one of the most important 
in the State, and while San Francisco was onty a 
heap of sandhills, figured as the Headquarters of 
the Northern Military Department of California. 
As a town, it has made little or no progress. In- 
deed, it may be regarded, in a business point of 
view, as stationary. It is just the same old Mexi- 
can town, in apj)earance, that it was in 1846. A 
few good buildings have been erected b}^ Ameri- 
cans, but as many adobe structures have gone to 
decay. The greatest portion of the old Mission 
building, a very extensive structure of adobe, cov- 
ered with red tiles, has disappeared, only one angle, 
which was used as a church, has been preserved by 
extensive repairs. 

The town consists, mainly, of one and two story 
adobe buildings, built around a plaza, in the old 
Spanish style. It has, however, a deep historic in- 
terest attached to it, from events w^hich transjDired 
here under Spanish and Mexican rule. It was here, 
too, that the ominous " Bear Flag " was first raised, 
and the first steps taken to inaugurate a new gov- 
ernment for California. It was also for a long time 
the station of a portion of Stevenson's California 
Regiment, and will always be visited by those who 
love to contemplate the old landmarks, which re- 
call the Past and its vivid contrast with the Present. 

The site of the town is one of the most beautiful 
6 



I02 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

in the State, being upon a level and fertile plain, at 
the foot of the j)icturesqiie Moyacamas mountains. 
In approaching the old " city " of Sonoma from any 
direction, the traveler is struck with the magnifi- 
cence of the surrounding scenery, and the fertility 
of the country. The soil seems specially adapted 
to fruit and grape culture. The number of vines 
now in cultivation, is about four millions, and Son- 
oma stands first among the wine-producing coun- 
ties of the State. Many of the brands produced 
are of high excellence, and growing constantly in 
popular appreciation. 

Half a mile east from the Plaza, at the foot of a 
hill, is a copious and beautiful s]3ring, near which a 
powerful Indian chief once made his residence. 
This spring, called by the Indians Gho-koo-yem, 
or " Spring in the hill-side," now sujiplies a fish- 
pond and fountain in the extensive and magnificent 
grounds of General Vallejo's residence. These 
grounds are well worth a visit. There are found 
every variety of grapes and fruit in great profusion; 
the orange and the olive growing side by side with 
the pear and the apple. Here, General Vallejo, 
now in his sixty-fourth year, reposes from the ardu- 
ous and useful labors of his past life, and enjoys 
the profound respect of a new generation. Gene- 
ral Vallejo J) rides himself upon being a native of 
California. Descended from the sangre azul of an 
old Castilian family, he was born in Monterey in 



SONOMA. 103 



1808, and, at an early age, distinguished himself by 
his intelligence and benevolent disposition. Even 
before the American occupation, he possessed a val- 
uable library, and a very brief conversation will 
show that he has made a diligent use of it. To the 
charm of great natural urbanity of manner he adds 
that of an extended acquaintance with the world 
and with general literature. Even while a Mexican 
official, he was ever favorable to the government of 
the United States, and it- was greatly owing to his 
influence that California became a State of the Union, 
instead of falling into the hands of England or 
France. Since the conquest, he has served in many 
honorable positions under our State Government, 
and in all acquitted himself with distinguished abili- 
ty. As a soldier, a statesman, and a polished gen- 
tleman, he commands, and universally receives, the 
respect of all. 

From Sonoma the traveler proceeds through So- 
noma and Guillicos valleys, sixteen miles, to Santa 
Rosa, the county seat. [For description of Santa 
Rosa, see page 93.] 



a 



I 



Tourist's Complete Guide 



San Francisco, Suburbs and Vicinity; 

With Special Trips and Short Excursions in and 

ABOUT THE CiTY. 



I. CITY PKOPER. 



Sketch op the City — Historical, Topographical, General 
Plan - - 111-122 

Approaches to the City — From tlie east, by boat; from 
the south, by rail; from the ocean, by steamship, 123-129 

Conveyances — Hacks, Coaches, Cars, Porters, Legal Eates, 
Caution, Baggage and Package ExjDress, - - 129-132 

Hotels — Grand, Occidental, Cosmopolitan, Lick House, 
Brooklyn, Kuss House, American Exchange, Morton 
House, International, Hotel Gailhard, "What Cheer, 
(males only), - ' 132-137 

Lodging Houses — Nucleus, Clarendon, . _ - 137 

Restaueants — Saulman's, Swain's, Job's, Martin's, Ler- 
mitte's, . . - 137-138 



io6 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

Baths — Fresh, Salt, Turkish, Kussian, Koman, Steam and 
Vapor, 138 

Places of Amusement — California, Metropolitan, Alham- 
bra, Maguire's, and Chinese Theatres; Museums, Melo- 2 
deons, Dance Halls, and Beer Cellars, - - . 138-140 

Hails — Piatt's, Union, Pacific, Mercantile Library, Me- 
chanic's Institute, Y. M. C. A., Mozart, Dashaway, 141-143 

Billiards, Bowling Saloons and Shooting Galleries, 143-144 

Gymnasiums— Olympic Club, Y. M. C. A., German Turn 
Verein, Skating Einks, Base Ball Ground, - 144-146 

Gardens — Woodward's, City, - - - - 146-156 
Menageries — Woodward's Zoological Grounds, North 
Beach, 156 

Squares and Parks — Plaza, (Portsmouth Square). Wash- 
ington Square, South Park, 157 

Promenades Montgomery Street, Kearny Street Califor- 
nia Street. Best Time, ----- 157-160 

Drives — Cliff House Koad, Ocean House Koad, Bay View, 
New Ocean Koad, Best Time, - - - - 161-164 

Libraries and Kbading Kooms — Mercantile, Mechanic's 
Institute, Odd Fellow's, Pioneers, Y. M. C. A., What 
Cheer, Woodward's Gardens, 154 

Public Buildings — Federal: Post Office, Custom House, 
Old Mint, Nev>^ Mint, Marine Hospital. City and County: 
Old City Hall, New City Hall, Jail, Almshouse, Indus- 
trial School, Engine Houses, Engines, Corporation and 
Society Buildings: Pioneer's, Merchant's Exchange, Bank 
of California, Mercantile Library Building, Mechanic's 
Institute, Masonic Temple, Odd Fellow's Hall, Y. M. C. A. 
Building, Mechanics' PaviHon, - - - 164-173 



SAA' FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 107 



Business Buildings and Blocks— Alta California Bnildiug, 
Bancroft's, Donolioe, Kelly & Co., Harpending's Block, 
Mnrpliy, Grant «fe Co., Tobin, Dixon & Davisson, Tread- 
well's, Tucker's, Wells, Fargo & C.'s Building, White * 
House, - - - 173-174 

Manufactoeies — Kimball Car and Carriage Factory, Paci- 
fic Eolling Mills, Mission Woolen Mills, Foundries and 
Iron Works, Locomotives, Boilers, Mining Machinery, 
Shot Tower and Lead Works, Sugar Kefinery, Glass 
Works, Ship Yards, ------ 175-177 

Chueches — Baptist, Congregational, Episcopal, Jewish, 
Methodist, Presbyterian, Roman Catholic, Sweden- 
borgian. Unitarian, Chinese Mission House, Mariner's 
Church, Old Mission Church, - - - - 177-183 

Hospitals and Asylums — City and County, French, Ger- 
man, Protestant Orphan, Eoman Catholic Orphan, 183-185 

Colleges — California Business University, City College, 
St. Ignatius', St. Mary's, Toland Medical, - 185-180 

School Buildings — Denman, Girl's High, Lincoln, Val- 
encia Street, 187-188 

Feinting, Lithographing, Binding, and Blank Book Manu- 
facturing EstabHshment, 188-190 

Peivate Residences — Davis', Eldridges, Laidley's, La- 
tham's, Bancroft's, Otis', Parrott's, Tallant's, Taylor's, 
Tobin's, --------- 190 

Points of Obseevation — Telegraph Hill, Russian Hill, 
Clay Street Hill, California Street Hill, Rincon Hill, 
Lone Mountain, Twin Peaks, Bernal Heights, U. S. 
Observatory. Views from each, - - . 190-199 



io8. BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

How TO Get About — Horse Car Lines, Eoutes, Distances, 
Times, Fares, Buggies, Carriages, Coaches and Saddle 
Horses; qualities of, and charges for. Hacks, with rates 
of hire, - 200-203 



II. SUBURBS AND VICINITY. 

Commencing at the foot of Market street, thence southward 
along or near the water front, continuing around the en- 
tire city and returning to the point of starting. Also, 
mentioning more distant points, visible to the spectator 
looking bej'ond the suburbs. 

Lumber Yards; AVharves and Merchant Fleet; California 
and Oregon S. S. Co.'s Wharves and Ships ; Black Dia- 
mond Coal Co.'s Pier; Rincon Point; IT. S. Marine Hos- 
pital ; P. M. S. S. Co.'s Piers, Docks, Sheds and Ships ; 
Gas Works : C. P. E. R. Co,'s Freight Pier, Depot and 
Boat ; Mission Bay; Mission Eock ; U. S. Ship Anchor- 
age ; Steamboat Reserves ; Long Bridge ; Yacht Club 
and Boat-house, with Yachts ; Potrero ; Glass Works ; 
Pacific Rolling Mill; Deep Cut; Islais Creek and Bridge; 
Eope Walk ; Italian Fishing Fleet and Flakes ; Celestial 
Ditto ; South San Francisco ; Catholic Orphan Asylum ; 
Hunter's Point ; Dry Dock ; Bay View Eace Course ; 
Visitacion Point and Valley ; San Bruno Eoad ; New 
Butchertown ; Ocean House Eoad ; Lake Honda ; Alms- 



SAjV FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 109 

house ; Small Pox Hospital ; Ocean House Eace Track ; 
Lake Merced ; Ocean House; Pacific Beach; SealKocks; 
Cliff House ; Farallones ; Point Lobos ; Signal Station ; 
Helmet Kock; Port Point ; Fort ; Light-House ; Golden 
Gate ; Lime Point ; Point Bonita ; Mountain Lake ; 
Lobos Creek : Presidio ; Barracks ; Parade Ground ; 
Black Point ; Pacific Woolen Mills ; North Beach ; An- 
gel Island ; Alcatraz ; North Point ; Sea V/all ; Ferries, 

204-212 



III. HOW TO SEE THE CITY. 

Under this head we suggest : 

Morning, or half-daj^ excursions, in and about the city and 

its suburbs. 

I. IN AND ABOUT THE CITY. 

1. Montgomery Street, Telegraph Hill, North Beach, 
Washington Square, The Piaza, City Hall, Kearny 
street, _----._.. 215 

2. Chinese Quarter, 216 

3. Third street. South Park, Long Bridge, Potrero, South 
San Francisco, Dry Dock, 218 

4. Water Front, (south), Stewart street, P. M. S. S. Co.'s 
Docks and Mammoth Steamships, Foundries, Factories, 
Shot Tower, 218 



no BA.VCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

5. Water Front, (nortli), Sea Wall, Nortli Point, Ware- 
houses and Clipi^ers, Iron Ships, Bay and Eiver Steam- 
boats and Docks, .-_----. 218 

6. Southwestern Suburbs, Mission street, Woodward's 
Gardens, Old Mission Church, Jewish Cemeteries, 
Woolen Mills, Howard street, 218 

7. Western Suburbs and Beyond Bush street. Laurel Hill, 
Lone Mountain Cemeteries, Cliff House Road, Eace 
Track, Cliff House, Seal rocks, Pacific Beach, Ocean 
House, Road Track, Lake Honda, New Ocean Road, 218 

8. Northwestern Suburbs and Beyond: Russian Hill, 
Spring Valley, Fort Point, Fortress, Lighthouse, Golden 
Gate, Presidio, Black Point, 219 



SAN FRANCISCO. 



Historical. 



The site of what is now the city of San Francis- 
co was first permanently occupied by white men, 
September 17, 1776. The same year witnessed the 
entrenchment of a garrison and the establishment 
of a Mission. 

San Francisco owes its origin to Catholic mis- 
sionaries and Spanish soldiers. Father Junipero 
Serra led the missionaries — and virtually command- 
ed the soldiers. The name San Francisco was 
given in honor of Saint Francisco of Asisis, a city 
of Italy, the founder of the order of Franciscans 
to which Father Junipero belonged. The presidio, 
garrison or fort, was founded first, Sept. 17, and 
the mission about three weeks later, Oct. 9th. The 
site first chosen was near a small lagoon back of, 
that is, west of, what is now called Eussian Hill, 
but the prevailing winds proved so high and bitter 
as to compel its early removal to the more shelter- 
ed sj^ot, over a mile south, under the lee of high 
hills, and near the present Mission Creek. Here, 



112 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

at the head of what is now Center or Sixteenth 
Street, the old church still stands. 

For nearly sixty j-ears the mission stood, the nu- 
cleus of a little village of rude adobe houses, ten- 
anted by a fluctuating population of Indians, 
Mexicans and Spanish — and the center of a mili- 
tary and religious authority, which upon more than 
one occasion made itself felt and feared for leagues 
around. The population rarely rose above four 
hundred and frequently fell to less than a hundred 
and fift}^ 

In 1835, Capt. W. A. Richardson put up the first 
pioneer dwelling, with rude wooden walls and sail- 
cloth roof. On the fourth of July of the next year, 
1836, Jacob P. Leese finished the first frame house. 
This house stood where the St. Francis Hotel now 
stands, — on the southwest corner of Clay and 
Dupont streets, a single block west of the pres- 
ent City Hall. Leese had his store on the beach, 
which was where Montgomery and Commercial 
streets now intersect. Nearly seven solid blocks 
of made-land now stretch between where that old 
beach lay and the present water front. Other 
houses soon rose near that of Leese, and presently 
the villagers saw their little settlement fast 
approaching the dignity of a new town, and 
cast about to find a name. Nature caused it to 
spring out of the ground for them in the form of 
a species of aromatic mint, which, surrounding their 



SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 113 

dwellings, perfuming the morning air and supply- 
ing frequent and varied medicinal needs, had 
proved indeed, as the Sj)aniards called it, " Yerba 
Buena," the Good Herb. So the herb named the 
town, and the name '' stuck, " as the Calif ornians 
say, for nearly a dozen years. During these years 
the houses grew in number, until 1847, when the 
town contained seventj-nine buildings, — thirty-one 
frame, twenty-six adobe, and the rest shanties — and 
these houses sheltered thj-ee hundred souls, or, at 
least, that number of bodies. On the 30th of Jan- 
uary of that 3^ear, these three hundred dropped the 
old name Yerba Buena, and adopted the older one, 
which had belonged to the neighboring mission for 
nearly fourscore years. Thus the town also became 
San Francisco, and has ever since so remained. 
The first steamboat aj)peared in the bay, Novem- 
ber 15th of the same year. In March, 1848, the 
houses had grown to two hundred, and the pox^ula- 
tion to eight hundred and fifty. On the third of 
the next month, the first public school began. 

New Year'e Day, '49, the new city claimed a pop- 
ulation of two thousand. Three days later the two 
previously published weekly ^^aj^ers merged into the 
Alta California, the earliest established of all news- 
papers now existing in the State. 

The early miners were making from twenty to 
thirty dollars a day, getting '/bags" of dust and 
''piles" of nuggets, and rushing down to "Frisco" 



114 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

to gamble it away. These were the " flush times " 
of the new city. Fresh eggs cost from seventy-five 
cents to one dollar apiece. For a beefsteak and a 
Clip of coffee for breakfast one had to pay a dollar 
and a half, and a dinner cost him from two to ten 
or even twent}^ dollars, according to appetite and 
drinketite. Rough labor brought the old Congres- 
sional pay of eight dollars a day; draymen earned 
twenty dollars a day; and family " helj) " could 
hardly be had for forty, or even fifty, dollars a week. 
The great mass of the men lived in tents. Yery few^ 
women had come, but those few were overwhelmed 
with attention; if one wished to cross the street in 
the rainy season, a score of brawny arms would fight 
for the privilege of gallantly wading through the 
sea of mud to carry her across the unpaved street. 

Great fires came, four of them; the first the day 
before Chistmas, '49 — it burned over a million dol- 
lars worth; the second, May 4th, '50 — it destroyed 
three millions dollars worth. A little over a month 
later, June 14th, 1850, the most destructive fire the 
city ever saw left it poorer by four millions of dol- 
lars; and on the 17th of the next September the 
fourth fire consumed another half million. Nearly 
nine million dollars worth bui'ned in less than nine 
months ! 

Business thrived immensely. In 1852, more than 
seven vessels a day arrived at or departed from San 
Francisco. Commerce overdid itself. Long piers 



SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 



ran out over the flats where now solid blocks of 
loft}^ buildings have stood for half a score of years. 
Sometimes storms kept back the clippers; then 
prices went still higher. Between March and 
November, flour went up from eight to forty dol- 
lars a barrel, while the ' ' Alta " came down from its 
usual broad and sightly page to the size of a pai^e 
of window-glass, fourteen by ten. Villainy flour- 
ished; drinking, gambling, robbery and murd^- - 
held high carnival; the law did little, and did thaw^ 
little shabbily and tardily; so the people woke and 
resumed their original legislative, judicial, and es- 
pecially their executive, functions. 

In '51 and '52, and again in '56, they came nobly 
to the front, hung the worst villains who defied the 
common law, frightened away the others, restored 
order, established security for honest men, and re- 
solved themselves again into law-abiding citizens. 
And thus, through perils of fire, social convulsions, 
and financial fluctuation, the cosmopolitan city has 
swept swiftly on until to-day, though ha\dng barely 
attaine'd her mtijority, she stands in the first half- 
score of American cities. Every year she leaves a 
city or two behind in her steady progress toward the 
throne of the continent which she will surely occupy 
before the present century has fully fled. 

Situation and Extent. 

In extent, population, colRimerce, wealth and 
growth, the San Francisco of to-day is not only the 



ii6 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

chief city of California, but tlie great commercial 
metro]3olis of the whole Pacific slope. It is both a 
city and a county; the county occupies the extreme 
end of a hilly peninsula stretching north to the 
Golden Gate, between the Pacific Ocean on the 
west, and San Francisco bay on the east. 

The whole peninsula has a length of from thirty- 
five to forty miles, with an average width of from 
twelve to fifteen miles. The average width of the 
county from bay to ocean is four and one half miles, 
and its extreme length, from the Golden Gate on 
the north, to the San Mateo County line on the south, 
is six miles and a half. Its boundary line bein^- the 
natural one of a coast or shore on the west, north 
and east, is more or less irregular; on the south it 
is straight. Its entire area is 26,681 acres, including 
the Presidio reservation of 1,500 acres, which belongs 
to the general government. 

The county also includes the Farallon Islands, 
lying nearly thirty miles west in the Pacific Ocean, 
with the islands of Alcatraz and Yerba Buena, or- 
Goat Island, in San Francisco bay. 

The city proper occupies the northeast corner of 
the county. Its limits extend about two miles and 
a half from east to west, by three and a half from 
north to south, thus including between one fifth and 
one sixth the area of the county. 

The natural surface was very uneven and the soil 
equally varied — sand beach, salt marsh, mud flats, 



SAN FRANCISCO AND VIQINITY. 117 

low plains, narrow ravines, small and shallow val- 
le3^s, elevated benches or plateaux, sandy knolls 
and dunes, and stretches of the close, adobe soil, 
made up its original surface; while rocky bluffs 
fortified its shore line, and extensive ledges under- 
laid its hills or cropped out from their sides, or 
crowned their tops. These hills varied in height 
from two hundred and sixty to four hundred and 
ten feet, Avliile west and south of the city limits 
they rose still higher. One or tw^o small lagoons lay 
sluggishly about, and as many small streams found 
their v^ay thence to the bay. 

The original founders of the city, as is usual in 
similar cases, seemed never to suspect that they 
Y/ere moulding the beginnings of a grand metropolis. 
Hence they laid out what little they did project with 
the least possible regard to present symmetry, or 
the probable demands of future growth. The 
natural inequalities of surface, the grade and width 
of streets which must become necessary to a large 
city, reservations for public buildings, promenades, 
gardens, parks, etc., with the sanitary necessity of 
thorough drainage, were matters of which they seem 
to have been serenely unconscious, or, worse still, 
sublimely indifferent. And many of their immediate 
successors in authority were legitimate descendants, 
or humbly imitative followers. 

We have not an important street in the city which 
conforms its course to the cardinal points of the 



ii8 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

compass, and but one main avenue, Market street, 
which begins to be wide enough. As Cronise tiiith- 
fuUy says: "The whole town stands askew." 

"We now proceed to "orient" the tourist, as 
Horace Mann used to say, in regard to such 
streets, avenues, thoroughfares, cuts, parks, etc., 
as mainly constitute the highlj^ artificial, though 
not particularly ornamental, toj)Ography of our 
little occidental village. 

General Plan. 

Market street is the widest and the longest, start- 
ing at the water front, half a mile east of the old 
City Hall, and slightly ascending through eight or 
nine blocks, it runs thence southwesterly on a 
nearly level grade beyond the city limits. Its west- 
ern end is yet unfinished. A mile and a half from 
the water it cuts through a moderately high and 
immoderately rock}" hill, beyond which it stretches 
away toward the unfenced freedom of the higher 
hills, and the dead level of the western beach 
beyond, at which it will probably condescend ulti- 
mately to stoj). Its surface presents every variety 
of natural conformation ingeniously varied with 
artificial distortion. Plank, rubble, McAdam, cob- 
ble, Nicolson, gravel. Stow foundation, gravel, 
adobe, sand, and finally undisguised dirt, offer their 
pleasing variety to the exploring eye. From two 
to four horse-railroad tracks diversify its surface 



SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 119 

witli their restful regularit}^ while the steam cars 
from San Jose follow their locomotive a short dis- 
tance up its western end. # 

Stately blocks, grand hotels, massive stores, lofty 
factories, tumble-down shanties, unoccupied lots 
and vacant sand-hills form its picturesque boundary 
on either hand. When the high summer w^inds 
sweep easterly down its broad avenue, laden with 
clouds of flying sand from vacant lots along its 
either margin, it becomes a decidedly open question 
whether the lots aforesaid really belong in the 
department of real estate, or should, properly enter 
the catalogue of ''movable property." 

We have dwelt thus at length upon this street, 
not only on account of its central position and 
suj)erior dimensions, but because it is a representa- 
tive street. Other are like it as far as they can be. 
They would resemble it still more closely, did 
length, width and direction permit. It is fast be- 
coming the great business street of the city, and, 
spite of the roughness and crudeness necessarily 
attaching to all the streets of a new and fast-grow- 
ing cit}^ it unmistakably possesses all the requisites 
of the futui-e "Grand Avenue" of the Pacific 
metropolis. 

On the northeast of Market street, through the 
older portion of the city, the streets run at right 
angles with each other, though neither at right an- 
gles or parallel with Market. One set runs, in straight 



120 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

lines, nearly north and soutli. The other set, also 
straight, crosses the former at right angles, that is, 
running nearl}^ e*st and west. The principal of 
these streets, as one goes from the baj^ westerly, back 
toward the hills, and, in fact, some distance up 
their slojDes, are Front, Batter}', Sansome, Mont- 
gomery, Kearny, Dupont, Stockton, Powell, Mason, 
Taylor, and a dozen others, of which those nearer 
the bay are gradual!}' growing into importance as 
business streets, especially along the more level 
portions of their southern blocks, near where they 
run into Market street. Beyond these, that is, west 
of them, the streets are chiefly occupied by dwell- 
ing houses, among which are many expensive resi- 
dences of the most modern construction and elegant 
design. 

Between Front street and the bay run two short- 
er streets, Davis and Drumm, along which, as well 
as upon the northern part of Front street, are sev- 
eral of the principal wharves, j)iers, docks and 
steamboat landings. 

At right angles with these streets, running back 
at an acute angle from Market street, and at a right 
angle with the water front as well as the streets al- 
ready named, are Geary, Post, Sutter, Bush, Pine, 
California, Sacramento, Clay, Washington, Jack- 
son, Pacific, Broadway, with a dozen or more others 
still further north, and a score or so south. 

Along the eastern blocks of these streets, that is, 
within five or six squares of the water, stand many 



SAN FRAA CISCO AND VICINITY. 



of the leading business houses, hotels, newspaper 
offices, etc. 

A sufficient variety of pavement diversifies the 
surface of all these streets — from the primitive, 
original and everlasting cobble, destroyer of quiet, 
destruction to wheels and death on horses, to the 
smooth-rolling Nicolson and the beautifully level 
Stow foundation, blessed bane of all the above 
abominations, and not a specially bad thing for the 
contractors. The sidewalks generally have a 
liberal breadth. They are commonly covered 
with plank, asphaltum or brick, and, near the cor- 
ners and in front of the numerous rum-holes, with 
gangs of bilks or crowds of loafers, who have only, 
as S^Tlne}^ Smith once said of a certain vestry in 
London, to lay their heads together to make a nrst- 
class wooden pavement. 

South of Market street, that is, in the newer and 
more rapidly growing j^ortion of the city, the streets 
were laid out under a new survey, and, of course, 
have an angle and direction of their own. One set 
runs parallel with Market, that is, nearly southwest 
and northeast. Their names, in receding order 
from Market, are Mission, Howard, Folsom, Har- 
rison, Bryant, Brannan, etc. These streets are 
generally wider than those of the older, northern 
part. Southeast of them are seven or eight paral- 
lel streets, gradually growing shorter as they come 
nearer the Mission Bay, ending in South street, less 



122 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

than a block and a half long, lying along the water 
front. The lower or eastern ends of nearly all these 
streets run down to piers and wharves, uj)on which 
are the leading lumber and coal j^ards of the city, 
the largest hay and grain barns and sheds, and the 
immense docks of the great Pacific Mail Steamship 
Company. Nearly two miles back from the water 
front all these streets "swing around the circle" 
far enough to bring them into an exactly north and 
south line, and creep southward down the peninsu- 
la, a block or two farther south every season. 

The streets running at right angles with Market 
street, beginning at the water front and reckoning 
back southwesterly, are named by their numbers, 
First, Second, etc., up to Thirtieth, and even be- 
yond. Between First street and the present water 
front, some six or seven blocks have been filled in 
and are occupied chiefly by gas works, lumber 
yards and large manufactories. The new streets 
thus formed are named, in receding order from 
First street, Fremont, Beale, Main, Spear, Stuart 
and East. To reduce blocks to miles, one has only 
to know that in the older part of the city the blocks, 
reckoning east and west, number twelve to the mile, 
including the streets between. From north to south 
they are shorter, numbering sixteen to the mile. 
South of Market street the blocks are about one 
seventh of a mile long from east to Avest, and one 
ninth of a mile wide. In both the older and newer 



SA.V FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 123 

13arts of the city, the regular standard blocks are 
frequently subdivided by one, and sometimes two, 
smaller streets, running through them each way. 
Near the city front, the first six blocks, reckoning- 
back from the water, have from one half to two 
thirds the standard size. Bearing these dimensions 
in mind, one can readily reduce blocks to miles, 
and calculate distance and time accordingly. 

Approaches to the City. 

From only one direction can the traveler ap- 
proach the city by land; that is, by coming up 
from the south, thi:ough San Jose and the inter- 
vening places. From every other direction one 
approaches by water. Between Sacramento and San 
Francisco there are two principal routes by rail. 
The first brings the tourist to Yallejo, sixty miles, 
and thence twenty-three miles by boat, making a 
total of eighty-three miles, over the shortest and 
quickest route. Time, four hours and a half, fare, 
$3.00. 

Approaching by this route, he comes down upon 
the city from the northeast. On the left, the San 
Pablo, Berkeley, Oakland and Alameda shores, ris- 
ing gently back into broad plains, whose further 
edges fringe the feet of the back-lying hills. Be- 
yond the hills. Mount Diablo. On the larboard 
bow, as the sailors say, that is, a little southwest, 
rises Goat Island, or Yerba Buena, three hundred 



124 BANCROFT'S TOURISTS GUIDE. 

and forty feet. This island looks/' very like a 
whale," and in outline seems a yery monster among 
leyiathans at that. 

Directly south the waters of the bay stretch so 
far that one can seldom discern the shore line, and 
may easily fancj^ himself looking out to sea in that 
direction. Further round to the right, that is, more 
westerly, he may catch a glimpse of Hunter's Point 
with the chimney and engine house of the Dry 
Dock. Nearer lies the Potrero, with the suburban 
city fast creeping up the sides, and crowning the 
summit of its rocky promontory. From the beach, 
at its nearest base, stretch out Jblie piers and rise 
the grim}^ buildings of the Pacific Rolling Mills. 
Still nearer you see the south end of the long- 
bridge, stretching southerly across Mission Bay, 
and connecting the Potrero with the city. In a 
line with the further end of this bridge, and a mile 
or more nearer, we have the piers and sheds of the 
Pacific Mail Steamship Company, with the immense 
ships of their China line, the largest wooden vessels 
afloat. The steep slope just to the right of them, 
on which jou see the upper stories of a large brick 
building, is Rincon Hill, and the building is the U.S. 
Marine Hospital. That monument^ as it seems, is 
the Shot Tower, while in front of, around and beyond 
it, you see the usual medley of ordinary city build- 
ings, here and there rising into single or double 
church sj^ires, broken by the bulk of some big busi- 



SAiV FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 125 

ness block, and relieved by the regular lines of in- 
tersecting streets. 

E-ight of Rincon Hill, where the city fills a broad 
hollow, 3^ou are looking over what was once the 
" Hapx^y Valley " of early times. In a line beyond 
it lies the Mission, which you cannot now discover, 
backed by the " Twin Peaks," and the high hills 
which form the back-bone of the peninsula. Still 
following around, the larger buildings of the older 
city meet the eye, gradually rising up the southern 
slope. Those singular minarets or mosque-like 
twin towers or spires, surmount the Jewish Syna- 
gogue. Here and there a church spire shoots above 
the roofs, but one sees fewer of them than in eastern 
cities of equal size, because the jDOssibility of earth- 
quakes, and the certainty of high winds, restrain 
architects and builders from attempting anything 
too lofty or exposed. Several of the finest churches 
in the city, spread out on the earth much more than 
they rise toward heaven. One reason may be that 
they do not own far in the latter dii'ection. 

North of the Synagogue towers, the hill still rises 
through three blocks, when it reaches its full height 
in California street hill. Then a slight depression 
in the hill-top outline, followed by another rise in- 
to the Clay street and "Washington street hill, two 
blocks north and three blocks west of the former. 

The higher hill still further north but nearer the 
front, is the famous land-mark and signal-station, 



126 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

Telegraph Hill, from whose top the long familiar 
observatoiy has but recently disappeared ; pros- 
trated on a storm}^ night last winter, by one of the 
giant winds whose fury it had so long defied. 

Beyond, or to the right of Telegraph hill, the 
city falls away to the northwest, and the bay shore 
also trends in that direction. Black Point, the 
Presidio, and finally Fort Point, bring us to the 
Golden Gate. 

Unfolding to empire its way, 

Wide opened by gold and by fate, 

Swung by tides which no nation can stay, 
Here standeth the continent's gate. 

Through the narrow Gate one has a single 
glimpse of the grand old sea, which stretches so 
peacefully away under the sunset. For northern 
gate-post you have Lime Point; and thence the 
vision rests on high hills j)acked in behind, and 
gradual^ lifting the gaze to Mount Tamalpais, be- 
yond whose sharply-cut summit, nothing of note 
attracts the sight. Between us and Tamalpais, four 
miles nearer and half a mile lower, close at the wa- 
ter's edge, we have the small but beautifully situ- 
ated town of Saucelito, with its sheltered picnic 
grounds and tranquil bay. Beyond the Saucelito 
bay you can almost see through Raccoon Sti-ait, 
and discover that the higher land nearer the boat 
is not a point, but an island. Its name is Angel 
Island. It is the largest and most valuable island 



SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 127 

• 

in the bay. The Goyernment owns it and occupies 
its southwestern side with barracks, garrison and 
parade grounds. Several batteries dot the shore 
at different points, and a military road around the 
island, connects them with the garrison. 

This other small island of solid rock, crowned 
with a heavy fortress and girt with forts and bat- 
teries, is Alcatraz, the Pacific Gibraltar. 

Instead of coming by way of Vallejo, the passen- 
ger from Sacramento may come by rail through 
Stockton, forty-eight miles; thence by rail to Oak- 
land, eighty-six miles; and thence by boat to San 
Francisco, four miles; making a total distance of 
one hundred and thirty-eight miles, all rail except 
the last four. Through fare, $2.50. 

By this route you approach the city on the east, 
and have only to change the point of sight from 
northeast to east, and remember that Goat Island 
will be seen close by on the right hand, that is, 
north of the boat, to make the description of the 
approach from Yallejo almost equally accurate and 
easily adaptable for the approach from Oakland, 
which is the direction from which the great major- 
ity ai^proach. 

Those who may prefer can have theii* choice of a 
third way from Sacramento, and a second from 
Stockton; that is by steamer, usually leaving each 
of those cities at noon, and due in San Francisco in 
eight hours. From Sacramento by water the dis- 



128 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

• 

tance is one hundred and twent^^-five miles, and the 
fare, $1.50 ; from Stockton, one hundred and twen- 
ty miles, fare, $1.50 ; dinner on board, $1.00; 
staterooms, $2.00, single berths, $1.00. These 
boats reach San Francisco so early one seldom 
needs a stateroom, except in case of illness, or a 
strong desire for seclusion. Both lines of steamers 
land at the same i^ier, at the foot of Broadway, from 
ten to twelve blocks from the leading first-class ho- 
tels. 

The only important route of approaching San 
Francisco, and riding into the city by land, lies on 
the south, coming from Gilroy, San Jose, Santa 
Clara, Redwood City, and intermediate places, in 
the cars of the Southern Pacific railroad. Coming in 
by this route, one traverses the fertile plains of the 
Santa Clara Valley, and skirts the foot-hills lying 
along the Avestern base of the almost mountains, 
which form the divide between the ba^^ slope and 
the ocean slope of the broad x3eninsula. Near Red- 
wood City, and for the succeeding fifteen miles, 
the track runs between fresh water fields on the 
west and salt water marsh upon the east. From 
the Twelve-Mile Farm in, we strike nearer the 
centre of the constantly narrowing joeninsula, and 
near San Miguel catch the first glimpse of the 
broad Pacific. The large building just west of the 
track is the Industrial School, our California House 
of Reformation. The southern suburbs of the city, 



SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 129 

through which we enter, present nothing remarka- 
ble beyond the usual medley of old shanties, broad 
vegetable gardens, pleasant, home-like cottages, 
and here and there the more pretentious suburban 
residence, increasing in number as we come nearer 
the centre. 

We come in by Valencia street, and reach the 
station upon Market, just east of its junction with 
Valencia. 

Ocean Approach. 

Besides the aj^proaches already mentioned, one 
may come in from Panama, Mexico, Oregon, the 
Sandwich Islands, Australia, Japan or China. From 
whichever he may come, for the last ten miles be- 
fore reaching the dock, his track will be the same. 
A few miles west of Fort Point, all these various 
ocean routes converge into one, enter San Francis- 
co Bay by the Golden Gate, and bear away south- 
ward until they intersect, and for a short distance 
coincide with, the approach from Vallejo, already 
briefly described. 

Conveyances. 

Hacks. — Approaching the wharf or the railroad 
station, you encounter the usual jargon of hotel and 
baggage runners, each shouting his hotel, hack or 
coach, as if strength of lungs was his chief stock in 
trade. It is but simj)le justice to San Francisco 
hackmen, however, to say that a more obliging. 



130 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

prompt, and courteous set, can liardly be found 
in any American cit}' of e<;j[ual size. That travelers 
may exactly understand for themselves the law 
regulating hacks and coaches, we quote order No. 
718, of the Board of Supervisors of the city and 
count}'- of San Francisco : 

Section 7. "For a hackney carriage drawn by 
more than one horse, for one person, not exceeding- 
one mile, $1.50, and for more than one j)erson, not 
exceeding one mile, $2.50; and for each additional 
mile, for each passenger, 50 cents. For a hackney 
carriage drawn by one horse, for one person, not 
exceeding one mile, $1.00 ; for more than one per- 
son, not exceeding one mile, $1.50; for each pas- 
senger, for each additional mile, 25 cents." 

Sec. 8. "From any landing of any steamboat, to 
any point east of the west line of Larkin street, and 
north of the south line of Brannan street, and east 
of Third street, shall, in all cases, be estimated not 
to exceed one mile. " 

In forty-nine cases out of fifty, no newly-arrived 
gentleman or lady will have any personal need to 
know the law; the foregoing is written mainly for 
the fiftieth. Bear in mind that these rates, like all 
fares and charges in the Golden State, are jDayable 
in gold or its equivalent coin; also, that they are the 
highest. Hackmen often carry for less. 

Coaches. — Besides the hacks, one may find hotel 
coaches, which carr}^ free to the hotel for which 



SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 



131 



tlie}^ run, or charge fifty cents for each passenger 
within the limits above specified. 

Cars. — The red cars of the City Front line pass 
the head of the dock every five minutes. These 
carry one to the very door of the '' Cosmopolitan/' 
and " Occidental " Hotels, within one block of the 
"Lick House," and two blocks of the "Grand 
Hotel." Directly across the street from the pier of 
the Sacramento and Stockton steamers, half a block 
from the landing for passengers by rail, and one 
block from the landing of those coming by Vallejo, 
the green cars of the Sutter street line carry 
one directly by the " Cosmopolitan," the " Lick 
House," and the "Occidental," and within half a 
block of the " Grand." On both these lines the 
rate is ten cents coin for. a single fare, or twenty- 
five cents for a coupon ticket good for four rides. 

Wagons. — At or near any landing, one can always 
find numbered express wagons, waiting to carry 
baggage for from 50 cents to $1.00, according to 
bulk, weight, or distance. 

PoRTEES. — Black, white and yellow, will seryeyou 
for " two bits, " that is 25 cents, for carrying any 
reasonable package within reasonable distance. It 
is well, however, to keep your ejQ on poi'ter and 
package. 

Baggage and Package Expresses. — Half an hour 
or more before reaching the city, either by car or 
boat, agents of the above companies will take your 
7 



132 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

checks and your money, give you a receipt for both, 
and deliver your baggage, for 25 cents for each or- 
dinary-sized trunk or valise, at am^ place within the 
single-fare limits already given. These are reliable 
and responsible com^^anies, whose agents none need 
fear to trust. They deliver baggage promptly and 
in as good condition as received. 

Hotels. 

The foreign tourist can witness to the great- lack 
of really fine hotels abroad. All England hardly 
furnishes a single hotel to rank with the best of our 
second-class hotels in America. Outside of Boston, 
New York, Philadelphia, Chicago, St. Louis, and 
Cincinnati, few, even of the northern cities, j)re- 
sent any notable hotel attractions to the temporary 
guest. New Orleans has a single good hotel, but 
hardly one of the other southern cities has yet out- 
grown the old-fashioned " tavern." 

In respect to these — in good hotels — by the imme- 
diate and unanimous verdict of every tourist, San 
Francisco stands preeminent. Nowhere on the con- 
tinent can the traveler find beds, tables and rooms 
superior to those of the " Grand," the "Occident- 
al," the^" Cosmopolitan," and the "Lick House." 
and in no large cit}^ of America wi'll he find as reas- 
onable charges, considering the amount and quality 
of accommodation and the style of service rendered. 

The usual standard rate at the four leading first- 



SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 133 

class houses, is $3.00 a day, for board and room. 
At the " Brooklyn," " Russ/' and "American Ex- 
change, " the rates are $2.00 to $2.50 a daj^, for 
good rooms and equally good board. 

The Grand Hotel. — This magnificent hotel is the 
newest of all. It stands on the south side of Market 
street, occupying the whole block from New Mont- 
gomery to Second street, and stretching southward 
along new. Montgomery, across Steyenson street to 
Jessie. Its north front is 205 feet, its west front 
335 feet, thus coyering oyer one acre and a half of 
ground. Its height is three stories, surmounted by 
a Mansard roof, containing a fourth. Its style of 
architecture may be called the " modern combina- 
tion," highly ornamented. In method of construc- 
tion, it is a complete frame building, surrounded by 
brick walls of unusual thickness. Its four hundred 
rooms include chambers, parlors and suits of the 
amplest dimensions and the richest furnishing. 
The halls, corridors and stairways are spacious and 
airy. Through all the halls, at interyals of eyei?y 
few feet, hang coils of fire-hose, each attached to 
full hydrants, and always ready for instant use. 
Bath-rooms and toilets abound. Barber-shop, bil- 
liard room, and the most elegantly frescoed bar- 
room upon the coast, occupy the most conyenient 
portions of the basement and first floor. An amply- 
supplied reading-room, with most luxurious chairs, 
inyites and detains all weary guests. Branch offi- 



134 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

ces of the leading telegraphs, postal delivery box, 
and all needed facilities for correspondence, are at 
hand. Hacks stand constantly at the three spa- 
cious entrances, and four leading lines of horse- 
cars mdiate thence to every portion of the city and 
suburbs. 

The dining-hall accommodates three hundred. 
Its tables are of moderate size, surrounded by 
plenty of room, loaded with abundant. " substan- 
tials," flanked with all the latest delicacies, and 
served in the most attentive manner. Breakfast 
rooms for private parties, and separate eating-rooms 
for servants and children, immediately adjoin the 
main dining-hall. A large and well-apj)ointed 
laundry promptly accommodates guests. 

If there's anything else imaginable in the whole 
list of first-class hotel accommodations, just mention 
it to your obliging host Johnson, or his courteous 
and efficient adjutant, Eidgeway, and it shall go 
hard but they will furnish it for you at once, if it is 
to be had within the limits of telegraph and ex- 
press. 

The Occidental. — This popular standard house 
stands upon the east side of Montgomery'; its west 
front occupies the whole block from Bush street 
to Sutter; stretches its north flank half a block 
down Bush street, while its south flank goes a hun- 
dred and sixty-seven feet down Sutter street. Ver- 
tically it rises six stories into the sunshine. Four 



SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 135 

hundred and twelve elegant single and double 
rooms, with numerous suits having ample bathing 
and other accommodations, besides ladies' parlors, 
dining-halls, billiard-hall, convenient offices, broad 
stairways, spacious halls, and roomy passages, 
make up this truly magnificent mammoth establish- 
ment. The carpets and furniture are of the most 
elegant and costly description. A large and beauti- 
fully-fitted patent safety elevator adjoins the grand 
staircase near the main hall, and reading-room at 
the Montgomery street entrance. 

Near the main entrance is a telegraph-office — 
hacks stand always in front, and four leading lines 
of horse-cars pass the three entrances. A newspaper 
and periodical stand, vs-ith post-office letter-box, 
complete the conveniences of the reading-room. 

The walls are braced with iron, and securely 
anchored, besides being connected across the build- 
ing by heavy iron ties on every story. Manager, 
Philip McShane. 

Cosmopolitan Hotel. — This w^orthy compeer of 
the two alread^^ described, occupies the southwest 
corner of Bush and Sansome streets. Cen- 
trally-located, elegantlj^-constructed, conveniently- 
arranged, and well-furnished, this house is one of the 
largest and newest first-class hotels. An extensive 
addition, including some scores of single and double 
rooms, richly furnished in the most modern style, 
sufficiently indicate its prosperity. Tubbs & Pat- 
ten, manaofers. 



136 BAXCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

Lic^ House. — West side of Montgomery, between 
Sutter and Post streets. Its east front occuj^ies 
tlie entire block between these two streets, and 
runs up between one and two hundred feet of eacb 
of them. Whilst this house is excellently finished 
and furnished throughout, it is especiall}^ cele- 
brated for its elegant dining-hall, which is probably 
more artistically-planned and exquisitely-finished 
than any public dining-hall in the world. Jno. M. 
Lawlor & Co., managers. 

Brooklyn Hotel. ^ — Next to the elegant hotels 
alread}' named, one may reckon the "Brooklj'n" — on 
Bush street, north side, between Montgomery and 
Sansome. This excellent house makes a specialt}^ 
of accommodating families, having an unusually 
large number of suits of rooms esjoecially designed 
for their comfort. Its rates are about tAvo thirds of 
those before mentioned. Hotel coaches convey all 
guests to the house free of charge. Messrs. Kelly 
& Wood, proprietors. 

Besides the "Brooklyn," the traveler not wishing 
to stop at any of the grander and dearer houses, 
may have his choice of the "Buss House," west side 
of Montgomery, from Sutter to Pine, Messrs. Pear- 
son & Seymour, proprietors; the "American Ex- 
change," Sansome street, west side, corner of Hal- 
leck, Timothy Sargent, pro^Drietor ; the "Morton 
House," formerly Orleans Hotel,. 117 Post street, 
south side, just above Kearny; and the " Interna- 



SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 137 

tional Hotel," Weygant & Partridge, 530-534 Jack- 
son street, north side, just below Kearny. 

European Plan. — One fond of this style, may 
suit himself at Gailhard's Hotel, Nos. 507 and 509 
Pine street, Pereira&Co., proprietors. "What 
Cheer House" — This famous hotel combines the 
lodging-house and restaurant under one roof, with 
a success of which no old Californian needs be told. 
Besides the usual reading-room, it has also an ex- 
tensive library and museum, free to all guests; R. 
B. Woodward, proprietor, 525-529 Sacramento 
street. 

Lodging Houses. 

Among these we name the " Nucleus" and the 
'' Clarendon" as equal to the best. The " Nucleus" 
stands on the southeast corner of Third and Mar- 
ket streets; David Stern, proprietor. The " Claren- 
don House," John M. Ward, manager, 574 Folsom 
street, northwest corner of Second, is new and 
central. 

Restaurants. 

Whether a man eats to live or lives to eat, he 
can readily suit himself here. At present rates, 
the traveler can get better food, greater varietj^, 
and more of it for the same money, than in any 
eastern city. Among the best restaurants, are 
Saulmann's, 520 California street, north side, be- 
tween Montgomerj^ and Kearny; Swain's Family 
Bakery and Restaurant, 636 Market, north side. 



138 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

between Montgomeiy and Kearny; Maiiin's, Com- 
mercial street; Job's, 327 Kearny; and Lermitte's 
Coffee Saloon, 530 Merchant street. 

Baths. 

The hotels usually furnish first-class facilities with- 
out the trouble of going out from under the roof. 
Should anyone, however, wish a more extended ap- 
plication of fresh or salt water, hot or cold, vapor 
or steam, Turkish, Russian or Roman, he has come 
to the ver}^ place where they have them even better 
than in their oiiginal countries. If j^ou doubt it, 
ask Bayard Taylor. 

Z'eile's Baths, at 527 Pacific street, north side, 
between Montgomer}^ and Kearnj^ furnish more 
natural facilities and improved artificial appliances 
for the scientific aj^plication of Russian, Turkish, 
and Roman baths, than any other establishment in 
Europe or America. The visitor will be surprised 
at the extent and completeness of every appoint- 
ment in Dr. Zeile's establishment. 

Places of Amusement. 

No matter how bus}^ you ma}^ be at home, 3'ou 
are liere for enjoyment. When evening comes you 
want a good lecture, concert or play. "We have 
them all — the first occasionally, the last two regu- 
larly. The newest, largest and finest play house 
is the 



SA^Y FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 139 

Califoenia Theater, on tlie north side of Bnsli 
street between Kearny and Diipont: Jolin McCul- 
lougli, lessee and manager. If there's a good play 
in the city, we generally find it here; if there are 
comfortable chairs and luxurious boxes anywhere, 
they are certainly here; and if there's an artist of 
good taste and a successful manager combined in 
one man, his name is John McCullough. The the- 
ater is new and spacious, having comfortable seats 
for over three thousand, one of the largest stages 
in the United States, with complete mechanical ap- 
pliances, and finely -joainted scenery and drop- 
curtain. 

Metropolitan Theater. — Montgomery street, north 
side, betweenWashington and Jackson. Occasion- 
ally occupied for transient engagements, often pre- 
senting excellent plays. Has fine acoustic proper- 
ties; seats two thousand. 

Alhambra, 325 Bush street. This is a snug and 
tasty combination of theater, minstrels and opera 
house, usually presenting some popular and S23icy 
blending of wit, art and song. 

Maguire's Opera House. — Washington street, 
north side, between Montgomery and Kearny; 
Thomas Maguire, proprietor. This is the famous 
old theater in which Forrest, Kean and Booth de- 
lighted the California audiences of earlier days. 

Chinese Theater. — At No. 630 Jackson street the 
curious visitor may witness the most curious medley 



I40 B.-LVCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUJDE. 

ever put upon a stage and called a play. An inter- 
minable and unintelligible jargon of ding-dong, 
clatter-clattter, turn -turn and rattle-rattle-rattle com- 
bined with falsetto screeches, wonderful gymnas- 
tics, graceful contortions, terrific sword combats, 
and strange old oriental masqueradings, is what you 
may see in the celestial play house. Half an hour 
of it will fully satisfy you; but every eastern visitor 
must needs endure at least so much. 

Museums — "Woodward's. — At "Woodward's Gar- 
dens, Mission street, between Thirteenth and Four- 
teenth. This contains over ten thousand specimens 
of zoology, ornithology, Indian relics, alcoholic col- 
lections, natural curiosities, ancient coins, etc., be- 
sides a beautifully arranged and finely lighted^ art 
gallery, including several rare old pictures, and a 
sort of floral museum in the shape of a charming 
conservatory, wherein fragrance vies with beauty to 
delight and detain. 

Melodeons, Dance Halls, Beer Cellars. — We 
hardly anticipate that the average tourist will care 
to be " guided" into places under this heading, but 
the ^philosophic student of human nature, as well as 
the curious observer of social customs, cannot con- 
sider his knowledge of any city comj)lete until he 
has personally seen and actually known, not onl}' 
the highest, but the lowest, amusements extensively 
patronized by its peoj^le. Like all other large cities, 
San Francisco has its share of low haunts in which 



SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 141 

realty modest, and sometimes meritorious, perform- 
ances blend with a much larger proportion of im- 
modest, meretricious and disgraceful ones. 

HaUs. 

Platt's Haxl. — 216 Montgomery, east side, just 
north of Bush street, is one of the most popular in 
the city. Popular concerts, literary lectures, reli- 
gious anniversaries, educational celebrations, magi- 
cal entertainments, military balls and social dances, 
succeed each other so rapidly that there are few 
nights, especially in the pleasure season, when 
Piatt's Hall does not offer something worth going 
to see. Henry B. Piatt, proprietor. 

Union Hall.— South side of Howard, near Third. 
This is the largest permanent hall in the city, and 
a grand place for unusually large social parties, ex- 
hibitions, political conventions and pojjular mass 
meetings. It easily accommodates upwards of 
three thousand. 

Pacific Hall. — In the California Theater build- 
ing, north side of Bush, just above Kearny. This 
is a centrally-located, tastefully-finished double 
hall, that is, two connected so as to be used singly 
or jointly according to need. Capacity, fifteen 
hundred. 

Mercantile Library Hall. — In the basement of 
the Mercantile Library Association Building, north 
side of Bush street, between Montgomeiy and San- 



142 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

some. Elegantly fiuislied in pure white, with 
j)aneled and ornamented walls and ceilings. Ac- 
commodates eight hundred. The closeness of the 
neighboring buildings gives it a bad light by day, 
but no hall in the city lights uj) more brilliantly at 
night. 

Mechanics' Institute Hall. — Upon the lower 
floor of the building of that association, south side 
of Post street, between Montgomery and Kearny. 
This is another newly-constructad, conveniently- 
planned, well-furnished and centrally-located hall, 
with a medium capacity of about six hundred. 

Y. M. C. A. Hall. — Young Men's Christian Asso- 
ciation building, north side of Sutter, just west of 
Kearny. A remarkably neat, well-proportioned, 
lofty and well- ventilated hall, having its caj)acity 
largely increased by a conveniently-sloj^ing galleiy 
stretching across the whole of one side, and throw- 
ing forward its flanks at either end. Capacity, six 
hundred and fifty. 

Dashaway Hall. — Dashaway Society's building, 
south side of Post, between Kearny and Dupont. 
This singular name belongs to the pioneer temper- 
ance organization of the Pacific coast. Its origin 
can hardly be better stated than in the brief sen- 
tences of Tuthill, in his History of California: " A 
company of firemen, Howard No. 3, sitting in theii" 
engine house late at night, January 1st, 1859, cele- 
brating New Year's after the custom of the country. 



SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 143 

fell to musing over tlieir future j^rospects, and were 
vouclisafed a vision of their probable fate. At last 
they solemnly agreed to discontinue the use of in- 
toxicating liquor, or, as they phrased it, to " da^h 
away the cup." They accordingly^ organized a tem- 
perance society of " Dashaways," with Frank E. R. 
Whitney, chief engineer of the fire department of 
San Francisco, as' their first President, pledging 
themselves to drink nothing intoxicating for five 
and one half months. They kept their promise, 
and liked it so well that, before reaching the limit 
of their self-imposed i)ledge, they renewed it for 
all time." Thus began the first temperance society 
of California, which has enrolled thousands of 
names, erected a fine building, founded a large 
library, and maintains weekly lectures to this day. 
In a country where Avinfe is fast becoming a chief 
production, and whose greatest present danger is the 
social glass, the origin, eftbrts and success of the 
pioneer temperance organization merit more than 
passing notice. 

Bn^LiARDs. — Tournaments and champions of this 
king of in-door games compel brief mention of this 
popular amusement and the places where one may 
best enjoy it. Every leading hotel has a fine bil- 
liard room attached ; those of the four first named 
are palatial in the elegance and richness of their 
finish and furniture. 

Bowling Saloons and Shooting Galleries. — We 



144 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

set these togetlier, not because of any particular 
affinity between the two, but because the city has 
hardly enough of either to make an item of one 
alone. At the southwest corner of Montgomery 
and Pine, the enthusiastic bowler may probably 
find as many pins as he can prostrate, with attend- 
ants who can set them up as fast as he can knock 
them down ; while at 913 Kearny street, he can 
keep up his practice, if already an ex23ert, or "get 
his hand in," if a novice, at 

" Shooting folly as she flies," 
Those wishing the longer range for rifle practice, 
find it at Hermann's, near the Presidio, that is, on 
one's way to Fort Point. 

Gymnasiums. 

Although nominally a christian land, California 
has yet many sturdy "musclemen" within her bor- 
ders, while her larger cities have several schools of 
various kinds, for the training of young disciples 
in " muscular Christianity. 

Chief among these in San Francisco, stands the 
Olympic Club, the largest physical culture club in 
the State. Founded in 1860, during its eleven 
years of ceaseless and increasing activit}^, over five 
thousand persons have availed themselves of its ad- 
mirable facilities for acquiring or perfecting one's 
ability to "travel on his muscle." It is by no 
means an association of boys, or of young men 



SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 145 

only ; some of the best known gray-beard pioneers, 
with many of the leading merchants and profession- 
al men, have enthusiastically enjoyed their daily 
"play-spell" within its walls for many years, and 
they do it still. At 35 Sutter street, south side, 
just below Montgomery, one may find their spa- 
-cious and lofty hall, amply supplied with all the 
paraphernalia of modern gymnastics, and adorned 
with several large j^aintings in oil, by prominent 
artists who are also Olympics, besides the photo- 
graphs of past and present leading members. 

The San Francisco Turn-verein have their hall 
and rooms on the north side of O'Farrell, between 
Mason and T^iylor. Organized in 1852, it is the 
oldest association in the State, owns its premises, 
and has an actual present membership of nearly six 
hundred. It is,, of course, conducted upon the 
German plan. 

Y. M. C, A. — Those who want a roll at the pins 
upon strictly orthodox j^rinciples, or to punch each 
other's heads under the sanction of Christianity, 
can escaj)e, or at least modify, the censure of their 
uncharitable spiritual superiors, by resorting to the 
very neat and comfortable gymnasium in the base- 
ment of the Young Men's Christian Association 
Building, already described. This has the great 
advantage and the unquestionable attraction of 
providing for ladies also. It has all the necessary 
conveniences of bath-rooms and dressing-rooms at- 
tached. 



146 BANCROFT'S TOURISTS GUIDE. 

Skating Rinks. — Mercury, the fleet messenger of 
the gods, is fabled to have had xoing8 upon his feet. 
Forbidden by gravity to emulate him, our modern 
skaters fasten ivheels to their feet, and make up for 
their inability to fly by developing their power to 
skate. The immense floor. of the Mechanics' Insti- 
tute Mammoth Pavilion, on the west side of Stock- 
ton, between Post and Geary, affords the largest 
and smoothest rink to be found in the union. Two 
or three others exist in the city, besides the very 
large and fine new one in the j^avilion at AYood- 
ward's Gardens. 

Base-Ball and Cricket Grounds. — At the south- 
east corner of Folsom and Twenty-fifth streets, an 
entire block, inclosed by a high fence, leveled to 
the necessary smoothness and overlooked by sev- 
eral hundred well-sheltered sjDCctators' seats, fur- 
nishes fine accommodations for match games of 
base-ball and cricket. Here the famous Red 
Stockings, of Cincinnati, won fresh laurels, and 
the officers and crew of H. B. M. ship Zealous, 
played the crack cricket clubs of the State. 

Parks and Gardens. 

woodward's gardens 
Are on the west side of Mission street, between 
Thirteenth and Fourteenth. This famous resort is 
both park and garden, and much more besides. Its 
fences inclose nearty six acres, but its actual surface 



SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 147 

consiclerabl}^ surpasses that area, from the fact that 
the hill-slopes and terraces, with the various j^oors 
and galleries of the different buildings really double 
or even treble the original surface beneath, so that, 
if spread upon one level, they would cover thousands 
of square feet more. They thus rival any public 
square in size and far sur^^ass it in variety and 
beaut}'. 

We reach them, by the red cars of the City Rail- 
road Compan}^ leaving the west front of the Grand 
Hotel, at the junction of New Montgomery Avenue 
and Market street, every five minutes — fare five 
cents. Or we may go out by either the Market 
street, Howard street, or Folsom street cars. The 
first of these carry us within a little over a block of 
the entrance — fare, five cents; the second wdthin a 
block, and the third within two blocks. Fare on 
the last two, ten cents for a single ride, or four 
tickets for a quarter. On sunny da^^s and holiday 
afternoons the City Eailroad runs large, open-sided 
excursion or picnic cars, n'ewly constructed ex- 
pressly to be run to and from the Gardens. The 
entrance is upon the west side of Mission, be- 
tween Thirteenth and Fourteenth, through an 
elegant architectural gateway, or sort of facade, 
surmounted by four colossal statues, or carved 
figures. The two central figiu'es resemble a com- 
bination of Minerva and the Goddess of Liberty; 
one might not go far wrong in letting them stand for 



148 BAXCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

California and Oregon. The one upon either flank is 
a notably well-carved grizzly; larger than life and 
twice as natural, sitting erect upon his haunches, 
supporting a flag-staff with his fore paws, and with 
mouth slightly opened in an amiable grin of undis- 
guised pleasure at the prominence of his elevated 
position, and of welcome to the visiting thousands 
who constantly deposit their quarters and dimes 
beneath his sentinel post. 

Arrived within we seem to have suddenh^ left the 
windy city and dusty streets far behind. Grassy 
lawns surround beautiful gardens. Every variety 
of flowery vine and blossoming shrub alternates 
with rare trees interspersed here and there with 
artificial clumj)s of imported trees, or stretching 
along the border of the original grove native to the 
spot, while gravel walks wind among thje whole. Im- 
mediately upon the right of the entrance, in the 
gate-keeper's building, is a library of nearly two 
thousand standard volumes, many of them rare and 
costly. Directly in front of the gateway, stands 
the 

MUSEUM, 

formerly Mr. Woodward's private residence — at 
present occupied b}" a miscellaneous museum of 
natural and artificial Avonders, beasts, birds, fishes 
and shells, with an occasional freak of nature in 
the shape of a mammoth or a dwarf, or a still 
more startling preservation of some double-headed 



SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 149 

or six-legged specimens. The zoologist or oruitliol- 
ogist would scarcely get beyond this building the 
first day. Left of the Museum stands the 

CONSEKVATORY. 

This is the princix^al one of five flower and plant 
houses, having an aggregate length of three hun- 
dred feet by one tenth that width. This is a really 
elegant ciystal palace in miniature, filled with the 
beauty and fragrance of the rarest exotics. Through 
this one may j)ass directly to the 

ART GALLERY. 

The vestibule or ante-room of the Art Gallery is 
in fact another museum, containing two statues, an 
extensive collection of birds and bull's eggs; up- 
wards of a thousand coins of all ages and nations, 
curious idols and weapons, with hundreds of other 
curiosities helpfully classified, and the whole en- 
closed in an ante-room elegantly proportioned and 
beautifully frescoed by Poldeman, in imitation of 
Pompeii. Thence we enter the Art Gallery proper, 
lighted from above — frescoed bj^ the same artist — 
decorated, in the corners, with allegorical represen- 
tations of Painting, Sculpture, Music and Architect- 
ure — while over the door hang the two celebrated 
bas-reliefs, "Night" and "Morning," by Thor- 
waldsen. Niches on each side contain busts of 
Schiller, Goethe, Tasso and Petrarch. Over sixty 
rare old paintings or faithful copies cover the walls. 



150 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

Eapliael and Salvator Rosa a^^x^ear in beautiful 
coj)ies; several gems from the best Dutch masters 
furnish a transition to the modern school, of 
which one or two pictures from Bierstadt, and two 
or three views of California scenerj^ by Yirgil Wil- 
liams, stand as pleasing types. 

Leaving the Art Galler}^ by another exit, we 
stand upon the margin of a lovely little lake, around 
whose centre revolves* the great attraction for the 
young folks, and no small novelty to most adult 
visitors, the famous 

ROTARY BOAT. 

This endless craft is a huge circular vessel, rigged 
with fore and aft sails, and seating a hundred i^eo- 
ple, who step in from the concave landing upon one 
side as the radial seats successively come up. It 
would puzzle the " cutest" old salt to find bow or 
stern to this curious craft; the shrewdest country- 
men have to confess that they " can't make head 
nor tail out of the thing," while the enjoyment 
which the j^oungsters find in it, like the boat itself, 
never comes to an end. 

Between the lake and the conservatory, an out- 
door 

GYMNASIUM, 

with ladders, bars, rings, swings and climbing- 
poles, accommodates all who may wish to recreate 
the body. From the lake flows a little stream, 



SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITV., 151 

along whose banks the pelican, the crane, the alba- 
tross, the wild goose and the common gull, pom- 
pously stalk or awkwardly waddle; while in its 
water, two or three beavers, a i)air of minks and a 
seal or two, make their homes. Beyond this, the 

HENNERY, 

in which the admirer of fine poultiy may see a large 
variety of the choicest stock. An adjoining in- 
closure j^resents a pair of ostriches, and another 
has two Or three beautiful deer and fawn. Near 
the southwest corner of the garden, the 

TUNNEL 

carries the visitor through a heavily-tirabered, se- 
curely planked, cleanly-kept and well-lighted pas- 
sage under Fourteenth street, into the 

ZOOLOGICAL GEOUNDS 

and the amphitheater. Here, ranged along the 
north side, backed by a high and tight fence, and 
fronting the south that they may have the warmest 
possible exposure, are the animals of the menagerie. 
Royal Bengal Tigers, Rocky Mountain Grizzlies, 
Mexican Panthers, and South American Jaguars, 
Australian Kangaroos, and a curious medley of 
dissimilar animals known as the "Ha^Dpy Family,'* 
make uj) the caged collection. The cages are 
roomy, airy, cleanly and secure. The animals are 
remarkably fine specimens, kept in capital condi- 



152 .BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

tion, and the keeper is intelligent and courteous. 
Beyond the great cages is another range of small- 
er ones, containing black and cinnamon bears, fox- 
es, badgers, raccoons, opossums, and mischievous 
monkey's of all sizes. Esquimaux dogs, Siberian 
reindeer and Euroi^ean elk, with many other ani- 
mals, more than we have space even to catalogue, 
make up a collection of animated nature sufficient 
to stock half a dozen ordinary traveling shows, and 
still leave enough on hand to surpass any of them. 
Besides these, sjoacious inclosures allow Arabian 
and Bactrian camels a free j)romenade, while still 
be^^ond, another yard is tenanted by the shaggiest, 
sleef)iest-;^ooking, most patient and good-natured 
donkeys that ever allowed a gang of roistering 
3^oungsters to j)ack themselves upon their backs, 
only to be incontinently and ignominously i^itched 
over their heads into a promiscuous i)ile of dust- 
covered and disgusted juvenile humanit3\ At the 
extreme end of the Zoological Grounds the inclos- 
ure on the right contains a genuine Eocky Mountain 
Buffalo, while in the larger one upon the left, two 
or three reindeer contentedly browse. 

AMPHITHEATER. 

In the center of the zoological grounds, a large 
race-course, securely inclosed between inner and 
outer circular fences, affords free scope for Koman 
Chariot races, hurdle races, foot races, and eques- 



SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 153 

triaii performances generall3^ Within tlie inner 
fence, a level circle of some eiglity feet diameter, ac- 
commodates acrobatic performers ; while a lofty pole, 
rising from its center, furnishes ambitious young- 
sters all needed facilities for flying swings or skillful 
*' shinning." Around this stadium are raised seats 
for three thousand, with a covered portion shelter- 
ing six hundred, not to mention standing room for 
ten thousand more. 

Eeturning through the tunnel we turn to the 
left, ascend the hill and enter the 

PAVILION. 

This is the largest and strongest permanent 
wooden building upon the coast. It has the form 
of a parallelogram with the corners unequally cut 
off, thus giving its ground outline the shape of an 
irregular octagon. It is one hundred and fifty feet 
long, by one hundred and thirty wide and fifty 
high, surmounted by a water-tight roof, nearly an 
acre and a half in extent. ■ Half a dozen broad en- 
trances admit us to the spacious interior. Here we 
have a central floor; one hundred and ten feet long- 
by ninety feet wide, as solidly laid, perfectly fitted 
and smoothly planed as art could make it, and 
furnishing the finest 

SKATING KINK 

imaginable, or the most caj^acious ball-room floor 
to be desired. Around this floor, a sort of dress- 



154 



BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 



circle, fitted witli easy seats, separated by broad 
aisles and roomy spaces, rises gradually back to tlie 
surrounding wall. This dress-circle accommodates 
three thousand spectators. Above it is a broad 
gallery of equal size,. similarly fitted and holding as 
many. The gallery windows command a fine view 
of the underlying gardens, the meandering walks, the 
lake, the conservatories, shrubbery and the muse- 
um ; of the zoological grounds and amphitheater 
further away, and of the southwestern suburbs, 
bounded b}^ the Mission hills, bej^ond. This pa- 
vilion has a seating ca^oacity of six thousand, while 
for any brief mass-meeting, four thousand more 
could easily stand in the nine thousand nine hun- 
dred square feet of space upon the floor. A com- 
modious and conveniently located music, or speak- 
er's stand, with broad stairways between dress-circle 
and gallery, complete the appointments of this 
mammoth building, whose workman-like finish and 
enormous strength, fully equal its huge size and 
immense capacity. Just west of the pavilion stands 
a picturesque little 

TUEKISH MOSQUE, 

whose exterior faithfully reproduces the oriental 
original. Its interior is tastefully frescoed, while 
its domed ceiling presents an astronomical fresco, 
representing the starry heavens. Near the south- 
east corner of the pavilion is the 



SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 155 

RESTAUEANT, 

BO that one need not leave the grounds, should he 
find occasion to fill his stomach before he has suf- 
ficiently' feasted his eyes. Between the restaurant 
and the mosque, occupying the highest point of 
the hill, stands 

THE OBSERVATORY, 

formed by a secure railing and comfortable seats 
inclosing and surrounding the circular top of a 
huge reservoir, or tank. Until the recent erection 
of the pavilioji, this was the best point of view from 
which to study the plan of the grounds and. enjoy 
their scenery; and even now, it well rewards ascent, 
especially for those who hardly care to climb into 
the pavilion gallery. 

In various snug places among and under the 
trees, and, in some places, surrounding their trunks, 
are scattered scores of 

LUNCH TABLES, 

as a sort of out-post or picket-guard thrown out by 
the restaurant proper. All about the top of the 
pavilion hill, and for some distance down its sides, 
these tables, of all shapes and sizes, round, ring- 
shaped, triangular, oqtagonal, square, and "par- 
allelogramical," and surrounded by an abundance 
of comfortable seats, occupy the most romantic sit- 
uations. Descending the hill-sloj)e by a winding 
l^ath, we pass a broad lawn upon the left, on which 
8 



156 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

tlie enterprising proprietor j^roposes tlie early erec- 
tion of a large, conveniently-arranged fire-proof 
museum, for the better security of liis valuable 
collections and cabinets. 

We have now completed the general tour of this 
elegant park, with its delightful combination of the 
beautiful in nature and the wonderful in art, with 
the rarest curiosities of both. As a broad and airy 
holiday play-ground for tired pupils, as a romantic 
retreat for family picnics, as a pleasure-j^ark for the 
quiet promenades of old and young, as a vaiied 
field of study for the naturalist, as one of the lungs 
through which the tired and dusty city may draw a 
cool, refreshing, healthful breath, and, finally, as a 
grand union of park, garden, conservatory, muse- 
um, gymnasium, zoological grounds and art gal- 
lery, no eastern city offers the equal of Woodward's 
Gardens. 

City Gardens. 

On the south side of Twelfth street, stretching 
from Folsom to Harrison, and running half a 
block south. Entrance on the corner of Folsom 
and Twelfth. Beached most directly by the Fol- 
som street cars. Admission, 25 cts. 

Menageries. 

The finest in the city is that already described in 
the zoological department of Woodward's Gardens. 



^•^.V FRANCISCO AND VICINIl V: 



Tlie only other is a small collection of bears, 
monkeys and birds at North Beach. 

Squares and Parks, 

The oldest and best finished public square is 
Portsmouth Square, commonly called the Plaza, on 
the west side of Kearny street, extending from 
Clay street to Washington street, and directly front- 
ing the old City Hall. Besides these are Washing- 
ton, Union, Columbia, Lobos, Alcatraz, Lafayette, 
Jefferson, Alta, Hamilton and Alamo Squares, with 
Yerba Buena, Buena Yista and Golden Gate Parks. 
The last named covers nearly 1,200 acres, (of sand 
at present.) Of these, the Plaza and Washington 
Square are the principal ones which have been suf- 
ficiently imj^roved to merit even passing notice. 
To these one may add South Park, a small but 
elegant private inclosure occupying the centre of 
the block between Bryant and Brannan streets. 

Promenades. 

Montgomery Steeet. — This is the San Francisco 
Broadway. Flanked on either side by many of 
the largest and finest retail business houses, as well 
as two of the leading hotels. During the fore- 
noon business monopolizes it almost exclusively; 
afternoons fashion claims its sidewalks, and well- 
nigh crowds business, not exactly to the wall, but 
rather upon the curbstone, if not fairly into the 



158 HANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

gutter. From three to five p. m. the tide of- mara- 
mon hegius to ebb, and that of fashion svvells in at 
full flood. Fail- women and frail, beauty and 
ughness — calicoes, silks, satins, velvets, broad- 
cloths, beavers and cashmere, make uj) the motley 
throng, sv/aying and trailing up and down the 
crowded thoroughfare . The faces are veiy fair, ' ' as 
far as we can see," and the forms equall}^ graceful, 
with the same limitation. 

Masculine faces, broad-browed, clear-eyed, bronze- 
cheeked, firm -mouthed or full-bearded, impress one 
with the dash, the drive and the nerve which have 
spanned the continent with rails and bridged the 
Pacific with ships, ere yet the flush of full manhood 
has fairly settled upon them. Too many, it is true, 
show the full, uncertain lip, the flushed cheek and 
dewy eye that tell of excessive stimulus too fre- 
quently applied. Nowhere on earth is the temj^ta- 
tion to drink stronger than here. Business is 
sharp, competition brisk, and the climate the most 
stimulating anywhere to be found. So they drive 
till nature falters or weakens and calls for rest. 
But rest they cannot or will not afford ; the stimu- 
lus is quicker, it is everywhere close at hand — it 
seems to save time. Business men die suddenly ; 
on the street to-day, at Laurel Hill to-morrow; 
heart disease, apoplexy, congestion of the lungs, or 
liver complaint, are among the causes most fre- 
quently assigned to the inquiring public. The 



SAiV FRAA CISCO AND VICINITY. 159 

causes of these causes, few stop to ask, or dare to 
tell. 

Kearny Street. — Parallel with Montgomery and 
but a single block above, that is, west of it, runs 
the rival, if not already the equal, business and 
pleasure avenue, Kearny street. Though some sin- 
gle buildings on Montgomery may be finer, the av- 
erage of the business blocks along Kearny street 
already equals, if it does not surpass that of its 
rival. The street itself is broader, the sidewalks 
wider, while the press of vehicles and the throngs 
of fashion are fully equal. 

California Street. — At right angles with both 
these streets, and intersecting them near their cen- 
tre, California street, the Wall street of San Fran- 
cisco, runs straight down from one of- the highest 
summits within the city limits, to withjn two blocks 
of the water front, and there debouches into Mar- 
ket. Its upper portion lies between elegant private 
residences ; half way down the slope stand two of 
the leading city churches ; below, the Alia office, 
and leading telegraph offices ; thence from Mont- 
gomery down, the finest number of business blocks 
the city presents. On this street below Montgom- 
ery, the Bank of California, the Merchants' Ex- 
change, the Pacific Insurance Company's Building, 
Hayward's, Duncan's, and Wormser's, with other 
blocks and buildings, present a continuous front of 
architectural beauty rarely equaled. 



i6o BANCROFT'S TOURISTS GUIDE. 

Market Street. — This broad, dividing avenue 
which separates the older city from the nev^er, 
offers a rare architectural medley to the exploring 
tourist's eye. Some of the grandest business blocks 
on the Pacific slope tower up between or stand 
squarely opposite the frailest wooden shells that 
yet survive the " early days." Running up from 
the water, one encounters such noble blocks as 
Treadwell's, not lofty but broad, deep and strong. 
Harpending's whole-block front. The Grand 
Hotel and Nucleus foretell the size and style of the 
blocks which are 3*et to form continuous fronts 
along this main artery of trade. 

Second, Third and Fourth Streets. — South of 
Market, these streets come nearer to fashionable 
streets than/in}^ others; especially along the blocks 
nearer to Market. They j^resent several single 
buildings of notable size and style. 

The Best Time. — For any walk or drive within 
the city limits, or on the entire San Francisco 
peninsular, the most comfortable hours of all the 
day, during the season in which the touiists com- 
monly visit us, that is from May to September, are, 
unquestionably, the morning hours; the earlier the 
better. If you would see men and women go 
later; take the afternoon, face the wind and the 
dust, be lifted bodily off your feet, round "Cape 
Horn," as they call the southeast corner of Market 
and Third streets, until you have quite enough of 



SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. i6i 

that ''free-soil" wliicli may be a very fine thing in 
politics, but is a " beastly disagreeable thing," as 
our English friends might say, on a promenade. 

Drives. 

The Clief House Road. — Stretches westerly from 
the city limits, now the west end of Bush street, to 
the Pacific Ocean beach — originall}" a mere trail 
over shifting sand hills. It has become the broad- 
est, hardest, smoothest and, longest track in the 
State. If you want an idea of California horse- 
flesh, and San Francisco turnouts, trot out this 
way almost an}^ day. The track has a fine, hard 
surface wide enough, in places, for twenty teams 
abreast, and is often nearly filled from side to side 
with smooth-rolling or friendly racing teams, from 
the natty single buggy to the elegant coach, or the 
stately four-in-hand. A million dollars' worth of 
legs and wheels flash by a man in a very few hours 
on this fashionable drive, especially on a race-day. 
Along this road are one or two wayside inns, which, 
like the majority of California inns, are chiefly 
drinking-houses under another name* At the end 
stands the Cliff House, so named from its site, 
the solid top of a precipitous rocky bluff or 
cliff, overlooking the Seal Eocks, a few hun- 
dred feet west; then a thirty-mile horizon of 
the Pacific Ocean, broken only by the sharp 
rocky points of the Farallones low down under the 



1 62 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

western sky, visible only wlieu fogs and mists and 
haze are wanting. Attached to the house are long- 
horse sheds which shut off the wind from your 
horse Avhile his driver goes in to interview Fouler, 
mine host of the Cliff. South of the Cliff the road 
goes down to and out upon the Ocean House, 
which differs little from the poi)ular eastern beach 
drives, except that it is not as wide even at the 
lowest of the tide, and that the ocean view thence 
is far more seldom ^ diversified with sails: The 
beach ' and surf are good, however, and a brisk 
drive of two or three miles upon it, seldom fails to 
put the oxygen into the lungs — the iodine into 
the blood, and the exhilaration into the spirits. 
Some two or three miles south of the Cliff House, 
the road bends east, leaves the beach and starts 
back to the ciij by another wa^^ known as the 

Ocean House Road, named, like the other, from 
the house standing near its seaward end. Ap- 
proaching the city by this route, one reaches a 
greater height than by the Cliff House road, and 
when about two miles from the city, enjoj's a beauti- 
ful view of the southern and western city, the ship- 
ping, the bay, the opposite shore, the trailing cities 
and towns, whose houses gleam between the- trees 
of Contra Costa and Alameda counties, with their 
grassy foot-hills, the whole view backed and bound- 
ed by old Mt. Diablo beyond. Returning by this 
road, one enters the city suburbs upon the south- 



SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 163 

west b}^ Seventeenth, or Corbett street, passes di- 
rectly by the Mission with the famous old church 
which named it, and pursues his way back to the 
centre by Market, Mission, Howard or Folsom 
streets. Between the Cliff House and Ocean House 
roads, and nearer the latter, private enterprise has 
recently constructed a third track, known as the 
Central Ocean Drive. 

Bay Yiew Eoad. — Drive from Market street along 
Third to the Long Bridge, cross that to the Potrero, 
keep straight on through the deej) cut, over the 
Islais bridge, thence through South San Francisco, 
up a little rise, from whose summit you look down 
into a little valley or green bay of vegetable gar- 
dens, between which and the water stands the Bay 
View House, on one side of the Bay View race 
track. From several points as you drive out, you 
will readily understand why they used the phrase 
*' Bay View" so frequently in naming localities 
hereabout. If you wish to return by another way, 
drive half a mile beyond the track, where your way 
runs into the older road of early times. If you have 
time, drive on to the brow of the hill and look down 
into Visitacion Valley ; if not, at the acute angle 
where the roads become one, you turn sharply 
back, and after two miles of slightly uneven road, 
enter the city between the eastern edge of the Mis- 
sion flats and the western foot of the Potrero hills. 

The best time for all these drives, as already said 



i64 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

concerning the promenades, is morning, the earlier 
the better. Besides the greater purity and fresh- 
ness of the air, everj^where accom]3anying the morn- 
ing hours, one then escapes the wind and dust 
which, on nearly every afternoon, constitute the 
chief drawback from the full enjoyment of outdoor 
pleasure during those hours. 

Libraries. 

In these windy and dusty afternoons, when na- 
ture seems to frown, art and literature invite you 
within, and proffer quiet retreats with the best of 
company — good books. For a city as 3'oung and 
as distinctively absorbed in business, SansFrancisco 
has amply provided for the gratification of scien- 
tific research or literary taste. The chief libraries 
are the Mercantile, the Mechanics' Institute, the 
Odd Fellows', the Pioneers', and the Y. M. C. A., 
each of which is located in the building of the same 
name, presently to be noticed. Besides these, at 
the What Cheer House, and at Woodward's Gar- 
dens, one finds two or three thousand well selected 
standard volumes, free to guests and visitors. 

Public Buildings, 

FEDERAL. 

Post-Office. — The first of these to every tourist 
is, naturally, the Government building through 
which his letters come and go. This is a mode- 



SAX FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 165 

rately-sized two-stoiy building' of stuccoed brick, 
running parallel with the west side of Battery street, 
between Washington and Jackson. One may enter 
from any street of the three. The ladies' entrance, 
which is also common, is from Washingion street. 
The principal business entrance is on the w^est front 
of the building, through a cross street entered at 
either end from Washington or Jackson. The 
office opens daily at 8 a. m., and closes at 6:30 p.m., 
except Sundays, when its only open hour is from 
9 to 10 A.M. The great overland mail for New 
York, by the way of Salt Lake and Omaha, closes 
every week day at 7:30 a. m., aiid on Saturdays at 
3 p. M. N. B. Stone, P. M. 

The Custom House is simply the upper floor of 
the Post-office building. Entrance on Battery, 
near Washington. Timothy G. Phelps, Collector. 

U. S. Branch Mint. — The old building still occu- 
pied, and likely to be for at least a year, stands on 
the north side of Commercial, near Montgomery. 
Office hours from 9 a. m. to 2 p. m. Visitors re- 
ceived daily from 9 to 12. O. H. La Grange, Su- 
perintendent. 

The New Mint, or what is to be that building, 
stands on the northwest corner of Fifth and Mission 
streets. Its ground dimensions are 221J feet on 
Fifth, by 166J feet on Mission street. The base- 
ment is already built of California granite. Above 
the basement, which is 13J feet high, the w^alls are 



1 66 BANCROFTS TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

built of blue-gray freestone, from Newcastle Island 
in the Gulf of Georgia, between Vancouver's Island 
and the mainland of British Columbia. Thus, Un- 
cle Sam is building his new Mint of British stone. 
Two stories of 18 J feet each will surmount the 
high basement. The lower of these is now nearly 
completed. From the pavement to the crown of 
the roof will be 70 feet; Two chimneys will tower 
to the height of 150 feet. 

The U. S. Maeine Hospital stands at the north- 
east corner of Harrison and Main streets, u^^on the 
northeast slope of Rincon Hill. This is the old 
building. The hospital also occupies the former 
buildings of the Deaf and Dumb Asjdum, on the 
southeast corner of Mission and Fifteenth streets. 

CITY AND COUNTY BUILDINGS. 

Old City Hall. — This famous old brick and 
stucco, two-story, earthquake-cracked, and iron- 
braced structure, with the adjoining Hall of 
Records, stretches along the east side of Kearny 
street froni Merchant to Washington, and extends 
nearly a third of the block down each of those 
streets. The j)olice-offices and lock-ups occupy 
the basement, while the usual District Court rooms, 
with Judges' Chambers and municipal offices, Su- 
pervisors' and Board of Education rooms, fill the 
upper floors, and clamor for more room. 

The New City Hall thus far exists only on 



SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 167 

paper. The Commissioners have chosen an elabo- 
rate plan for a costly edifice, which will far surpass 
anything on the coast in architectural beauty; but 
the execution of that plan has hardly yet completed 
the excavation for the foundation walls. Hence it 
is yet too early to tantalize the tourist with descrip- 
tions of a beautiful building not yet visible, except in 
the architect's drawing, or the lithographic copies. 
If any tourist is curious to see the si/e, he may find it 
by going out Market street till he reaches what vras 
known as Yerba Buena Park; corner of Market 
and Seventh streets. The City Hall Commissioners 
adopted the plans and specifications of Mr. Augus- 
tus Laver, of New York, and elected him architect; 
but, at the present rate of progress, it is hardly 
probable that less than two -or three years will 
witness the completion of the urgently -needed and 
magni^cently-designed new City Hall. 

Jail. — On the north side of Broadway, between 
Dupont and Kearny, one desirous of inspecting 
our penal institutions may find ample op2:)ortunity to 
study the physiognomy of that class which inhab- 
its them, and learn the crimes which preponderate 
in the Pacific metropolis. Sheriff, P. J. White. 

Almshouse. — This as^dum occupies one of the 
healthiest locations in the State, near the Ocean 
House, or San Miguel road, about four and one 
quarter miles southwest of the City Hall. M. J. 
Keating, Superintendent. 



1 68 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

Industrial School. — This finely-constructed, con- 
veniently-arranged and T^^ell-managed reform school, 
stands on the western slope of the peninsula hills, 
about seven miles southwest of the city. Like the 
Almshouse it has as healthful a location as can be 
found in the State. It receives only boys, who are 
regularly taught b}" competent teachers, and em- 
ployed in various indoor occupations or out-door 
work. Present number of inmates, two hundred and 
twelve. The order and discipline of this school 
vf ell repay a visit. Jno. C. Pelton, Superintendent. 

Engine Houses. — In early days, before the estab- 
lishment of homes, the pioneer firemen seemed to love 
their machine very much as the sailor loves his ship. 
They built elegant and costly engine houses, which 
became to many of tlnem the only homes the}^ ever 
knew. Since the introduction of the improved 
steam fire engines, and the organization of the paid 
fire department, the glory of the old volunteer or- 
ganizations has well nigh departed. But their 
houses yet remain, some of them converted to other 
uses, while others still retain much of their earlier 
attractiveness. 

Eight first-class steamers, of the Amoskeagmake, 
weighing from three to four tons each, throwing 
four hundred gallons a minute, each costing from 
four to five thousand dollars in gold coin, and 
manned by twelve men, make up the present paid 
fire department. At a public trial a week since. 



SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 169 

New York and Philadelphia witnesses voluntarily 
and unanimously testified that they had never seen 
machines reach the spot as soon and get a stream 
upon the flames as quickly, as did the machines of 
our fire department. This fact may conduce to the 
sense of security with which the eastern tourist lies 
down to sleep in his strange bed. For the benefit 
of any extra nervous gentleman, w^e may add the 
universal rule of conduct in regard to midnight 
alarms of fire among us, is this : "When waked by 
a fire-alarm, place 3^our hand against the nearest 
wall. If it feels cold, lie still ; if moderately warm, 
order a different room at once ; if positively ]iot^ 
leave for another hotel immediately. 

COKPOKATION AND SOCIETY BUILDINGS. 

The* Pioneer's Building. — A finely proportioned 
building on the corner of Gold and Montgomery 
streets, above Jackson. This building is not as note- 
worthy as the society which built and chiefly oc- 
cupies it. The famous " Society of California 
Pioneers" was formed in August, 1850. Its con- 
stitution declares its object to be: 

' ' To cultivate the social virtues of its members ; 

" To collect and preserve information connected 
with the early settlement of the countiy; and 

' ' To perpetuate the memory of those whose 
sagacity, energy and love of independence induced 
them to settle in the wilderness and become the 
germs of a new State." 



1 70 BAXCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

It includes three classes: 1st. Native Cali- 
fornians; foreigners living in California before the 
American conquest; and citizens of the United 
States who became actual residents here before 
January 1st, 1849 — with the male descendants of 
these. 

2d. Citizens of the United States who became 
actual residents of California before January 1st, 
1850, and their male descendants. 

3d. Honorary members admitted according to 
the by-laws. The society has enrolled over 1,300 
members. Its historical library and museum well 
rej)a3" a ^isit. Charles D. Carter, President. 

Merchant's Exchange. — This building, the com- 
mercial headquarters of the mercantile arm}" of the 
Pacific, stands on the south side of California street, 
between Montgomery and Sansome. It ranks 
among the largest and finest architectural orna- 
ments of the cit3\ , 

Bank of California. — Northwest corner of Cali- 
fornia and Sansome. This elegant stone structure 
is not remarkable for size; but for broad and deej) 
foundations, slow and strong construction, harmo- 
nious proportions, convenient arrangements and 
admirable finish within and without, it ranks 
among the finest and most costl}' business build- 
ings in the Union. President, D. O. Mills. 
Cashier, William C. Ralston. 

Mercantile Library Building. — North side of Bush 



SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 171 

street, between Montgomery and Sansonie. This is 
the building for which the great letter}^ paid. It 
presents a noble front, a finety finished interior, 
with library room containing over 30,000 volumes, 
reading room, magazine room, reference room, 
chess room, with a large ladies' room of remarkably 
costly and tasteful furnishing. The hall in the 
basement, has already been noticed. Ogden Hoff- 
man, President; Alfred Stebbins, Librarian. 

Mechanics' Institute Building. — South side of 
Post street, just below Kearny. A well-propor- 
tioned, substantially built, sensible-looking build- 
ing, and so far truthfull}^ indicative of the health- 
ful prosperity of the excellenj} organization which 
Qwns and occupies it. A library of nearly 20,000 
volumes, including many rare and costly scientific 
works, a large and well-stocked reading room, a 
sort of museum, including mineralogical cabinets, 
mechanical models, scientific apparatus and works 
of art, with a popular business college, occupy 
this valuable building. The commodious hall upon 
the lower floor, has been previously described. 

Mechanics' Pa^^llion. — Union Square, between 
Geary and Post streets on the south and north, 
and Stockton and Powell streets on the east and 
w^est. One of the largest, if nol the largest, wooden 
buildings now standing in America, covering two 
and one half acres of ground; originally erected 
by the Mechanics' Institute Association, for the 



172 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

accommodation of tlieir biennial fairs, and found 
almost indispensably convenient for all grander 
gatherings; it lias since been retained, and success- 
ively occupied by fairs, grand masquerade balls, 
velocipede schools and skating rinks. The most 
notable event occurring under its mammoth roof 
was the Grand Musical Festival or Gift Concert, in 
aid of the Mercantile Library Association, given 
under the lead of Madame Camilla Urso. After 
the ap2:>roaching Mechanics' Fair, to be held this 
summer, the building is to be removed. 

Masonic Temple. — Upon the west side of Mont- 
gomer}^ at the corner of Post; of j)eculiar and at- 
tractive architecture, imposing proportions and 
elegant finish, it justly ranks among the most 
prominent buildings of the city. 

Odd Fellows' Hall. — Montgomery street, be- 
tween Pine and California. Not particularly im- 
posing from without, but attractive from the unity, 
strength and benificence of the Order which it 
represents. Within are a library of nearly 20,000 
standard and popular volumes, a well-supplied 
reading-room, and a well-managed savings' bank. 

Y. M. C. A. — This quartette of initials has now 
become so well known throughout the larger cities of 
the Union, that the visitor in an}^ large city is dis- 
appointed if he does not find the local habitation of 
this fast-spreading bond of unity among all good 
men. Here, upon Sutter street, just above Kearny, 



SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 173 

he will be agreeably disappointed to discover a 
lai'ge, new, stone-front building, unique in design, 
and most pleasing in its general effect. Within are 
libraiy, reading-rooms, hall, gymnasium, and 
several convenient lodging-rooms. Chas. Goodall, 
President; H. L. Chamberlain, Librarian. 

Business Buildings and Blocks. 

Alta California Building — On the south side of 
California street, betweeji Montgomery and Kearny. 
Its comparatively great height, as related to its 
width, give it a somewhat monumental appearance, 
not inappropriate, however, when we remember that 
the whole tasteful structure stands as the monu- 
ment of the enterprise, energy, perseverance and 
success of the oldest and largest paper published 
in the State. Fred. MacCrellish & Co., proprie- 
tors. 

Bancroft's — South side of Market street, between 
Third and Fourth. Few business buildings upon 
the continent combine the colossal proportions with 
the graceful details of this mammoth house of the 
oldest and largest publishing firm upon the coast. 

DoNOHOE, Kelly & Co.'s Building — Upon the 
southeast corner of Montgomery and Sacramento 
streets, deserves mention among the finest business 
buildings. 

Harpending's Block — On the south side of Mar- 
ket street, between First and Second; the longest 



174 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

and loftiest business front presented by any single 
business block in the city. 

Murphy, Grant & Go's. Building — Northeast 
corner of Bush and Sansome. A large and hand- 
some building, as strong as iron, stone and brick 
can make it. 

ToBiN, Dixon & Davisson's Building — Northwest 
corner of Sansome and Sutter, can hardly be 
omitted from the inspection of our finest business 
houses. 

Tread well's Agricultural Warehouse — South 
side of Market street, opposite Front. Not lofty, 
but broad; not imposing, but extensive. 

Tucker's — Northwest corner of Montgomeiy 
and Sutter. Lofty, finely-proportioned, monu- 
mental, and substantial; surmounted by a clock- 
tower, which has become one of the landmarks of 
the city. The main salesroom within is beautifully 
frescoed and fitted throughout with extreme ele- 
gance and at great cost. 

The White House — Corner of Kearn}' and Post 
streets. An elegant new iron and brick structure, 
light, airy and ornamental in its general efiect. 
Receives its name from its color, which has hitherto 
been an uncommon one in this city, but is daily 
becoming less so. Occupied chieflj^ by the leading 
dry goods firm of J. W. Davidson & Co. 

Wells, Fargo & Co's. Building — Corner of 
California and Montgomery streets. Who does not 



SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 175 

know it ? Solid granite blocks, dressed in^China, 
brought liitlier in ships, and j)ilecl in stern sim- 
plicity upon that central corner to outstand all 
earthquake shocks, and survive all business wrecks. 
A pioneer building v\'hich has already become far 
too small for its immense business, but ought never 
to be taken down until the whole city goes with it. 

Manufactories. 

Kimball Car and Carriage Factory. — Corner of 
Bryant and Fourth streets. Eastern visitors call 
this the largest establishment of the kind in America. 
In immense extent, convenient arrangement, and 
comprehensiveness of scope, it can hardly be sur- 
passed. Its latest trium23h is the construction of a 
magnificent Palace Car, built wholly of California 
woods, undisguised by paint, carving, gilding, or 
varnish — the most complete and suj^erb palace 
on wheels ever built. Thirt^^-five different woods 
enter into its construction, disj)laying a variety of 
structure and a range of harmonious tints hardly 
imaginable by those who have seen only the poor 
imitations of feeble art. The car is a triumph of 
taste and skill, and is worth a half -day's time of 
any tourist simj^ly to study and enjoy it. It has 
been proposed that the merchants of this city buy 
it, and present it to the President of the United 
States — to the office, not the incumbent — to be kej^t 
at Washiiifi-ton, and used as the official car for all 



176 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

Presidential tours. A better idea could hardly be 
suggested. May the motion prevail ! 

The Pacific Eolling Mills stand upon the 
point of the Potrero. The}^ include all tlie massive 
machinery of their ponderous business, and turn 
out heavy castings, forgings, and railroad iron by 
hundreds of tons daily. 

The Mission Woolen Mills — Folsom street, cor- 
ner of Sixteenth. Here are made those wonderful 
blankets of such marvelous fineness and thickness, 
which have attracted so much attention, and re- 
ceived even the World's Fair premium abroad. 

Foundries and Iron "Works. 

Union Iron Works. — The oldest and largest in 
California, employing three hundred and thirty 
men, and turning out the heaviest and most perfect 
mining and railroad machineiy, locomotives, etc. 
Located on the northeast corner of Mission and 
First streets. H. J. Booth & Co. 

KisDON Iron and Locomotive Works, southeast 
corner of Howard and Beale streets. Has all 
the latest mechanical improvements of the business. 
Can turn out a shaft forty-eight feet long, and 
weighing thirty tons. It employs two hundred and 
sevent3'-five hands. John N. Risdon, president. 

The Fulton, Miners', and Pacific Foundries, with 
the Etna and Vulcan Iron Works, are the other 
leading ones of the coast. 



SAN FRANCISCO AND vicinity: 177 

Shot Tower and Lead "Works. 

Corner of Howard and First streets. The pioneer 

and, thus far, the only works u^Don the coast. The 

tower is one of the most prominent ^nd sightly 

objects visible in all the water approaches to the 

city. 

Sugar Reflneries. 

The city has four: The Sail Francisco and Paci- 
fic, Bay, California, and Golden Gate, turning 
out twenty thousand tons of sugar annually. 

Sliip Yards. 

At North Beach and at the Potrero are the prin- 
cipal yards. They build mainly river steamers or 
ferry boats, or smaller ocean craft, rarely construct- 
ing anything above three hundred tons. For 
larger craft it is cheaper to go north, where 
immense forests of the finest shij^-timber run clear 
down to the ocean beach, and stand asking to be 
built into ships. 

Glass Works. 

Two: one in the city, on the south side of Town- 
send, between Third and Fourth; and the other, 
the Pacific Glass works, on the Potrero, at the 
corner of Iowa and Mariposa streets. These con- 
fine their works chiefly to bottles, telegraph caps, 
etc. 

Churclies. 

Baptist. — This prominent denomination has six 



178 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 



cliurcli buildings iu the city. The First Baptist 
Church claims special space from the fact that it 
was the first Protestant house of worship dedicated 
in California. This was in August, 1849. The 
present building of stuccoed brick, pccupies the 
original site of the first small, wooden pioneer 
church — on the north side of Washington street, 
between Stockton and^Dupont. Rev, A. E. Med- 
bmy. Pastor. 

CoxgeectAtional. — This denomination has the 
honor of having furnished the first settled Protest- 
ant chaplain in San Francisco, Rev. T. D wight 
Hunt. He held the rare position of "Citizens' 
Chaplain," Nov. 1st, 1848, conducting Divine wor- 
ship every Sunday in the " Public Institute," (the 
school-house) on Portsmouth Square — the Plaza. 
The citizens unitedly invited him from Honolulu, 
and paid him $2,500 a year. The denomination 
has four church buildings- -named by their order 
of erection. The First Congregational Church is 
on the southwest corner of California and Dupont 
streets. The pastor is Rev. Dr. Stone, formerly of 
the Park street church, Boston. 

Episcopal. — This denomination has five church 
buildings, of which Grace Church, corner of Cali- 
fornia and Stockton streets, is the oldest and larg- 
est. The building is 135 feet long, 62 feet v/ide 
and ^^ feet high. Its gi-eat size and sightly location 
make it one of the prominent buildings in any 



SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 179 

general view of the cit}^ Eev. James S. Busli, 
Rector. The four other Episcopal church build- 
iugs are — Trinity, St. John's, Church of the Advent, 
and St. Luke's. 

Hebrew. — Synagogue of the Congregation 
Emanu-el, Sutter street, between Stockton and 
Powell. Of the five Jewish congregations, this has 
"The Synagogue" par excellence — the one always 
meant when one speaks of " The Jewish Syna- 
gogue." It is an elegant and costty structure, built 
of brick, not yet stuccoed, su23porting two promi- 
nent towers, and finished within in most appropri- 
ate and artistic style. Total cost, including lot, 
$185,000, gold coin. 

Methodist. — This popular, powerful and rapidly 
growing denomination has already erected eleven 
church buildings in San Francisco — more than any 
other Protestant Church, except the Presbyterians. 
Its newest and most elegant church is the First 
Methodist Episcopal Church, on the west side of 
Powell, between Washington and Jackson. This 
is one of the most elegant and really artistic 
churches, within and without, any where to be 
found. Eev. Dr. Cox, Pastor. 

Howard Street M. E. Church. — South side of 
Howard, between Second and Third. This is the 
most substantial and valuable building owned by 
the denomination. Value, including lot and par- 



i8o BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

sonage, $100,000. Its sWle is medieval gotliic. 
Pastor, Rev. L. Walker. 

Pkesbyteeian. — This recently united denomina- 
tion, no longer old and new scliool, lias also eleven 
churcli buildings; of these the tw^o most noted are 
the Calvar}^ Presbyterian Church, corner of 
Gear}^ and Powell streets. This church is as capa- 
cious and comfortable, even luxurious within, as the 
most fastidious could desire. Its organ is the 
largest and finest on the coast. Rev. J. Hemphill, 
Pastor. 

Howard Presbyterian Church, Mission street, 
near Third; lately. Rev. Dr. Scudder's. This 
building, with a plain and unpretentious ex- 
terior, has greater seating capacity than any other 
Protestant church in the city. It is of recent con- 
struction and very convenient internal arrange- 
ments. Temporary pastor, Rev. J. K. Kendall. 

Fii'st Presbyterian Church — On the west side of 
Stockton, between Washington and Clay. This 
gothic building is one of the largest and finest — 
but its chief claim to notice here, rests upon the 
fact that the church which built it, organized May 
20th, 1849, under the direction of the Rev. Albert 
Williams, was the first Protestant church organized 
in San Francisco. 

RoiMAN Catholic. — St. Patrick's Church, on the 
north side of Mission, between Third and Fourth 
streets. Although so new that it is not yet fin- 



SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. i8i 

islied, tills church is set first, because it is the 
largest in the State, being one hundred and sixty 
feet long by eighty feet wide. Its spire is the 
loftiest and most beautifully^ proportioned in the 
city, height 240 feet. Rev. Peter J. Grrey, Pastor. 

St. Mary's Cathedral, California street, at the 
northeast corner of Dupont. In age, cost and rank 
this building is entitled to the first place. It is a 
noble structure of Gothic architecture, which has 
been carried out in every detail. The front extends 
seventj^-five feet on California street, from which 
the cathedral runs back one hundred and thirty-one 
f feet on Dupont. The tower is at present one hun- 
dred and thirty-five feet high, and is to be sur- 
mounted by a spire rising sixty-five feet further. 
The Most Rev. Joseph S. Alemany is the A-i'ch- 
bishop. 

Old Mission Church, on the southwest corner of 
Sixteenth and Dolores streets. This was dedicated 
Oct. 9, 1776, b}^ Father Junipero Serra, the father 
of the California missions. Aside from its age and 
associations, the building is of little note. It is 
built of the old adobes, which were simply unburnt 
bricks dried in the sun, and formed a favorite build- 
ing material with the early Spanish and Mexican 
inhabitants. The old custom-house, on Portsmouth 
square, was built of this material. The roof was 
covered with semi-cylindrical tiles of burnt clay, 
laid in altern'ate rows, the first one having the con- 



i82 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

cave side up, and the next its convex side up. Tlie 
outside, generally, is very plain, tliougli tlie front 
sliows some old-fashioned round columns, and a 
few small bells suspended in square apertures under 
the projecting, roof. The interior is dark, cold and 
comfortless. Rev. Thos. Gushing, Pastor. 

Besides the three churches already named, the 
Catholics have nine others in the city, in addition 
to five or six chapels and as^dums. 

SwEDENBOKGiAN. — First Ncw Jerusalcm Church. 
This is a very neat Gothic building, on the north 
side of O'Farrell, between Mason and Taylor 
streets. Rev. John Doughty, Pastor. 

A second New Jerusalem Church, of which Rev. 
Joseph Worcester is pastor, having j-et erected no 
buiUling, meets in the Druids' Hall, No. 413 Sutter 
street. 

Unitaeian. — First Unitarian Church. This most 
beautiful church edifice stands upon the south side 
of Geary street, just below Stockton. Its front pre- 
sents, unquestionably, the finest specimen of chui'ch 
architecture in the State, and can haj'dly be sur- 
passed in America. The interior is tastefully deco- 
rated with a colored fresco of extreme beaut}^, and 
most artistic harmony of tint. The organ, baj)- 
tismal font, and the pulpit, perpetuate the unique 
taste of the lamented pastor, whose loved name the 
public mind cannot dissociate from the beautiful 



SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 183 

building, wliicli, always known as " Starr King's" 
cliurch, has become liis fitting monument. 

This is the only church building of this denom- 
ination in the city or the State, 

Chinese Mission House. — This is a combination 
church and school-house, new, neat and commo- 
dious, fifty-six feet by seventy feet, and three stories 
high. i^djoining school-rooms, readily throvv^n 
into one, rooms for the Superintendent, Rev. Mr. 
Gibson and family, and for his assistant, Rev. Hu 
Sing Me,, the native preacher, and his family, occu- 
py the various floors. School "keej^s" every even- 
ing in the week, except Saturda}^ and Sunday. 
Bible class at half -past ten every Sunday morning, 
and Sunday school at seven p. m. 

The entire property belongs to the Methodist 
Church, who maintain it as a most efficient home 
mission. 

The Mariner's Church, northeast corner of Sacra- 
mento and Drumm streets. It is a neat and com- 
modious wooden building, erected in 1867, by 
contributions from merchants and other citizens of 
San Francisco. Rev. J. Rowell, Pastor. 

Hospitals and Asylums. 

City and County Hospital. — Stands upon the 
southwest corner of Stockton and Francisco streets. 

French Benevolent Society. — Has one of the 
finest hospitals of the State, a large and handsome 



1 84 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

brick building, surrounded witli pleasant gardens and 
ornamented grounds, occupying the ^vliole block on 
the south side of Bryant, between Fifth and Sixth, 
making a most agreeable and healthful home for 
the invalid. Others besides French may receive 
its benefits, by assuming membership and paying its 
moderate dues. 

German General Benevolent Society. — Admits 
only Germans. It has over eighteen hundred 
members. On Brannan street, near Third, this 
society has a very large two-story brick building 
with basement — furnished with every form of bath, 
and looking out upon fine gardens and shrubbery. 

Protestant Orphan Asylum. — On the West side of 
Laguna street, between Haight and AValler. A 
large and elegant building of brick and stone — 
one of the ornamental landmarks of that ^^^xi of 
the city. It accommodates two hundred and fifty 
little ones. Mrs. Ira P. Rankin, President; Mrs. 
Lucy Stewart, Matron. 

Roman Catholic Orphan Asylum. — Market street, 
south side, between New^ Montgomery and Third. 
A noble and capacious brick building accommo- 
dating three hundred and twenty children, 
and having a school of five hundred and fifty 
day scholars attached. The Asylum is under the 
sole management of Archbishoj) Alemany and the 
Sisters of Charity. 

San Francisco Female Hospital. — Corner of Clay 



SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 185 

street and Prospect Place. Any woman who is 
sick and poor, lias a right to its benefits. It is 
a genuine charity, regarding neither nativity, relig- 
ion nor social rank. Mrs. M. E. Koberts, Presi- 
dent; Dr. C. T. Deane, Physician. , 

Ladies' Protection and Pelief Society. — Frank- 
lin street, between Post and Geary. The main 
object of the society is to furnish a real Home for 
friendless or destitute girls, between three and four- 
teen years old. Boys, under ten and over three, 
may be received and provided for until furnished 
with a permanent home in a christian family. It 
has over two hundred inmates, nearly all girls. 
Miss C. A, Harmon, Matron. 

Nearly a hundred other public and private 
benevolent societies attempt to make up, as well as 
possible, the lack of friends and homes, always so 
severely felt by strangers or temporary residents in 
any large city, and especially so in one of as cos- 
mopolitan a character as ours. 

Colleges. 

Besides the larger public schools, which are 
really the peoples' colleges — the city has sixty-five 
colleges and private schools. The number of 
pupils attending them in 1870 was 4,582, against 
21,000 in the public schools. 

City College. — Southeast corner of Stockton 
and Geaiy streets. This institution has built and 



1 86 BANCROFT'S TOURISTS GUIDE. 

furnished an elegant French Gothic building at 
University Mound, some three miles southwest 
of the city, which it will occupy early in '72. Be- 
sides the usual studies, this college especially pro- 
vides the best facilities for obtaining a thorough 
practical knowledge of Chemistr}^, in all its ap- 
plications to assaj'ing, mining, medical manufac- 
tures and mechanics. Rev. Dr. Veeder, President. 

Heald's Business College. — College Buildingj 
Post street, between Montgomery and Kearny. 
Its design is to educate boys and young men, with 
a special view to practical business. It is one of 
the famous thirtj'-six Bryant and Stratton Business 
Colleges, located in the leading cities of the United 
States and Canada. Students, two hundred and 
fifty. E. P. Heald, President. 

St. Ignatius' College. — Occupies the noble brick 
building on the south side of Market street, be- 
tween Fourth and Fifth. It is largely attended, 
and is successfully conducted by the Jesuit 
Fathers. 

St. Mary's College. — On the old county road to 
San Jose, four and a half miles southwest of the 
city. Building, two hundred and eighty feet front, 
by fifty feet deep — of excellent proportion and 
fine appearance. Conducted by the Christian 
Brothers. B. Justin, President. 

Toland Medical College. — East side of Stock- 
ton street, between Chestnut and Francisco. The 



SAN' FRANCISCO A.VD VICINITY. 187 

building is of brick, capacious, commodious, finely 
located and admirably adapted to tbe purpose of- 
its construction. H. H. Toland, M. D., President. 

Public School Buildings. 

Lincoln. — Fifth street — soutli side, near Market. 
Brick structure, four stories bigh, 141 J feet long, 
63 J feet wide; 20 class-rooms 129x34 feet, besides 
eigbt wardrobes and teachers' rooms — wide halls, 
and four broad stairways the whole height, with a 
large hall in the upper story. It accommodates 
twelve hundred grammar grade pu]3ils, all boys. 
In front stands a finely modeled statue of Abraham 
Lincoln for whom the building was named. Cost, 
$100,000, gold coin. B. Marks, Principal. 

Denman. — Bush street, north side, corner of 
Taylor. Brick stuccoed; length, 98 J feet; width, 
68 feet; height, four stories, including attic rooms. 
Fourteen class-rooms, each 28x34, accommo- 
dating eight hundred pupils, all girls. Cost, 
$78,000, gold. This building was named in honor 
of James Denman, one of the pioneer public school 
teachers of the city — the founder of this school and 
for many years, as at present, its principal. Few 
cities in the Union can show school buildings as 
elegant, convenient, substantial and costly as these 
two noble monuments of public appreciation of, 
and liberality towards, the system which must 
underlie and sustain our free government if it is 
to stand at all. 



1 88 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

Tehama. — Tehama street, near First. Brick, un- 
disguised; 111 feet long, 75 feet deep, three stories 
high, besides spacious basement play-rooms — has 
sixteen class-rooms, each 24x31, hall, 41x49, with 
ample stairings, and convenient teacher's-rooms 
and ample j-ards. Cost, $28,300, gold. It accom- 
modates one thoiisand primary pupils of both sexes. 
Mrs. E. A. Wood, Principal. 

Besides these, the city has several large and fine 
wooden school-houses of modern structure. Of 
these the most sightlj^, is the Girls' High School, 
south side of Bush street, near Stockton — 57x92, 
three stories, ten class-rooms, 27x34, with an as- 
sembly hall, 54x55; whose IcDgth can be increased 
to 90 feet, by opening folding doors between it 
and two adjoining class-rooms. It is the most con- 
veniently arranged, best ventilated, sunniest, most 
cheerful and healthful school-house in the State. 
Ellis H. Holmes, Principal. To these the De- 
partment has recently added, and is now adding, 
four or five 18 class-room buildings, of .wood, 
each accommodating one thousand pupils, now 
occupying the old and small school-rooms of early 
days or hived in unsuitable rented rooms. 

Bancroft's Book and Stationery Establishment. 

It may appear like exaggeration to say that San 
Francisco contains the largest and most complete 
general Book and Stationery, mercantile and manu- 



SAN FR A A CISCO AND VICINITY. 189 

factiiring business in the world. Yet, such is the 
fact. Not that the business, by any means, equals 
that of Harpers' and Appietons', of New York, Hach- 
ette of Paris, or the stationers of London. But, 
between these houses and Bancroft's, there is no 
comparison. The character of their trade is totally 
different. One publishes books, another manufac- 
tures paper, and so each is large in one thing, 
whereas the Bancrofts, collecting from the manu- 
facturers of all the world, and manufacturing ac- 
cording to the requirements of their trade, cover 
under one management the ground occupied by all 
others combined. In older and larger cities, one 
house deals in laAv books alone; another, school 
books, etc., while this San Francisco house— besides 
a full stock of books in every department of litera- 
ture, and stationery from the manufacturers of Eu- 
rope and America, paper from the mills of New 
England, 23fincils from Germany, pen-holders from 
Paris — unite Printing, Book-binding, Lithography, 
Blank-Book Making, Engraving, &c., every thing, 
in short, comprised in all the business of all the 
others. 

The detail is necessarily very great. They buy 
from a thousand sellers, and sell to many thousand 
buyers. Over one hundred employes, divided into 
nine departments, each under an experienced man- 
ager, ply their vocation like bees in a hive of six 
rooms, each 37 by 170 feet. To the latest improve- 



igo BANCROFT'S TOURISTS GUIDE. 

ments of tlie finest macliineiy, driven Idj steam, ap- 
ply the liigliest order of skilled labor, and San 
Francisco can do anything as ^'ell and as cheaply 
as New York, London or Paris. 

The retail department, occupying the first floor, 
has the most magnificent salesroom on the Pacific 
coast. Visitors are warmly welcomed, and stran- 
gers politely shown through the premises. 
* 

Private Residences. 

For the convenience of the tourist, who may want 
to see the homes of our city as well as her public 
buildings and business blocks, we mention the 
locality of the following, which are among the 
finest of our private dwellings: Erwin Davis, 
southwest corner of California and Powell streets; 
Milton S. Latham, Folsom street, opposite Haw- 
thorne, on Rincon Hill; D. J. Tallant, corner of 
Bush and Jones street; Richard Tobin, corner of 
California and Taylor streets; John Parrott, 620 
Folsom street. By making two tiips — first, over 
California street, and returning by Sutter or Bush 
street; second, over Rincon Hill on Folsom street, 
and returning by Harrison, the visitor may see the 
finest of our private residences. 

Points of Observation. 

Telegkaph Hill. — This notable natural landmark 
stands at the head, that is, at the north end of 



SA.V FJ^ A AT IS CO AND VICINITY. 191 

Montgomeiy street. The early settlement, the 
pioneer hamlet from which the present city has 
grown, was made in the hollow near the southwest 
foot. Civilization has encircled it on the land side, 
and crept two thirds the way up, while com- 
merce has claimed the water front along its oppo- 
site base — but the summit still stands as free as 
when the priestly fathers first looked thence upon 
the glorious inland sea, which flashes between it 
and the sunrise. Let us climb it — this way, straight 
up the Montgomery street sidewalk, Slowly, 
please; we have the day before us; exhausted lungs 
impair one's sight. Stop at the corner of each 
intersecting street, and glance either way, but es- 
pecially eastward — that is, downward toward the 
Bay. Now, "Excelsior," again; up these stairs;' 
now along this natural surface — no asphaltum 
walks or Stow foundation pavements up here yet, 
you see — on, by these houses; turn to the left here; 
now to the right, follow this winding way; patiently 
please — that's it; only two or three minutes more 
— ah! here it is — this is the highest point, where 
the old observatory^ stood. Sit and breathe a mo- 
ment; slip on your overcoat, or put that extra 
shawl about you; it's easy to take cold here, far 
easier than to rid yourself of it in the city below. 
For the sake of method in oiu' survey, we may as 
well begin at the northwest; thence " swing round 
the circle," through north, east, south and west, 



192 BAXCROPT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

and return to the j^oint of starting. Looking north- 
westerly, then, we have first the elevated, undu- 
lating j)lateau, which stretches along the flattened 
summits of the northermost spur of the broad 
peninsular hills, and terminates in the precipitous 
bluff known as Fort Point — the southern gate-post 
of the far-famed Golden Gate. Through this we 
gaze seaward along the further margin of the strait, 
where it sends in a surging cove upon the rocky 
beach, between Point Diablo and Point Bonita. 
The projection of the latter point shuts off the 
vision, which else might range up the northwesterly 
trend of the coast, along the ocean-shore of Marin 
county to Punta de los Reyes, (King's Point) which 
projects southward between Bolinas bay and the 
ocean. Between Point Diablo and Lime Point, a 
slight northerly curve in the shore line makes a 
shallow cove, from whose edge the vision climbs the 
successive hills or ridges which fill the ascending 
space as it roughly rises toward the crowning point 
of Marin county. Mount Tamalpais, two thousand 
six hundred and four feet nearer heaven than the 
beach line whence we set forth. Still following 
round, we look up into Richardson's Bay; next the 
southwestern end of Raccoon Strait, and then 
Angel Island. We are noAv looking north. Alca- 
traz, the rocky island which nature set just there to 
support a commanding fortress ; then, an eye- 
sweep up over the northern part of San Francisco 



SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 193 

Bay to that narrow strait wliicli joins it witli San 
Pablo Bay; northeast the San Pablo shore of Con- 
tra Costa county, and the hills which terminate the 
Mount Diablo peninsular range. Nearer east, 
the strangely monotonous hills, whose ridges and 
gullies look as if plowed out by heavy rains, and 
rounded by sweeping winds. Grassy or earthy, 
they look, according to the time of year and kind 
of season. Now, almost east, the vision falls. This 
large island, off in the midst of the bay, is Yerba 
Buena, or Goat Island. It rises three hundred and 
forty feet above low water mark. Nearly in a line 
over the island appears Berk"eley, the site of the 
University of California, of which one large build- 
ing, already two thirds raised, you may possibly 
discern. A little further south — that is, to the 
right, you can plainly see the State Asylum for the 
Deaf and Dumb and Blind. This noble building 
crowns a gently-sloping eminence just at the mar- 
gin between the broad and nearly level plain which 
stretches between it and the bay, and the foothills 
back of hich the Contra Costa mountains bring 
up the rear. 

Almost due east lies Oakland, the tree-city of 
the beautiful grove-dotted j^lain. Then Clinton, 
San Antonio, Brooklyn and Alameda, snuggled in 
together so closely that one can't tell " which is 
which;" and, as far as the beauty of the viev/ is 
concerned, it doesn't matter either, for they are all 



194 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

fair to look upon and lovely to behold. The clus- 
tering- trees shut out by far the larger portion of 
the houses, so that we might hardly suspect the 
size and population of the towns, whose scattered 
roofs show here and there among the trees. 

We are looking southeasterly now. That creek, 
whose mouth jo\x see just beyond Alameda, 
leads into San Leandro bay; and right over it, 
nearly hidden by intervening trees, lies tlie town of 
the same name. A little further south, and too dis- 
tant to be plainly seen, is Hay ward's. That de- 
pression in the mountain summits beyond, marks 
the opening of Liveriliore pass, through which the 
Western Pacifi<3 Eailroad finds its way. 

Beyond Hayward's, further south, and thence 
sweeping around to the right, toward the extreme 
end of the bay, we dimly discern the northern end of 
the beautiful Santa Clara Valley, where it widens 
out and flattens down to the bay. We are now 
looking almost due south. Only four miles down, 
Hunter's Point shuts off our further view, and com- 
pels us to look nearer home. A trifle west of that, 
and half as far away, the Potrero presents its trans- 
verse ridge, fast disaj^pearing under the rapidty- 
growing city, and showing a gap of dajdight where 
the deep cut of the Bay View horse railroad was re- 
lentlessly dug and blasted through, in its stubborn 
pursuit of a practicable grade. Between the cut 
and ourselves, the Long Bridge shuts oft' the Mis- 



SAA' FRANCISCO AND VICINITY, 195 

sion bay, and shows where the fast-filling mucl-flats 
will soon crowd back the bay, and make a new 
water front. Still nearer, we have the western 
slope or ridge of Eincon Hill, rising gradually to 
the left, and packed all over with the huddled and 
mostly wooden houses of the new and hurriedly- 
built city. Along the inner base of the hill, and 
stretching out westward, lies the old " Haj^py 
Valley." That's just this side of where you see the 
shot-tower, and runs thence four or five blocks to 
the right. Between that and ourselves, coming 
over this side of Market street, we have the oldest 
and most densely-built part of the city, relieved 
here and there — by the Occidental Hotel, Tucker's 
tower, the Merchants' Exchange, Murph}^ Grant 
& €o's. building, and half a dozen others. Now 
let the vision range away southwest, again begin- 
ning at the hills and coming in. The bounding 
hills are Bernal Heights, west of which Fairmount 
and the adjacent hills merge into the peninsular 
range, and form a rude amphitheatre, within which 
nestles the fast-growing southwestern precinct. 
Coming up toward the west, the twin summits of 
the Mission peaks slant the vision up against the 
sky, or plunge it into the fleecy billows of in-rolling 
ocean fog, which seldom survives the warmer air of 
the inner basin long enough to roll far down their 
western slope. Between them and us lies the Mis- 
sion Dolorfes, grouped around its century-old 



196 BA y CROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

church . Northward of the twin-peaks the hills 
rise in '' promiscuous prominence." A little south 
of west, that irregularly conical hill, surmounted 
by a gigantic solitary cross, is the famous " Lone 
Mountain," about whose lower slopes, and around 
whose base are grouj)ed so many *' cities of the 
dead." Thence northerly, to the point whence our 
survey began, little of note arrests the sight, more 
than the broad reach of lower hills and sandy 
dunes, which patiently wait the coming occuj)ation 
of the westward-growing city. 

Although the point beneath our feet is but three 
hundred feet high, the panoramic view isvdder and 
freer than from any other, even the highest hilltop 
of the city. 

EussiAN Hill, — About one mile west-south ^vtst 
from Telegraph Hill, on Vallejo street, between 
Taj'lor and Jones street, Russian Hill rises nearly 
sixty feet higher, but offers little additional pros- 
pect. It was formerly surmounted by a sort of 
cork-screw observatory, a skeleton structure of 
open frame-work, surrounded by a spiral stairway, 
whose summit afforded the loftiest lookout Avithin 
the cit}^ limits. West-nortliwest of this hill, and 
about three-quarters of a mile from its summit, lies 
the small lagoon, near which the founders of the 
early mission first located. 

Clay Stkeet Hill. — Nearly south of Russian 
Hill, and about three furlongs from it, rises this 



SA.V FRANCISCO AND VICINI7 Y. 197 

hill, the highest within the city limits. It is 
named from the street which runs just south of its 
summit, or will do so when cut through. The hill 
is 376 feet high, and is a little over a mile south- 
west of Telegrapli Hill. The view from its sum- 
mit differs only in having moved the point of sight 
a mile southwest, and raised it about 80 feet. 

California Street Hill — This, too, takes its 
name from that of the neighboring street. It is 
hardly proper to call it a separate hill as it is but 
two blocks south of Clay Street Hill, from w^hich 
only a slight hollow originally separated it. 

KiNCON Hill. — Three quarters of a mile south- 
west of the City Hall. Its highest point reaches 
hardly a hundred feet above the bay level. The 
whole hill originally offered such sightly locations 
for building that it is covered on nearly all sides, 
and crowded upon its very height, by some of the 
most comfortable and home-like residences in the 
entire city. This fact makes it almost impossible 
to get an unobstructed view, in all directions, from 
any part of it. It was a favorite, and almost an 
aristocratic site for residences, until the heartless 
greed for gain procured legal authority to excavate 
the famous " Second Street Cut;" 75 feet deep, 
which needlessly ruined the beauty of the hill. 

Lone Mountain. — This singularly symmetrical hill 
stands two and one-half miles w^est of the City 
Hall, at the head of Bush street. It is 284^ feet 



198 BANCROFT'S TOURISTS GUIDE. 

high. From its summit rises a solitary cross 
which, especially near sunset, stands forth against 
the western sky with peculiar, beautiful effect. The 
view hence is full of . inspiration and suggestion. 
None have caught more of these, or embodied them 
in finer words than Bret Harte, in hisJavorite 
lines : 

As I stand by the cross on the lone mountain crest, 

Looking over the ultimate sea, 
In the gloom of the mountain a ship lies at rest, 

And one sails away from the lea; 
One spreads its white wings on a far-reaching track, 

With pennant and sheet flowing free, 
One hides in the shadow with sails laid aback — 

The ship that is waiting for me ! 

But lo, in the distance the clouds break away, 

The Gate's glowing portal I see, 
And I hear, from the out-going ship in the bay, 

The song of the sailors in glee; 
So I think of the luminous foot-prints that bore 

The comfort o'er dark Galilee, 
And wait for the signal to go to the shore ; 

To the ship that is waiting for me. 

Mission Piiaks. — The double peaks already men- 
tioned in our panoramic e^^e-sweep from Telegraph 
Hill, lying three miles southwest of it, sometimes 
called the Twin Peaks. They are five hundred and_ 
ten feet high, and stand four miles southwest of 
the City Hall. They are the loftiest points in the 
county; either summit commands a view which 



SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 199 

well repays the time and labor expended in gain- 
ing it. 

Beknal Heights. — This name designates a short 
range of hills nearly five miles west-southwest of 
the City Hall. Starting near the bay, they run 
transYe]«6ely, that is, westerly, for about one mile 
across the peninsula. Their highest point is two 
hundred and ninety-five feet above the bay. 

The highest point of the Potrero is three hun- 
dred and twenty-six feet above low tide, and the 
San Miguel Hills, near the southerly line of the 
county, reach the height of about four hundred 
feet. The Pacific Heights, near Alta Plaza, a mile 
and a half west of the City Hall, are three hundred 
and seventy-five feet high. 

These are all the natural elevations of note within 
the city and county. The best artificial outlooks 
may be had from the roof of the houses standing 
on or near the summits of those hills which rise 
within the settled portion. The roof of Bancroft's 
building, the cupola of the Grand Hotel, the U.S. 
Military Observatory, on the southwest corner of 
Third and Market streets, and the Sliot Tower, if 
you can persuade Mayor Selby to let you up, all 
afford extensive and beautiful j)i'Ospects. 

Having thus told the tourist all we know about 
the most feasible and temperate methods of " get- 
ting high," we leave him to his own direction, only 
adding that if he isn't satisfied with our efforts in his 



200 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

behalf, lie'd better go " uj) in a balloon/' and view 
our city as the Germans did Paris. 

riov/ to get about. 

The universal, inexpensive, ahvays-ready and 
democratic way is by the ever-present Horse Cars. 
Seven different companies have laid about fifty 
miles of rail in and about the city, and carry one 
either directly to or within a very short distance of 
any desired point. 

Lines, Routes and Colors. — The Omnibus and 
North Beach and Mission R.R. Companies run 
yellow cars through Third and Fourth, Sansome, 
Montgomery and Kearney, the central blocks of 
Stockton, and the northern ends of Powell and 
Mason. They also run red cars from the centre of 
the city to the southwestern limits, through How- 
ard and Folsom streets. 

The Central R.R. Co. runs red cars from the 
steamboat landings along the city front, through 
Jackson, Sansome, Bush, and other leading streets 
to Lone Mountain. Their cars are commonly called 
the Lone Mountain cars. 

The Front Street and Ocean E-.R. Co. runs green 
cars from the steamboat landings at the foot of 
Broadway, up that street, along Battery, Market, 
Sutter and Polk streets, by Spring Valley to the 
Presidio, whence ' busses connect for Fort Point, 
A branch of this road runs through Larkin street 



SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 



across Market through Ninth to Mission; thus con- 
necting the western with the southwestern suburbs. 
Within the year this company has also constructed 
and put into operation another branch, carrying one 
to Laurel Hill Cemetery and Lone Mountain. 

The Market Street R.E., the x^ioneer, runs blue 
cars from the junction of Montgomery and Market 
street, opposite the Grand Hotel, through Market 
by the San Jose Depot, and out Valencia to 
Twenty-sixth. From the junction of Ninth and 
Larkin street with Market, it sends a branch out 
through Ha^^es Valley to Hayes Valley Pavilion. 

The City E,. E.. — Lately built, and newly stocked, 
runs from the west front of Grand Hotel, at the 
junction of Market and New Montgomery, along 
the- latter to Mission, thence out Mission to Twenty- 
Sixth, passing directly by the . entrance to Wood- 
ward's Gardens, and within one block of the San 
Jose depot. 

. The Potrero and Bay View R. R. — Connecting 
with the North Beach and Mission R. R., at the 
south end of Fourth street, runs thence across the 
Long Bridge over Mission Bay — thro ugh the Potrero 
Deep Cut, over the Islais Creek bridge, through 
South San Francisco to the Bay View Race Track 
terminus, within half a mile of Hunter's Point and 
the Dry Dock. 

Times, Fakes, "etc. — Commencing at about 6 p. 
M., in summer earlier, the cars run at various in- 



202 BAiYCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

tervals of from three to seven minutes until 11 and 
12 o'clock p. M., and on the City K. R., till 1.30 
the next morning. Nearly all the roads sell tickets, 
having four coupons attached, for tv>'enty-iive cents 
each. Every coupon is good for one fare from one 
end of the city to the other, and the coupon tickets 
of one company are received by every other. For 
single fares, paid without coujDons, they usualty 
charge ten cents. Nearly a year ago the City R. 
R. started the half-dime fq^re, asking but five cents 
for a single ride, and the Market street R. R. has 
also adopted it. "Children occupying seats, full 
fare." 

Several of the companies issue transfer checks 
entitling the passenger to continue his ride upon 
any intersecting line without extra charge. 

Hacks and Coaches. — For the benefit of those 
who have occasion to engage any of the above, for 
the transient service of any excursion Ijmg outside 
of the regular routes, or beyond the legal limits 
within which the fixed fare obtains, we subjoin 
the following legal regulations also contained in 
the order and section already quoted on a previous 
page: 

" For a hackney carriage, drawn by more than 
one horse, for four or less j^ersons, when engaged 
by the hour, to be computed for the time occupied 
in going and returning, including detention, $3 for 
the first hour, and $2 for each subsequent hour. 



SA/V FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 203 

*' For a liackney carriage, drawn by one horse, 
for two persons, when engaged by the hour, to be 
occupied in going and returning, including deten- 
tions, $1 50 for the first hour, and $1 for each 
subsequent hour." 

It is hardly necessary to remark, yet it may pre- 
vent misunderstanding to add, that the above rates 
pay for the service of the ivhole carriage, and may 
be equitably divided among the occupants as they 
agree. 

Livery Service. — The liveiy stables of the city 
are numerous, and well-stocked with animals of 
blood and speed, and every form of two or four- 
wheeled vehicles from the substantial, three-seated 
thorough-braced wagon to the elegant or fancy 
single buggy or sulky. The usual rates, at all 
first class stables, are five dollars a day, or a drive 
for a single team, and ten dollars for a double one. 
F.or a very short trip, and a very short time, they 
frequently abate something, and when a team is 
engaged for several days or weeks at once, com- 
monly make the rate lower. For saddle horses the 
price is usually one half that of a single team, that 
is $2 50 for a day or drive — subject to similar re- 
ductions as above. 

On Foot. — If you have the nerve and muscle of 
a man, and are not sadly out of training, by all means 
walk through or about the city and around its 
suburbs. In several places, as, in climbing Tele- 



204 BANCROFT' S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

grapli or any otlier hill, you will liave to walk, and 
then you can. Even our lady visitors might profi- 
tabl}^ emulate the pedestrian performances of their 
English sisters. Provide good easy, wide-bot- 
tomed, low-heeled walking-shoes, boots or gaiters, 
and take the beautiful, windless and dustless 
morning hours for it and, unless your taste is fash- 
ionably j)erverted or your physical energy hoj)e- 
lessly exhausted, you will find it most delightful. 
Among the Scottish Highlands, or in the Swiss 
Alps, you would certainly do it, endure it, enjoy 
it, and subsequently boast of it; why not try it 
here ? 

Suburbs and Vicinity. 

We suppose the visitor to have fairly rested — to 
have walked about a little through the more central 
portion; to have somewhat studied the general 
plan of the city, in view of the larger or shorter 
time which he has to spend in the city, to have 
made up his mind how much he will see, and what 
it shall be. By way of helping his planning and 
sight-seeing, we now catalogue and briefly remark 
upon the more notable points, taken in regular 
order from the most central starting point. We 
offer the following pages as heljoful suggestions to 
those who cannot avail themselves of the personal 
guidance of some resident friend, who can con- 
stantly accompany them to direct their route, and 
verbally explain the details which these printed 



SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 205 

pages attemj^t. If one has not time, or does not 
wish to see anything here set down, he can easily 
omit it, and from the remainder select whatever he 
may chose, transposing, combining, modifying 
and adapting according to his own good pleasure. 

GENERAL CIRCUIT OF THE CITY. 

Commencing at the foot of Market street, thence 
southward, along or over the water front, continu- 
ing around the entire city and returning to the 
point of starting. Also mentioning more distant 
points visible to the spectator looking beyond the 
suburbs : 

The Lumber Yards, Yf harves and Merchant Fleet, 
first attract our notice. Millions of feet of boards, 
plank and timber from the northern coast of this 
State and from Oregon, ranged in immense piles on 
broad and deep piers — alongside of which the 
schooners, brigs and barks of the lumber fleet are 
constantly discharging. 

Thence along Stewart or East street, the latter 
being nearer the water, by large lumber-j^ards, 
boat-shops, blacksmithing and ship-chandling es- 
tablishments, we reach the California and Oregon 
S. S. Co's wharves and slips. The Folsom street 
cars run within five short blocks ; nearer than any 
others. 

Black Diamond Coal Company's Pier. ^-Barges, 
sheds and j)iles of coal, straight from the bowels of 



2o6 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

Mount Diablo, corner Spear and Harrison streets, 
P. B. Cornwall, agent. 

Kincon Point, foot of Harrison street. The 
wharves and filling have quite obliterated the old 
shore line, which originally turning a short corner 
here, received the name "Rincon," which, in Span- 
ish, means simply a corner. 

U. S. Marine Hospital, northwest corner of Har- 
rison and Sjjear. 

P. M. S. S. Co.'s Piers, Docks, Sheds and Slips. 
Waterfront, foot of Brannan and Townsend streets. 
Piers having a total front of 1200 feet, shed 600 
feet long by 250 wide. Steamships over five thou- 
sand tons register and docks built especially for 
them. Capt. W. B. Cox, Superintendent. 

Gas Works, corner of King and Second. The 
other works of the same company, the San Fran- 
cisco Gas Co., are on Howard street, from First 
to Beale. 

C. P. R. R. Co.'s Freight Pier, Depot and Boat. 
Foot of Second street. 

Mission Bay. Foot of Second and Third streets. 
The broad cove lying between South street and 
Potrero ; now fast filling in, esjDCcially beyond, that 
is, south of the Long Bridge. 

Mission Rock.— Off the foot of Third street. Has 
a shanty on it. Used for fishing. 

XJ. S. Shij) Anchorage. — Between foot of Third 
and the Mission Rock, and within a quarter-mile 



SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 207 

radius of the latter. U. S. Eevenue Cutters and 
Coast Survey vessels, chiefly occup}^ it. 

Steamboat Reserves. — lu the docks between 
Third and Fourth and the adjacent ones along the 
south side of the bridge. 

Long Bridge. — From the foot of Fourth street, 
across Mission Bay to Potrero — one mile. Will 
become Kentucky street, when the filling-in makes 
a street of what is now a bridge. 

Yacht Club Building. — East side of Long Bridge, 
one third across. Yachts at moorings near. 

Potrero. — The point at the south end of Long 
Bridge. Spanish for pasture ground. Originally 
a rock}^ ridge. Fast disappearing under houses. 

Glass Works. — Pacific Glass Works, corner Iowa 
and Mariposa streets, four blocks west of bridge. 

Pacific Rolling Mill. — Potrero Point, water front, 
east of bridge. 

Deep Cut, is really Kentuck}' street, brought 
down somewhere near the future grade, by cutting 
through the solid rock, to an average depth of 75 
feet for nearly a fifth of a mile. 

Rope Walk runs under Kentucky street, near the 
north end of the Islais Creek Bridge, which is the 
same street continued across Islais Creek, now a 
solidly planked bridge, seven eighths of a mile long. 

Italian Fishing Fleet and Flakes, on the right of 
the bridge, along the cove-beach just beyond the 
rope-walk. Their Mongolian competitors have their 
boats and beach a little further south. 



2o8 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

South San Francisco is the rising land or ridge 
south of Islais Creek. It is a pleasant suburb, rap- 
idly growing. 

Catholic Orphan Asylum, that large, new wood- 
en building fronting on Connecticut street, nine 
blocks west of the bridge. 

Hunter's Point is the east end of South San 
Francisco, a rocky point in which the Dry Dock, 
dug out of the solid rock, four hundred and twen- 
ty-one feet long, one hundred and twenty feet wide 
at the top, and sixty feet wide at the bottom, which 
is twenty-two feet below mean high water. With 
the Floating Dock, near by, it cost two millions of 
dollars. 

Bay View Race Track, near Railroad Avenue, a 
mile southwest of Islais Bridge One mile around; 
broad, smooth and hard. Bay View House at north 
margin, near west end. 

Visitacion Point and Valley, three quarters of a 
mile beyond the race course; worth driving out to 
see, if you have plenty of time. 

San Bruno Road unites with this railroad avenue 
about half a mile beyond the race course; brings 
one back near 

New Butchertown, corner of Islais Creek Canal 
and Kentucky street. 

Drive back this old San Bruno Road, until you 
come to Twenty-sixth street; along that to Mission; 
down Mission to Seventeenth, out which you may 



SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 209 

drive until you find your way winding and climbing 
up and over the east slopes of the peninsular hills 
along the Ocean House Road, a broad, hard track, 
leading over the hills to the house which names it. 
Opposite Twenty-fourth street is the toll gate, 
where you pay twelve and a half, or twent3'-five 
cents, according to your team. A mile beyond, a 
side gate, free, admits.you to a carriage-way through 
the fields, leading down, three quarters of a mile, 
to Lake Honda, the huge double-reservoir of slop- 
ing-sided masonr}^, covered with cement, and hold- 
ing thirty-five million gallons. This well merits a 
visit. The City Almshouse stands on the hill, 
half a mile south o'f the lake. 

The Small-pox Hosj^ital is the small building 
standing alone on the hill, a third of a mile north 
of the Almshouse. 

Returning to, and resuming the main road, a mile 
southwesterly and then westerly, brings us to the 
Ocean Race Course, securely enclosed, and having 
the usual circuit and surface. 

Opposite this, and half a mile south lies Lake 
Merced, three quarters of a mile long by a fifth of 
a mile wide. That part of it nearer to, and paral- 
lel with the road, is a smaller, nearly separate lake 
called simpl}^ " the Lagoon." 

Ocean House, on a slight sandy knoll, half a 
mile northwest of Lake Merced. 

Pacific Beach. — This is the sandy shore of the 



210 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

" ultimate sea," stretching almost exactly nortli two 
miles to the base of the cliff, up which a well-built 
road carries us a score of rods northwesterly to the 

Cliff House, the grand terminus, or at least way- 
station of all ocean drives. Its broad, covered 
piazza, well-furnished with easy chairs and good 
marine glasses, has been for years the popular ob- 
servatory whence fashion languidly patronizes the 
Pacific, or gazes with momentarj^ interest upon the 

Seal Kocks — three hundred feet from the shore, 
and dotted with lubberly seals, clumsily climbing 
upon the lower rocks, or lazil}^ sunning themselves 
above. 

Farallones — Twenty-five miles seaward from the 
Cliff House — seven sharp-pointed islets break the 
monotony of the w^estern horizon. The highest of 
these rises three hundred and forty feet, and has a 
large lighthouse of the first-class, vfith the finest 
Fresnel light on the coast. 

Point Lobos, a precipitous coast bluff, a third 
of a mile north of the Cliff House, chiefly noted 
as the site of the Signal Station; provided with a 
fine glass and the usual outfit of a marine observa- 
tor}^ Thence along the beach, or the brow of the 
bluff, if you like climbing, by the Helmet Kock, 
whose shape hardly ai)pears from the land, around 
the curve of the shore, whose general direction here 
is northeast, a full mile, to 

Port Point, where stands a doubly-strengthened 



SA.V FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 



and lieavily-mounted fort, yet unnamed, whose 
chief interest founds upon its general resemblance 
to the famous Fort Sumter. 

Lighthouse. — The northwest angle of the fort 
supports a substantial tower, showing a fixed white 
light. From the walls of the fort, or better still, 
from the lighthouse balcony, we look upon and 
across the 

Golden Gate, the connecting strait between the 
Pacific Ocean and San Francisco Bay. It is be- 
tween three and four miles long, from one to two 
miles wide, and over four hundred feet deep. 

Lime Point, the northern inside gate-post — the 
southeastern extremity of Marin county. 

Point Bonita. — The outer or oceanward point of 
the northern shore, nearly two miles west of the 
fort, crowned with a lighthouse. 

Mountain Lake — One mile south of the fort, and 
sending a little rivulet called Lobos Creek westward 
into the Pacific, which it helps to replenish. 

Presidio — Si^anish for garrison or barracks. This 
is nearly a mile southeast of the fort, as we return 
toward the city. Its main features are the exten- 
sive barracks, accommodating several hundred U. S. 
soldiers, who make this their point of arrival and 
departure in going to or coming from the different 
stations to which they may be ordered. Forming 
the parallelogram front is the parade ground, a 
broad, open field, gently falling toward the bav. 



BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 



surrounded by the officers' quarters or the bar- 
racks, and dotted with batteries here and there. 

Black Point. — The water front at the foot of 
Franklin and Gough streets. 

Pioneer Woolen Mills — Corner of Polk and 
Eeade streets. Office, 115 Battery street. 

North Beach — From the foot of Powell* street 
west to Black Point. 

Angel Island, three and a half miles north of 
Black Point, across the bay. 

Alcatraces Island- — A mile and a half north of 
North Beach, off in the bay, heavily fortified, com- 
manding the Golden Gate. 

North Point — AVater front, foot of Kearny street, 
corner of Bay street. 

Sea Wall — AVater front from the foot of Union 
street, southward; a sloping bulkhead of rubble, 
faced with heavier rock, costing $240 a linear foot, 
and a mile and a half long. 

Ferries. — Alameda — Corner of Davis and Pacific 
street. City Front Cars. 

Oakland — Same dock, next slip south. City 
Front Cars. 

Saucelito — Meiggs' Wharf, foot of Powell street. 
North Beach cars. 

San Quentin — Davis street, near Vallejo. City 
Front or Sutter street cars. 

Vallejo — Corner of Front and Vallejo. City 
Front or Sutter street cars. 



SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 213 



HOW TO SEE SAN FRANCISCO AND ITS SURROUNDINGS. 

Brief trips, or short excursions, requiring but a 
few hours each. Short skeleton tours in and about 
the suburbs, suggesting the most interesting points, 
with the walks, rides, drives or sails by which one 
may reach them — the time required and the best 
hours of the day, the amount of walking necessary, 
with the conveniences and cost. 

IN AND ABOUT THE CITY. 

I. Walk up Montgomery street to Telegraph 
Hill. If you don't feel like climbing clear to the 
top, follow the foot-path which winds around about 
two thirds up its east and northeast sloj^es. If 
you go to the top you can go down into — or if you 
take the lower path you will come round into, Lom- 
bard street. Walk down that to Powell; turn to 
your right and follow Powell north to the water 
and Meiggs' wharf, down the wharf if you want 
the bay breeze, and the bay sights from a lower 
level; come back — take the South Park cars; ride 
up Powell by Washington Square, up Stockton, 
down Washington — get out at the upper corner of 
the Plaza, walk diagonally across, notice the old 
City Hall on your left, stroll up Kearny to Cali- 
fornia or Bush, down which you descend one block 
to Montgomery. 

II. Chinese Quarters. — Sacramento street, from 
Kearny to Dupont, along Dupont to Pacific, down 



214 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

Pacific to Stockton, to Jackson, down Jackson 
to Kearn}^; cast your eyes down the little alleyways 
and courts which cut up the blocks along these 
streets. Look at these signs! " Hop Yik, Wo 
Ki, Tin Yuk, Hop Wo, Chung Sun, Cheung 
Kuong, Hang Ki, Yang Kee, Shang Tong, 
Shun Wo," that last would'nt be a bad one 
to go over the door of " civilized" rum-hole. 
*' Wing On Tsiang', Wung Wo Shang, Kwong On 
Cheang," and scores of others. Most are personal 
names, some are business mottoes. They are 
generally phonographic, that is, you pronounce 
them according to their spelling. Here and there 
one suggests fun. For instance, "Man Li." Well, 
why not a Chinaman as well as a white man? Has 
the superior race the monopoly of lying? That 
sign is certainly creditable to the Chinese female; 
it says Man Li; not icoman lie. Not far thence a 
very appropriate successor finishes the logical se- 
quence, "Hung Hi." Certainly, why not? That's 
what ought to be done to any merchant who will 
lie. Any Man Li, should.be " Hung Hi." These 
celestials certainly have no bad idea of the eternal 
fitness of things. What would happen to our 
Melican * merchants if that rule were rigidly ap- 
plied ? It would'nt be much trouble to take the 
next census. This is the out-door glance by daylight. 
If you want a more thorough exploration by day or 
by night, call on special officer Duffield, (Greorge 



SAN FRAA CISCO AND VICINITY. 215 

W.) at 1,107 Montgomery street, wlio knows tlieir 
haunts and ways, and can sliow 3'Ou all you'll care 
to see. His long experience among tliem has also 
acquainted them with him to such a degree, that 
they allow him to enter and pass through their 
houses and rooms whence another might be shut 
out. In fact, he is their special officer, paid by the 
Chinese merchants to guard their property, and is 
em|)hatically the man to have for an escort. He 
can take you into their gambling saloons, into their 
pigeon-hole lodging houses where rag-pickers, beg- 
gars and thieves fill the air with opiiun smoke, then 
shove themselves, feet foremost, into a sqTiare box 
of- a pigeon-hole, more like a coffin than a couch. 
He can guide you into crooked, narrow, labyrin- 
thine passages through which you can just squeeze, 
and which you could never find nor enter without 
guidance; into inner courts, around which, and in 
the midst of which, stand old rickety, tumble-down, 
vermin-haunted hives of wooden tenements v/hich 
rise through three or four stories, all alive with the 
swarming lazzaroni, packed into the smallest and 
dirtiest of rooms, and huddled into every dark and 
filthj^ corner. 

These are the lowest and worst of their race; the 
infernal celestials, among whom the officer will not 
take a w^oman at all, and where it would not be safe 
for any man to attempt entrance alone. The aj)- 
proaches are so ingeniously constructed and so art- 



2i6 BANCROFT'S TOURIST\S GUIDE. 

fully disguised, and tlie passages wind among each 
other so intricately, and intersect each other so per- 
plexingly, that not one in a thousand could ever 
find the beginning, and hardly one in ten thousand 
could discover the end. 

' ' For %i:iays that are dark, 
And for tricks tliat are vain, 
The heathen Chinee is peculiar ; 
Which the same I would rise to explain." 

The stranger must not conclude, however, that 
such as these make up the bulk of the Chinese who 
come to us. On the contrary, these are the lowest 
and vilest, the dregs and settlings of their social 
system; no more fit to be taken as samples of their 
nation than the low, whisky-drinking, shillaly- 
swinging, skull-cracking, vote-repeating Irish, who 
now govern New York, are to be taken as fair t^q^es 
of the " finest pisantry undher the sun," or consid- 
ered as a representative of the educated Irishman, 
than whom a warmer-hearted, freer-handed, more 
courteous-mannered gentleman one can hardly meet 
in a thousand miles. 

So the middle classes of the Chinese are cleanly, 
sober, industrious and honest, while their leading 
merchants, of whom we have several fine represen- 
tatives in the city, are models of business integrity 
and social courtesy. Enter one of their establish- 
ments, with proper introduction, and you shall en- 
counter the most perfect politeness throughout the 



SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 217 

interview, and carry away the impression tliat you 
were never more heartily welcomed and generously 
entertained, according to their custom, of course, 
by any strangers, in your life. 

And one very notable thing should also be said 
of their street deportment; you ma}^ walk through 
their quarter every day and night for a month, and 
not see a single drunken man of their own race. If 
you encounter one at all, he is likely to belong to 
the "superior race." 

Your survey of the Chinese quarter would be in- 
complete without a visit to their temples or joss 
houses. One of these stands off Pine, just above 
Kearny. They are also used as hospitals. 

Should you wish an}'' souvenir in the shape of 
their j)eculiarly ingenious manufacture, you may 
find them at the Chinese or Japanese bazaars. 

III. Third Street. — Five and a half blocks to 
South Park; thence three blocks to the water; 
along Channel street to Long Bridge. Here we 
may take the Bay View cars, ride across the Mission 
Bay, visit the Kolling Mills, or keep on through 
the Deep Cut, over Islais Creek bridge, through 
South San Francisco, to Bay View track, whence 
'busses carry us to Hunter's Point and the Dry 
Dock. Best time, morning, unless some shijD is 
going into dock on the high tide. Fare in 'bus, 
twenty-five cents each. 



2i8 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

IV. — Watee FKONT-Soutli of Market. -Walk along 
East or Stewart St., by U. S. Marine Hospital, to E. 
M.S.S. Co.'s shiiDs and docks andC. P.E.E. Freight 
piers and depot. Thus far no cars. At foot of 
Brannan take cars, ride up that to Third, down 
Third, by South Park, to Howard — along Howard 
to Second, along Second to Market again. Or you 
can walk from the water up Second to Market 
again. Or you can walk from the water up Second 
through the cut to Harrison, climb the bridge-stairs, 
walk down Harrison to First or Fremont, turn left, 
and come back by the Shot Tower, Foundries, and 
Factories to Market. 

V. — Water Front — North of Market. — No cars 
here. Stroll northerly by the corners of the different 
streets, along the heads of the different piers, 
among the grain and produce boats, river steamer 
docks and ferry slips, around to North Point, with 
its bonded warehouses, iron clippers, and sea wall, 
thence back Sansome to Broadway, whence cars 
take you again to the centre. 

VI. — Southwestern Suburbs. — From corner west 
front of Grand Hotel, take city cars out Mission, by 
fine new church, new Mint, to Woodward's Gar- 
dens; thence to Sixteenth; up that three blocks, 
westerly, to Dolores street, w^here stands the old 
Mission Church, the site of the first permanent set- 
tlement of San Francisco ; out Dolores; south two 
blocks, to Jewish Cemeteries; back by same way to 



SAN FRANCISCO AND VICINITY. 219 

Sixteenth ; down tliat to Mission Woolen Mills ; 
thence home by Folsom street or Howard street 
cars, either of which brings you to Market street. 

VII. — Western Suburbs and beyond. — From 
Montgomery up Sutter, by cars, or up Bush by feet 
or wheels. Either street carries you westerly to 
Laurel Hill, in which elegant monuments and 
mausoleums merit more than passing notice; thence 
east three blocks to Lone Mountain and the ceme- 
teries grouped about its base, and upon its lower 
slopes — the Odd Fellows', west; the Masonic, south, 
and the Calvary north and east. Out the Cliff 
House Road — you'll need horse probably, or can 
take the 'bus for 25 cents each way — by the Race 
Track or Driving Park, to the Cliff House; look at 
the Seal Rocks, Seals, Ocean andFarallones; thence 
south along Pacific Beach to Ocean House, whence 
in by Ocean Road or the new Central Road by 
Lake Peralta and Lake Honda. The old Ocean 
Road brings you back through the Mission ; the 
new one, in by Lone Mountain again. 

VIII. — Northwestern Suburbs and beyond. — 
Up Geary, Post or Sutter to Van Ness Avenue ; 
thence twelve blocks north through Spring Valley, 
b}^ cars from Broadway west to Harbor View, Pre- 
sidio and Fort Point. Returning from the Presi- 
dio, keep towards the Bay ; come around by Black 
Point, whence, skirting the water-front through 
five or six rough blocks, you reach the foot of Ma- 



220 BANCROFT'S TOURIST'S GUIDE. 

son or Powell street, and find otlier cars waiting to 
bring you home. 

The routes above suggested, are by no means 
exhaustive, but will take one to or near the most 
noted points. If the tourist can have the personal 
guidance and escort of some well-posted friend, so 
much the better. In the absence of such friend, or 
even to accompany him, we respectfully submit our 
little pocket substitute. 



I N r> E X 



PAGE. 

Alcatraz 19 

Alempo 76 

Angel Island 19 

Bell Valley 81 

Benicia 28 

Bloomfield 94 

Blue Lakes 80 

Bodega 94 

Borax Lake 73 

Brown's Valley 34 

Cache Creek , 73 

California Pacilic B. R. . . 22 

Calistoga 39 

Carneros Valley 100 

Carquinez, Straits of ... . 20 

Chile's Valley 38 

Clear Lake 68 

Clear Lake Mountains ... 73 

Cloverdale 97 

Conn Valley 38 

Coyempo 76 

Coyote Valley 72 

Devil's Grist Mill 58 

Devil's Inkstand 58 

Donahue 88 

Duncan's Mill 94 



I'AGP-. 

Feliz Valley 82 

Feuston 94 

Fisherman's Bay 94 

Fisk's Mill 94 

Fort Boss 94 

Foss Station 54 

Geysers 47 

Geyser Peak 54 

Goat Island 19 

Golden Gate 19 

Guenoc 72 

Guillico Valley 93 

Haichica Valley 100 

Harbin Sx)riugs 72 

Healdsbv.rg 95 

Hog's Back 55 

Howell Mountain 38 

Kelseyville 76 

Lakeport 78 

Little Geysers 61 

Loconome Valley 72 

Lone Valley 76 

Lower Lake 73 

Mare Island 26 

Mendocino City 99 



INDEX. 



PAGE. 

Mendocino County 78 

' Middletown 72 

Mount Lincoln 40 

Mount St. Helena 47' 

Mountain of Fire 60 

Moyacamas Mountains . . 93 

Napa City 31 

Napa Junction 29 

Napa Soda Springs 35 

Napa Valley 29 

Oak Knoll 36 

Oakville 37 

Olema 87 

Petaluma 91 

Petrified Forest 45 

Pluton Eiver . . 56 

Point San Pablo 19 

Pope Valley , 32 

Eoss's Landing 87 

St. Helena 37 

Salt Point 94 

Sanel 82 

San Francisco Ill 

Alcatraz 19 

Angel Island 19 

Approaches to City .... 123 

Baths 138 

Bay View 208 

Buildings — Business . . 173 
Public .... 164 

Chinese Quarter 213 

Churches 177 



PAGE. 

San Francisco — Continued. 

Cliff House 210 

Colleges 185 

Conveyances 129 

Drives 161 

Dry Dock 208 

Excursions about City . 208 

Farallones 210 

Fort Point 210 

Gymnasiums 144 

Halls 141 

. Hills 190 

Historical Ill 

Horse Cars 200 

Hospitals, Asylums . . . 183 

Hotels ' 132 

How to get about 200 

Hunter's Point 208 

Libraries 164 

Lodging Houses 137 

Manufactories 175 

Melodeons 140 

Museums 140 

North Beach 212 

Places of Amusement . . 138 

Plan of City 118 

Potrero . . .' 207 

Presidio 211 

Private Residences 190 

Promenades 157 

Restaurants 137 

Schools 187 

Sea Wall 212 

Seal Rock 210 



INDEX. 



223 



PAGE. 

San Francisco — ContiJiued. 
Situation and Extent . . 115 

Skating Einks 146 

Squares and Parks .... 157 
Suburbs and Vicinity . . 204 

Telegrapli Hill 190 

Theatres 139 

Verba Buena 112 

Verba Buena Island . . . 123 

San Pablo Bay 19 

San Quentin ... 84 

San Rafael 85 

Santa Rosa 93 

Santa Rosa Valley 92 

Saucelito 83 

Scott Valley 80 

Sebastopol 94 

Seigler Springs 74 

Skagg's Springs 96 

Soda Bay 77 



PAGE. 

Sonoma 100 

Steamboat Geyser 58 

Sulphur Bank 73 

Summit 55 

Suscol 30 

Tamalpais 86 

Timber Cove 94 

Toll House 72 

Tomales 88 

Ukiah City 81 

Uncle Sam 77 

Vallejo 21 

Vallejo White Sulphur Sp 27 

White Sulphur Springs . . 38 

Windsor 95 

Witches' Caldron 59 

Yokayo Valley 81 

Yountville 36 



224 MEMORANDA. 



MEMORANDA. 225 



226 MEMORANDA. 



MEMORANDA. 



227 MEMORANDA. 



a. l. bancroft & company, 
Stationers and Manufacturers, 

No. 721 Market Street, San Krancisco. 



Specimens of Engraving 

For Wedding and Visiting Cards, Monograms, Die Sinking, Color 
Stamping and Illuminating. 



No. I. Wedding Monograrr.. No. 2. Seal. No. 3. Illuminated Monogram. No. 
4. Monogram in Color. No 5. Crest. No. 6. Fancy Die. 



.<JL. .■llJ.dbldl 



0t$. |»$.(A/^»$tmijs?, 






'^.^'^Y"./i\,^^^ 






c-^. 










mmi TO ADVEETISEES. 



Calistoga. 

Calistoga Hot Springs Hotel, 
E. B. Badlam. - - xii 

Calistoga and Lakeport Stage 
Line, C. RIcGreer - - xvi 

Lodi Stables, G.B.Clifford, viii 

National Hotel, F. Sieben, xiii 

Clovkrdale. 

Cloverdale Hotel, T. S. Col- 
vin .... xxxi 

Cloverdale Livery Stable, Hall, 
Curtis & Brush - - xxxii 

Cloverdale and Mendocino 
Stage Line - - xxxiii 

Emerson House, P. M. Emer- 
son .... xxxiv 

Geysers. 

Geyser Stage Line.Foss & Con- 
nelly ... - xiv 

Great Geyser Springs, J. C. 
Susenbeth - - . xv 

Healdsburg. 

Healdsburg and Santa Rosa 
Livery Stables, Emerson.Haw- 
kins & Co. ... XXX 

Sotoyome House, B, C. 
Wright ... xxix 

Lakeport. 

Lakeport Hotel, Mrs. S. V. 
Chapman ... xix 

Lower Lake. 

Virginia Hotel, R. H. Law- 
rence .... xvii 

Modesto. 

Ross House, J. Cole - xlviii 



Napa Citv. 

Metropolitan Stable, G. B. 

Clifford ... viii 

Napa Hotel, J. S. Hogan - x 
Revere House, J. W. Sharp vii 
S. E. Smith, Board . ix 

Navarra. 

Navarra Hotel, Moore Bros. 
xxxiii 

Petaluma. 

American Hotel Mrs. Wm. 

Ordway - - - xxv 

California Livery Stable, H . B. 

Hasbrouck ... xxvi 

Pescadero. • 

Hotel, Chas. Kinsey, Ixxviii 

Routes of Travel. 

California Pacific R.R. Co. Ixxi 
Central Pacific R. R. Co., Yo- 

semite route Ixxii — Ixxiii 

Cloverdale and Mendocino, 

J. D. Carr & Co. . xxxiii 
Geysers, Calistoga route, xiv 
San Francisco & North Pacific 

R.R. Co. - - - xxiii 
Yosemite, Coulterville route 

- xlvii 
Yosemite, Mariposa route Ixxiii 

Sanel. 

Sanel House, J. Sloper - xxii 

San Rafael. 

Tamalpais Hotel, R. Pardow 

- xxiv 

Santa Rosa. 

Fashion Livery Stable, J. P. 

Clark ... xxviii 

KessingHotel, F. H.Coe xxvii 



INDEX TO ADVERTISERS. 



Seigler Springs. 

Hotel,Snodgrass& Boone xviii 

Skaggs' Hot Springs. 

Hotel, B. Frank Tucker xxxv 

San Francisco. 

A. L. Bancroft & Company, 

Books and Stationery Cover 
A. L. Bancroft & Company, 

Pianos - . - - xl 
Blake, Kobbins & Co., Paper 

----- xliii 
Bradley & Rulofson, Photo- 
graphs ... - xliv 
California Cotton Growers and 

Manufacturers Assoc. xxxvi 
California Ink Company, G. L. 

Faulkner - - - xli 

California Silk Manufacturing 

Company - - xxxviii 

Eagle Pencils - Ixix 

R. Eitner, Engraver, Ixxiv 

Jos. Figel, Merchant Tailor Ixxix 
L, P. Fisher, Advertising 

Agent - - - Lxiii ' 

G. Groezinger, California 

Wines - - . xxxix 

Hobbs, Gilmore & Co. - Ixxii 
J. Isaac & Co., ' tationery xlii 
McAfee, Spiers & Co., Boiler 

Makers -, - - xlvi 

J. C. Meussdorffer, Hats xlv 

Miller & Hall - - Ixv 

Occidental Hotel, - - Ixx 
Overland Monthly, J. H. Car- 
many & Co. - - - li 
Geo. T. Pracy - Ixiv 

H. Rosekrans & Co., Hard- 
ware - - - xxxvii 
Sherman & Hyde, Music 

Dealers . - - Ixxv 
Thurnauer & Zinn, Willow- 
ware - - - - Hi 
Woodward's Gardens - Ixxx 



Ukiah. 

Fashion Livery Stables, Smith 

& Ramsey - . - xxi 
Ukiah House, W. G. Alban xx 

Vallejo. 

Brownlee's Livery Stable iv 

Capitol Hote-, Wm. Likins iii 
Frisbie House, J. M. Staples 

&Co. - - - - vi 
Vallejo Springs - - v 

White Sulphur Springs. 

Hotel, Alstrom &Schoneu-ald 

xi 

Boston. 

And. T. Graves, Books xlix 

Henry Hoyt, New Prize Books 

lix 

Lee & Shepard, Schwartz 

Novels - - - - Ivi 
Lee & Shepard, Books of 

Travel - - - - Ivii 
Loring's R. R. Novels - liv 
H. A. Young & Co., Books 1 

New York. 

Appleton's Guide Books Ixviii 
Eagle Pencils - - Ixix 

Gillott's Pens Inside Cover 

Harper's Periodicals - Ixii 
J. S. Redfield, Books - Iviii 
S. R. Wells, Phrenology Ixxvi 
Shipmans' Patent File - liii 
Spencerian Pens,Ivison, Blake- 
man & Taylor - - Ixi 

Palmyra. N. Y, 

Globe Printing Presses - Ix 

Philadelphia. 

Chas. Desilver, School Books 

- Iv 
Kay & Brother, Publishers, 
&c- - . . Ixxvii 

Springfield, Mass. 

Webster's Dictionaries Ixvi 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 



THE CAPITOL HOTEL. 



WILLIAM LIKINS, Proprietor. 



Corner of Virginia and Branciforte Streets, 
VALLEJO. 



This Hotel is built in modem style and the rooms are large, 
airy and pleasant, and are furnished in a style to please the most 
fastidious. 

EXCELLENT ACCOMMODATIONS 

Are warranted to permanent and transient guests. The location 
of the House is within two or three minutes' walk of the landing 
of the San Francisco and Napa boats. The different stages arrive 
and depart daily from the door. 

The undersigned, who has long been known to the California 
Public, especially in this part of the State (having opened the 
above establishment over two years ago) assures his friends and 
the public that nothing shall be wanting on his part to render 
the Capitol Hotel a FIRST CLASS HOUSE, and in every 
respect worthy of public patronage. The Table, Bar and Room 
Comforts shall testify to his desire to render comfortable all who 
favor his house with their patronage. 

WILLIAM LIKINS. 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 



BROWNLEE'S 

LIVERY STABLES 

Virginia Street, Near Metropolitan Hotel, 

VALLEJO. 



JOHN BROWNLEE, - Proprietor. 




THE VERY BEST LIVERY HORSES AND THE 
MOST ELEGANT VEHICLES CAN BE 
. HAD AT ALL TIMES. 



Horses boarded, and the best care and attention bestowed. 
Parties furnished with elegant carriages and careful drivers 
at short notice. 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 



VALLEJO SPRINGS. 



These Springs are situated three miles from Vallejo. 
THE WATER camiot be excelled in 

MEDICINAL QUALITIES. 

THE CLIMATE IS DELIGHTFUL. 

The grounds have been elaborately laid out and are 
very attractive; and the proprietors take pleasure in 
announcing to the public that those visiting this. Resort 
will find ever3'thing that is conducive to 

PLEASURE AND COMFORT. 

The Table is laid in first-class style, and every atten- 
dance that is oifered by the Best Hotels of the State is 
guaranteed. 

The Bar is furnished with the FINEST WINES, 
LIQUORS AND SEGARS. 

||^g=^^ First- Class Stable attached. 

A stage and carriages connect morning and evening 
with the Vallejo boats and cars of the California Pacific 
Railroad, conveying passengers to and from the Springs 
at a moderate charge. 



vi TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 

FRISBIE HOUSE, 

SOUTH VALLEJO, CAL. 



J. M. STAPLES & CO., 

PROPRIETORS. 



This Hotel is finely furnished throughout, 
has accommodations for one hundred and 
fifty guests; situated opposite the Rail- 
road Station. Time to San Francisco, by 
steamer, i| hours; to Sacramento, by rail, 
2| hours; and to Calistoga Springs, by 
rail, 2 hours. 

Board per day, $2.50, and per week, $10. 
Parlors extra. 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. vii 



REVERE HOUSE 



JOHN W. SHARP, Proprietor. 



Second Street, opposite Court House, 
NAPA CITY, 



ONLY FIRST-CLASS HOUSE IN NAPA CITY.. 



THIS HOUSE is fitted up in superior style, and is 
now open for the reception of Permanent and Transient 
Guests. It is built in modern style, and the rooms are 
large, airy and pleasant. 

THE BAR is well supplied. THE TABLE shall be 
second to none in the State. The farming community 
will find at this House the best of accommodations at 
reasonable prices. 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 



GEO. B. CLIFFORD, 

METROPOLITAN 

Feed and Livery Stables^ 

MAIN ST., ABOVE FIRST, NAPA. 

AND 

Lodi Stables, Calistoga, 

G. W. STEVES; Agent. 

All kinds of Carriages, Buggies and fine Saddle Horses for 
hire on reasonable terms. The most skillful and careful drivers 
employed, and every effort made to give perfect satisfaction to 
all. Attention paid to Boarding Horses. Excursion parties, 
etc., conveyed to any part at lowest rates. 



Calistoga and Harbin Springs 

STAGE LINE. 

Stage leaves Calistoga on Monday, Wednesday and Friday 
if passengers offer, returning on alternate days, connecting with 
the noon train for San Francisco and Sacramento City. 

G. B. CLIFFORD. 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 



BOARD AT NAPA 



MR.& MRS.S. E.SMITH, 

Corner Third and Randolph Streets, 
NAPA CITY, 

Can accommodate a few boarders from the 
city. 

Terms — Ten Dollars per Week. 

Children and servants half price. 

A large white two story frame house, 
large yard filled with shrubbery, the house 
newly furnished, neat and clean, and very 
accessible to the city. 

Particular attention will be paid to the 
comfort of Pfuests. 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVipRTISER. 



NAPA HOTEL 

MAIN ST.: NAPA CITY, 



JOHN S. HOG AN, - Proprietor. 



This old established and popular House has been 
greatly improved and placed in complete order for the 
accommodation of the traveling public. 

Guests can be furnished with elegant, airy and well 
furnished rooms. 

THE TABLE is supplied with every substantial and 
delicacy attainable. 

THE BAR is provided with only the Choicest Brands 
of Wines, Liquors and Cigars. 

The whole establishment is under the personal super- 
vision of the owner and proprietor, whose long 
experience enables him to cater successfully to the wants 
of all his patrons. 

GOOD ESTABLISHMENT AND REASONABLE 
PRICES. 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 



WHITE SULPHUR 

SPRINGS HOTEL. 
ALSTROM & SCHONEWALD, 

Proprietors. 



White SiilpMir Canon, Napa Co., tivo miles west of St. Helena. 



The proprietors of this popular estabhshment beg 
leave to announce to the Traveling Public that they 
have made extensive improvements upon the grounds 
and buildings, and are prepared to accommodate guests 

IN ELEGANT STYLE. 

Every appointment of this house is on a scale com- 
mensurate with the beauty of the location, the salubrity 
of the springs, and the wants of its patrons. Separate 

Elegantly Purnisked Cottages 

are provided for families and parties. 

Beautiful drives are found in the vicinity. Fine 
Livery Horses and ELEGANT CARRIAGES fur- 
nished for the accommodation of guests. 

Regular connection, over a hne road, by stages, each 
day, with the trains of the Valley Railroa.d at St. Helena. 



The White Sulphur Springs are distant from . San 
Francisco, 57 miles-; from Vallejo, 34 miles; from 
Napa City, 18 miles; St. Helena, 2 miles. 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 



Calistoga Springs 

HOTEL. 



HOT MINERAL SPRINGS, 
or the Little Geysers. 

Napa County, California. 



THE LESSEE of this popular watering place and summer resort would 
announce to his friends and the public, that the Hotel is now open for 
the reception of visitors. 

Conveniences.— The Hotel and surroundings, including Family Cot- 
tages, Swimming Bath, Chemical, Steam, Vapor, Tub, Mud and Shower 
Bath, have been thoroughly renovated and enlarged. 

Skating and Dancing Hall.— A Spacious Hall, 60 x 90 feet has been 
added to the numerous attractions of the x'»lace. 

Stage Connections,— The renowned Foss & Connelly's Stage Line 
leaves Calistoga Hotel diiiy for the Geyser Springs, one of the most re- 
markable places in the world. 

The Peteified Fouest is situated but a short ride from the Hotel, A 
Grotto has been built in front of the Hotel, made entirely of the Petrified 
Wood, without uails or mortar. Specimens of the Petrifications given to 
all visitors. 

Swimming Bath. The spacious Swimming Bath, supplied with warm 
sulphur water, is one of the features of the place, and the most timid lady 
can learn to swim with little practice. 

Inducements to Sportsmen. — Grizzly, Brown and Cinnamon Bear, 
Deer, and every sijecies of wild game, are to be found within ten miles of 
Calistoga, and the streams from ihe adjacent hills abound with Mountain 
Trout. 

An important advantage is the Telegraph connecting the Hotel with 
every part of the State and overland, 

E. B. BADLAM, 

Proprietor. 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. xiii 

National Hotel, 

CALISTOGA. 



P, SIEBEN, - - Proprietor. 



Terms S2 a day, IS8 to |io a week. 

The House is newly furnished and pos- 
sesses every requirement for the copifort 
and convenience of its guuests. 

Superior acco7nmodatio7is for Families. 

A wagon with the 'name of the Hotel, 
will convey passengers to and from the 
Station free of charge. 

General Stage office for all parts of the 
upper country. 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 



TO THE GEYSERS ! 



Vallejo and Calistoga Route. 

Parties desiring to visit the wonderful and celebrated Geyser 
Springs, should take the 

STEAMER "CAPITOL" 

For Calistoga Via Vallejo, which leaves the foot of Front Street, 
San Irancisco, at 8 A. M. and 4 P. M., daily, excepting Sunday, 
when it leaves at 8.30 only. 

OUR STAGES 
Leave EVERY MORNING, and also on the ARRIVAL of the 
MORNING TRAINS at Calistoga, about 12 M., 

DIRECT FOR THE GEYSERS, 
Over the New Road, one of the most romantic and picturesque 
in the world. 



Petaluma and Healdsburg Route, 
the steamer "sacramento" 

Leaves JACKSON STREET WHARF, San Francisco, DAILY, 
at 8.30; Sundays also, at 8.30, A.M., for Donahue Cars ; thence 
to Petaluma and Santa Rosa; and thence (until the completion of 
the raih'oad) by stage to Healdsburg, where our Stages are in 
readiness to convey them to the Geysers over the old road and 
the celebrated "Hog's Back."' 

From either road a fine view is obtained of the Russian Valley, extending 
for many miles. 

Passengers desiring to go by one route and return by the other can do so 
at the same cost. 

No pains will be spared on our part to make the trip a pleasant one. 

Maps of both routes, and any further information may be obtained at our 
office, 214 Montgomery Street, opposite the Russ House. 

FOSS & CONNELLY, 

Stage Proprietors. 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 



THE GREAT 

GEYSER SPRINGS 

of California. 



THESE celebrated Springs are the greatest natural curiosity in the world, 
and are reached by the 

NAPA VALLEY ROUTE AND THE RUSSIAN 
RIVER VALLEY ROUTE. 

For particulars of these routes, see descriptio7i in body of this Guide. 

The Medicinal and Curative Properties of the Geyser Springs are admitted 
to be equal, if not superior, to Saratoga, Baden-Baden, Aix-la-Chapel, Wies- 
baden, or Homburg. The Scenery is wild, picturesque, and grand in the 
extreme, and finer than that of the Lower Alps. 

The Pluton, or Great Sulphur Creek, which runs by the Geyser Hotel 
is well supplied with mountain itrout ; and the hills abound with deer, and 
other game. 

THE HOTEL 

Is a large, two-story building, with spacious verandahs surrounding it, above 
and below, and has been newly furnished. New steam and sulphur bath- 
houses have been erected, and a large stable has been built. Private 
Teams can easily and safely drive over the new road from Calistoga, and at 
the Geysers will find an abundance of good feed for their horses. 

SADDLE HORSES, 

For ladies and gentlemen, are always on hand, at reasonable prices. 

A Good Table is kept at the Hotel, and the best of Liquors and Cigars 
will be found at the bar. ' The rooms are comfortable, and the beds are all 
new and provided with spring mattresses. 

Board and lodging per day, $3 00 ; board and lodging, per week, $17 50 ; 
single meals, each. $1 50. Baths, 25c. Visiting the Geyser Canons, for each 
person, $1.00. Children under ten years of age, half price. 

jg@="Visitors are requested not to pay the Guides, as they are furnished by 
the Hotel, free of charge. 

Fare from San Franciso to Calistoga, per steamer and cars, $3 50. Stages 
from there to the Geysers, $6 00 per passage. 

J. C. SUSENBETH. 

p. S.— For further particulars, inquire at the office of J. S. POLACK, Esq., 
Room No. I, N. W. corner of Jackson and Montgomery Streets, San Fran- 
cisco. 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 



New Arrangement. 

The undersigned, proprieior of the Lakeport and 
Calistoga Stage Line, announces that from and after this 
date, the 

Regular U. S. Mail Line, 

Carrying the Expresses will run between 

Calistoga and Lakeport, 

TRI-WEEKLY, 
Connecting with the evening train of cars at Calistoga. 



Leaves Lakeport at 4 o'clock, A. M,, for Calistoga, via Kel- 
SEY Creek, Lower Lake, and Guexoc, on Mondays, Wednes- 
days and Fridays, arriving at Calistoga, in time for passengers to 
take the evening train for San Francisco. 

Leaves Calistoga for Guenoc, Lower Lake, Kelsey Creek, 
Lakeport, and Ukiah, at 8 o'clock, a. m., Tuesdays, ^J'hurs- 
days and Saturdays. 

WAY OR THROUGH TICKETS 

Can be procured of "Wells, Fargo & Co.'s Agents at Lakeport, 
Kelsey, Guenoc, Lower Lake, and Calistoga. 

IV. M. DAVY. General Agent. 

Thirty-five pounds of baggage allowed each passenger. Or- 
ders promptly attended to 

CHARLES McGREER, 

Proprietor. 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 



Virginia Hotel. 

[Stage House) 
Lower Lake, Lake Co., Cal. 



R, H. LAWRENCE, Proprietor. 



Returning thanks to the public for former 
favors, would respectfully solicit a continu- 
ance of the same. 

Plenty of Fishing Tackle, and a neat sail- 
boat for the accomodation of Guests, and 
good Livery Turnouts to be had in the town 
at moderate charges. 

This House is directly on the nearest and 
best route to the lately discovered but 
already celebrated ''Bartlett's Sprifigs,'' 
twenty-five miles from this place. 

Give us a call. 

R. H. LAWRENCE. 



xviii TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 



SEIGLER SPRINGS 



THE PUBLIC HOUSE at these celebrated Springs lias undergone 
important alterations ; extensive porticos have been erected and the whole 
supplied with new furniture and is now ready for the accommodation of 
visitors. 

These Mineral Springs are situated in Seigler Valley, Lake County, a 
region of unrivalled scenery, the center of a cluster of the greatest 
natural curiosities in the world, and within a few miles of the Quicksilver 
Mines, Sulphur Bank, Borax Lake, Clear Lake and the Geysers. 

Tourists pronounce this the most beautiful natural location for 
Mineral Springs in the State. 

At Seigler Springs a soft, clear, Italian-like climate greets the traveler, 
and the summer air is healthful and everywhere laden with the delicious 
fragrance of the fir, cedar and lofty pine . 

Our Hot Springs are CHALYBEATE and Saline, containing minerals, 
Alterative and Tonic, and the ONLY VALUABLE CHALYBEATE SPRINGS 
known in the State. 

When used as a beverage, or for bathing purposes, these waters 
enter the blcJod and visit every portion of the system, opening obstruc- 
tions that have existed, perhaps for years. Among the diseases cured 
and relieved are the following: Agues, Intermittent Fevers, Neuralgia, 
Rheumatism in all its forms, Palsy, Liver Complaint, Dyspepsia, Old 
Sores, Eruptions, Scrofula. Local Diseases, Female Diseases, General 
Debility, and in all cases in which a TONIC OR INVIGORATING 
TREATMENT is required. The hot Chalybeate waters when drank cold 
possess excellent purgative qualities. 

We have Ground Baths, and large, commodious Bathing Rooms, so 
regulated that persons can use our Mineral Baths at all temperatures, 
from as hot as can be borne to the coldest shower bath. 

Gentlemen fond of exercise will find game abounding on hill and 
mountain, and our streams filled with the choicest Trout. 

Route— There are good roads from the adjoining counties leading to 
Seigler Springs and a daily stage from Oalistoga, connecting with Seigler 
Junction, and from thence by hack to the Springs; also, private convey- 
ance can be had at all hours, at the Lodi Livery Stables, CaUstoga, (on 
reasonable terms) for this point or any other in this part of the State. 

P. SNODGRASS, , T..._„,ietors. 



J. T. BOONE, 



f- Proprl 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. xi> 



Lakeport Hotel 

LAKE COUNTY, . 

MRS. S. V. CHAPMAN, 



PROPRIETRESS. 



Delightfully situated on the border of the 
Lake, where boats with or without oarsmen 
may at all times be hired at low rates. 

Good fishing and shooting. 

The House has been newly furnished and 
refitted throughout. 

Every attention paid to the comfort of 



our ofuests. 



Mr. Howard P. Wells, the owner of the 
property, devotes his personal attention to 
the requirements of visitors. 

Board, $2 a day; $7 a week. 



XX TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 

• 

UKIAH HOUSE 



W. G. ALBAN, - - Proprietor. 



Having leased this well known and popular Hotel 
and Boarding House, I am prepared to accommodate 
the traveling public or regular boarders more comfort- 
ably than any establishment this side of the Bay. 

All the rooms in the house have been and are now 
being 

RE-FITTED AND RE-FURNISHED 

and no pains will be spared to keep them clean, and 
render the guest home comforts and good living. 



Call and see for yourselves at the old sta7id. 



CORNER MAIN AND STANDLEY STS. 

UKIAH CITY. 



TOURIST'S GUU3E ADVERTISER. 



FASHIOR 

LIVERY STABLES, 

STATE ST,, URIAH CITY, 




Having leased this new and commodious building, 
we are now prepared to keep 200 head of horses. 

Bttggies, Carriages a7id Horses, 

to let at reasonable rates. 

Horses boarded by the day, week or month, and the 
best care and attention given to all stock entrusted to 
our care. 

SMITH & RAMSEY, 

In connection with the Stable we have a splendid 
pair of FAIRBANKS' SCALES. Hay wagons and stock 
weighed at reasonable rates. Give us a call. 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 



SANEL HOUSE, 



JAMES SLOPER, Proprietor. 



BOARD, gi A DAY; S5 A WEEK. 



Sanel is situated in the Russian Valley, on the stage 
road between Cloverdale and Ukiah, seventeen miles 
from Cloverdale and fourteen miles from Ukiah. 

The country around is extremely healthy and abounds 
in game of every description; deer, bear, quails, &c., &c.; 
also, good fishing. 

Every attention will be paid to the comfort of those 
who patronize my House. 



SODA SPRINGS FOUR MILES NORTH. 



Particular attention to the accommodation of Hunting 
Parties. 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 



SAN FRANCISCO AND 

North Pacific Railroad Co. 



NEW ROUTE! QUICK TIME!! 



THE SAN FRANCISCO AND NORTH PACIFIC R. R. 
to Petaluma, S'onoma, Santa Rosa, and all intermediate points, via 
Donahue Landing, by steamer to Donahue; and from thence by 
cars to Petaluma and Santa Rosa, and by stages to Healdsburg, 
Sonoma City and other points. 

TIME TABLE— On and after Monday, January i6th, 1871, 
the new and commodious steamer Sacramento, Capt. Wm. 
Galloway, will leave daily, (Sundays excepted), until further 
notice, as follows: From Jackson street Wharf, at 8.30 a, m.; 
Trains will leave Santa Rosa at 10 a. m., Petaluma, 10.50 a. m., 
Donahue at 11.20 a. m. and arrive at San Francisco at 1,45 p. m. 
Through tickets to be had on board. Shippers and the traveling 
public will find this the most expeditious and comfortable route. 

NOTICE TO SHIPPERS -Freight received on dock until 
8.30 a. m. and after 12 m. For further information, inquire at 
the office, Room 12, over Hibernia Bank. 

P. DONAHUE, President. 



SUNDAY TIME TABLE.— Steamer leaves as usual, 8.30 
a. m. arrives at Santa Rosa 12.30 p. m. Stage for Sonoma at 
12 m. 

Returning — Leaves* Santa Rosa at 3 p. m.; Petaluma at 
3.40 p. m.; Sonoma at 2 p. m.; arrives in San Francisco about 
6 p. m. 

Fare for round trip to Santa Rosa and back, only $3. 

P. DONAHUE. 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 



TAMALPAIS HOTEL, 

San Rafael, Mariii County, CaL 

14 MILES FROM SAN FRANCISCO. 



This Hotel is situated in the charming valley of San 
Rafael, which for salubrity of climate, beauty of scenery 
and convenience of access is unsurpassed by any other 
locality in the State. 

Horses can be obtained at the Hotel for the purpose 
of making the ascent of Mount Tamalpais, (2,600 feet 
high) which can be done within three hours and without 
a guide, on the new road that has recently been made 
to the summit. 

Visitors will take the Steamer ''Contra Costa," foot of 
Broadway, at 9.30 a. m., i, 4,30 p. m., daily, Sundays ex- 
cepted, and will reach San Rafael within i:^ hours. 

Returning — trains leave at 8, 11 a. m., and 2.45 p. m. 

The Hotel OmnilDus will be found at the Depot on 
the arrival of each train and will convey passengers and 
baggage to and from the Hotel, free of charge. 

R. PARDOJV, Jr., 

SAN RAFAEL. 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER, 



AMERICAN HOTEL, 

Main Street, Petahuna. 
MRS. WM. ORDWAY, Proprietress. 



This Hotel, first-class in every particular, is the leading 
house in this city and one of the best hotels on the 
coast. 

THE BUILDING is a large, three-story, fire-proof 
brick, situated in the center of the business part of the 
city, well ventilated, supplied with water and gas, perfectly 
arranged with a view to comfort and convenience, 
containing sixty three rooms, elegant parlor, pleasant 
reading room, first-class Bar and Billiard room. Hair 
Dressing Saloon and Cigar Stand. 

THE ROOMS, single and en-suite, are large, with 
high ceilings, well ventilated and elegantly furnished. 

THE TABLE is supplied with the best the market 
affords, prepared and served in first-class style. 

A LIVERY STABLE is connected with the Hotel. 
Splendid Carriages are furnished upon notice at the office, 

OMNIBUSES convey guests to and from the Hotel 
to cars and steamers, free of charge. 

STAGES from the city leave from this Hotel. 

Tourists, visiting the city, are shown every courtesy 
and attention in all departments of the Hotel. 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 



California Livery Stable s 



H. B. HASBROUCK, Proprietor. 



Washington Street, 



Petaluma. 




Elegant Carriages of all descriptions with the best 
trained horses, either for carriage or the saddle. 

Pleasure parties furnished with the best of teams and 
careful and experienced drivers. 

There are beautiful drives in the neighborhood, and 
many points of interest which travelers and tourists 
should visit. The proprietor can furnish any number 
of conveyances for the purpose at short notice and on 
very reasonable terms. 

H. B. HASBROUCK. 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 



KESSING HOTEL. 



F. H. COE, Proprietor. 



MAIN STREET, - SANTA ROSA, 



This new and well furnished Hotel is now 
open for the accommodation of the public. 
In all its departments the House is well 
adapted to insure the comfort of all who 
patronize it. The Proprietor will exert his 
utmost endeavors to accommodate, in an 
agreeable manner, all who favor him with 
their patronage. 

FRANK H. COE, 

Proprietor. 



2a 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 



FASHION 

LIVERY STABLE 

NEW BRICK, NO. 9, 

Corner of Main and Second Streets, 
SANTA ROSA, 



Buggies, Carriages and Saddle Horses at 
low rates and short notice. 

Persons visiting the Geysers, and localities 
of interest in that vicinity, will find it to 
their advantage to give me a call. 

A large number of stalls and sheds, and 
a large corral connected with the Stable, 

Particular attention paid to transient stock. 

7. P. CLARK, 

Proprietor, 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 



SOTOYOME HOUSE, 

HEALDSBURG, 

SONOMA COUNTY, - - CALIFORNIA. 



This long established House has gained a wide-spread 
reputation throughout this section of the State for its 
home-like conveniences and comfortable apartments. 

Here the stranger is made to feel himself at home, 
and his every want anticipated. 

The Rooms are neatly furnished and well ventilated, 
and the Table supplied with the best the Market 
affords.. 

This village being situated on the west bank of the 
Russian River, in a pleasant and healthful valley, is a 
most inviting resort for the invalid and pleasure seeker. 

B. C. WRIGHT, 

Proprietor. 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 



Healdsburg & Santa Rosa 

Livery Stables. 

Emerson, Hawkins & Co. 

Having extensive Stables, both in Healds- 
burg and Santa Rosa, are prepared to furnish 
every kind of vehicle on short notice, for 
any part of the Country, 

Carriages for the Geysers and to all points 
of interest in or around the valleys. Horses 
and carriages may be engaged from us, 
either at Healdsburg or Santa Rosa and left 
at any other point as may be desired. 

Mr. N. W. Bostwick has charge of the 
business at Santa Rosa, where he will grant 
every facility to those who favor him with 
their patronage. 

Emerson, Hawkiits & Bostwick. 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. xxxi 



Cloverdale HoteL 



THOMAS S. COLVIN, Proprieton 



CL O VERDALE, - CALIFORNIA. 



This House has just been enlarged to 
more than double its former size, newly 
furnished throughout, and is now open to 

THE TRAVELING PUBLIC 

The Proprietor will endeavor to keep the 
House to the satisfaction of all 



Daily Sta£-es to all pa^'ts of the Country, 



xxxii TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 

CLOVERDALE 

LIVERY STABLE 

CLOVERDALE. 



HALL, CURTLS & BRUSH. 




We have constantly on hand a large stock 
of horses and carriages in fine runningr order. 

Pleasure and excursion parties, and all 
who desire to drive around our beautiful 
valley, will find all their requirements at our 
Stable, at the lovv^est rates. 

HALL, CURTIS & BRUSH, 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 



Cloverdale and Mendocino 

TRI- WEEKLY 

STAGE LINE. 



yESSE D, CARR & CO,, Proprietors, 



Carrying U. S. Mail and Wells, Fargo & Go's Express. 
Fare to Anderson Valley (Booneville), $4; to Navarra, 
|7; to Albion, $7; to Little River, $8; to Mendocino, 

$8. 



Navarra Hotel. 



MOORE BROTHERS, - Proprietors. 



BOARD, $7 per week; $1.50 per day. 



Well located on the banks of the Sabine Creek, with a 
fine view of the Ocean; surrounded by a heavy redwood 
forest. Good Hunting and Fishing in the neighborhood. 



xxxiv TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 

EMERSON HOUSE, 

CLOVERDALE. 
PERRY M. EMERSON, - Proprietor, 



Board, $2 a day; $8 to %\2 a week. 



Special attention paid to the comfort and 
accommodation of families, tourists, pleasure 
parties and the traveling public. 

The House is a fire-proof brick, neat and 
well kept. 

Persons wishing to spend some time in 
the country, can find no pleasanter place. 
Suites of rooms for families. 

PERRY M. EMERSON. 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 



SKAGGS' 

HOT SPRINGS. 



B. FRANK TUCKER, Proprietor. 



This delightful and justly celebrated v/atering place, 
located in a romantic valley, 14 miles southwest from 
Healdsburg, Sonoma County, has been leased by the 
undersigned for a term of years; he has thoroughly 
renovated and re-furnished the Hotel and Cottages, 
making this establishment on a par with any simular 
resort in the State. Tourists, pleasure seekers or invalids 
will find this watering place unsurpassed for the salubrity 
of its climate, the beauty of its scenery, the medicinal 
virtues of its mineral waters, and in its facilities for 
HUNTING AND TROUT FISHING. 

Guests may be assured that nothing will be omitted 
on the part of the proprietor, which can add to their 
comfort. 

B. FRANK TUCKER, 

Proprietor. 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 



THE CALIFORNIA 

Cotton Growers and Mamtfactiirers 
ASSOCIATION, 



Incorporated for 2^years,fro7n April lo, 1871, to April 10, 



CAPITAL STOCK, - ^500,000.00 

25,000 SHARES OF $20 EACH. UNASSESSABLE. 



The objects of The California Cotton Growers and Manufactureks 
Association, are briefly: To grow Cotton, and to manufacture the same on 
their plantation — to save freights — into Domestic Fabrics. 

Money, Land, Machinery, Tools, Horses, Harness, and any value that can 
be made available for the benefit of the enterprise, will be acceptable for the 
paid up Certificates of the Stock of the Association. 

TRUSTEES.— Gov. H. H. Haight, William C. Ralston, Charles J. 
Pilsbury, Edward B. Neely, James Dale Johnston, Edward Spilker, H. H. 
Bancroft, Robert Christy, J. M. Strong, John Wieland, Charles Rowe. 

Parties living at a distance, but who may desire to secure Shares in the 
Stock of the Association, can have their Certificates Mailed or Expressed, on 
the General Agent receiving Post office Order, or the Receipt of any Banker, 
for Amount Deposited to the Credit of THE CALIFORNIA COTTON 
GROWERS AND MANUFACTURERS ASSOCIATION. 

JAMES DALE JOHNSTON, Secretary, 

SAN FRANCISCO, CAL. 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. xxxvii 

H. ROSEKRA.NS. . S. READ. 

H. ROSEKRANS & Co. 

IMPORTERS AND DEALERS IN 

HARDWARE, 

Builders' Materials, Carpenters' Tools, 

HO USE-FURNISHING UTENSILS, 

AND ALL KINDS OF 

shelf hardware, 
135 Montgomery Street 

NEAE BUSH STREET, 

SAN FRANCISCO. 



xxxviii TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 

ESTIMATE OF CAPITAL STOCK— INVESTMENT— PRODUCTION- 
SALARIES-INSURANCE AND CONTINGENT 
EXPENSES OF THE 

CALIFORNIA 
Silk Manufacturing Co 

FOE THE FIRST OPERATIVE YEAR. 



Capital Stock --.-... $50,000 
Estimate of Investment: 

Site, Building, Machinery, Safe and Fixtures - - $22,000 



Active Capital ... 28,000 

3. Estimate of Production .... $150,000 

Profit, 33^^ per cent. ... $50,000 

$78,000 

4. Estimate of General Expenses, Salaries, Insurance etc. $8,700 

Contingent Expense Account ... 1,000 $9,700 

$68,300 
Deduct Active Capital as in Estimate No. 2 ... 28,000 

Profit on first year's Manufacturing, to be Divided amongst Stock- 
holders, /rci r^?/^ ---... $40,300 

The furegoing exhibit shows the operations of the 3'ear, dating from com- 
mencement, as having cleared Estimai e No. 2, being the amount of 1 nvestment 
in Site, Building, Machinery, Safes and Fixtures, and, in addition to the 
preservation of the working Active Capital of $28,000, clearing a dividing 
profit of $40,300. The profits of succeeding years will constantly grow larger. 

It is expected that discriminating men of business will readily avail 
themselves of this organization, relatively to make money, and to incidentally 
promote the prosperity of the trade of the City of San Francisco and the 
Pacific Coast, and purchase the Stock offered bj' the Company while it is at 
par, as it will shortly command a premium. No more solid basis, as a 
remunerative business to invest in, can be possibly presented. 

Officers of the Co7npany: — 1". Ellsworth, President; Jas. Dale Johnston, 
Secretary; Ex Gov. P. H. Burnett, President Pacific Bank, Treasurer. 

Trustees: — Henry F. Williams, Timothy Ellsworth, Hiram Rosekrans, 
Charles J. Pilsbury, James Dale Johnston. 

OFFICE, 125 SANSOME STREET, ROOM 50. 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 



G. GROEZINGER, , 

CALIFORNIA 

Red &Wliite Wines 

PORT, SHERRY, ANGELICA, 

CALIFORNIA GRAPE BRANDIES 

ETC., ETC. 

JV. W. cor7ier Battery and Phie Sts,, 

SAN FRANCISCO. 



The undersigned, owning 370 acres of the choicest vineyard 
land in Napa Valley, planted with the best varieties of German 
and French grapes, has erected an extensive building at Yount- 
ville for the storage and manufacture of Wines, the capacity of 
which is 300,000 gallons. In addition to the supply from his 
own vineyard, large quantities of grapes are purchased from the 
upper and lower valleys. Only the best and most experienced 
Wine Makers and Distillers from Germany and France are 
employed in this establishment. 

He is prepared to fill all orders for any of the above articles, 
of guaranteed purity and the finest quality and flavor. 

G. GROEZINGER. 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 



PIANOS, ORGANS, 



MUSIC PUBLICATIONS. 



NEW PIANO AGENCY.— Messrs. A. L. Bancroft & Co. 
have organized, under the management of Wm. Henry Knight, 
a MUSIC DEPARTMENT, where may be found a complete 
assortment of PIANOS, ORGANS, SHEET MUSIC AND 
MUSIC PUBLICATIONS. Following are some of their spec- 
ialties: 

I. The GEORGI PL\NO-FORTE— a new and magnificent 
instrument; in every respect strictly first-class, and becoming 
very popular in the East. 

II. The PRINCE ORGANS AND MELODEONS.— 
There are 46,500 of these now in use. They are unsurpassed 
among reed organs. 

III. The McCAMMON PIANOS, formerly known as the 
celebrated " Boardman & Gray" Piano. A very superior, moderate 
pi iced instrument. 

IV. The COTTAGE AND SCHOOL PIANO.— In small 
sized cases, elegant in appearance, of low cost, and very durable. 

V. HOOK'S PIPE ORGANS FOR CHURCHES.— The ' 
best manufactured. 

VI. LUNAN'S GERMAN UPRIGHT PIANOS.— Fine- 
toned, thoroughly well made instruments. 

VII. MUSIC PUBLICATIONS.— Sheet Music, Instruction 
Books, etc., etc. 

For Descriptive Circulars and Price Lists, address or apply to 

A. L. BANCROFT & COMPANY, 
Music Department, 
Bancroft's Building, SAN FRANCISCO. 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. xli 



THE CALIFORNIA 

INK COMPANY, 

405 & 407 SANSOME STREET, 

SAN FRANCISCO. 



GEORGE L. FAULKNER, Agent. 



Are manufacturing Writing Inks of different colors, equal if 
not superior to those of Eastern or Foreign manufacture. 

For our Black Writing Fluid, we claim: 

1st. — That it will not corrode or clog the pen, but keep it 
always in a bright, clean condition. 

2d. — That there is no sediment that can settle and impair 
the color, 

3d. — That it flows freely from, and is of a rich, deep color 
as soon as it leaves the pen. 

4th. — It is not affected by acids, as an acid that would remove 
the ink will eat up the paper. 

5th. — It cannot be washed off with water. 

6th. — It is a California production, and the manufacture of 
the same keeps thousands of dollars in the State, that have hitherto 
been sent abroad for Ink. 

We also make a superior article of MUCILAGE that cannot 
be excelled for its adhesive qualities. 

LIQUID LAUNDRY BLUEING.— A convenient and relia- 
ble preparation, to take the place of all others hitherto used for 
Laundry purposes. Put up in 8 oz. bottles and gallon jars. 

The attention of the trade is respectfully solicited to these 
manufactures. Perfect satisfaction guaranteed. 

Refer, by permission, to Messrs. A. L, Bancroft & Company, 
who are selling large quantities of our Writing Inks and Mucilage. 

CALIFORNIA INK COMPANY, 

GEO. L. FAULKiNER, Agent. 



xlii TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 

JOSEPH ISAAC. H. ROEITSCHECK. 

J. ISAAC & CO., 

IMPORTERS AND JOBBERS OF 

Stationery, Blank Books, 

MANILA AND WRAPPING PAPERS, 
Playing Cards, Labels, Liquor Essences, 

ETC., ETC., ETC. 

5/j Sansome St., cor. Merchant, 

SAN FRANCISCO. 



J. ISAAC & CO'S 

Paper Warehouse. 

DEALERS IN PAPERS 

OF ALL DESCRIPTIONS, 

Envelopes, Inks, Twine, Playing Cards 

LIQUOR AND WINE LABELS, 

ESSENTIAL OILS, ETC., ETC 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. xliii 



Blake, Robbins & Co., 



IMPORTERS AND JOBBERS OF 



Bookj, NewSj Writing and 

WRAPPING PAPER, 

Paper Bags, Card Stock, Straw Paper, 
Straw and Binders' Board, Inks, Bronzes, Etc. 



AGENTS FOR 

Carson's Celebrated Letter Papers, 

INFERIOR TO NONE. 

Agents for Dexter's Manila Papers. 
Agents for Whiting Mill Paper, 

AND OTHER LEADING BRANDS. 



^ i6 Sacramento & ^ ig Commercial Sts. 

San Francisco. 



Francis Blake, J 

James Moffitt, [ San Francisco. 

Chas. F. Robbins, ) 

James W. Towne, New York. 



New York Office, i8 and 20 Vesey Street, 



xliv TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 

FOR THE VERY 

Best Photographs, 

GO TO 

BRADLEY 

AND 

RULOFSON, 

429 Montgomery Street, 

SAN FRANCISCO. 



Closed on Sundays. 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. xlv 

FOR FINE HirS 

GO TO 

J. C. MeussdorfFer. 



NORTH EAST CORNER 



OF 



Montgomery & Bush Sts, 



SAN FRANCISCO. 



xlvi TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 

McAfee, Spiers & Co., 

Boiler Alakers and 
GENERAL MACHINISTS. 



High and Low- Pressure Boilers, 

STATIONARY AND MARINE. 

Howard St., bet. Fremont and Beale, 

SAN FRANCISCO. 



Also Orders received for every descrip- 
tion of Machinery. 

Having 24 years' experience in this business, we feel 
confident of being able to compete, as to quality of work, 
with any establishment on the Pacific Coast. 

Particular and personal attention given to repairs of 
old boilers on steamships and steamboats. 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. xlvii 

The shortest and best route to 

rOSEMlTE VALLET. 

C. p. R, jR. to Modesto, thence by stage to 

Cotdterville, Bower Cave, Pilot 

Peak and Crane Flat. 

Leaves Modesto qp Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday at 5 
o'clock, A.M., arrives at Coulterville at 2 P. M.; distance 50 
miles; leaving Coulterville at 4P.M., arrive at I3ovver Cave, 
at 7 P. M. Next morning leave Bower Cave at 6 A, M., and arrive 
at Crane Flat at ii A.M. Take Saddle Horse and arrive at the 
Hotels in the Valley, at 4 o'clock, P. M., 15 miles horseback. 
Returning, leave Yosemite at 7 o'clock, A. M., distance, 46 miles, 
arrive at Coulterville at 5 o'clock, p. M., leave Coulterville at 5 
A. M,, arrive at Modesta, at 4 o'clock p. M. 

The above rouce is superior to all others, as there is less time 
consumed on the road, more rest, and the whole route gives finer 
scenery than by any other, from the fact that after you strike the 
foot hills, you pass along the dividing ridge between the O'uolumne 
and Merced rivei's, to the East, the Sierra Nevada, with Castle 
Peak, Mount Dames, and other prominent points, to the West, is 
the San Joaquin, and the Coast Range; also less dust than any 
other route, as the route is East and West, and the north winds 
that are almost constantly blowing, carry the dust from you. 

And as a round trip is aHvays desirable; parties can go by 
Coulterville, and out via Big Trees and Mariposa, or vice versa. 

By the first of June, there will be but 2% miles horseback 
riding into the valley. 

The nights at 13ower Cave are cool and refreshing, unsur- 
passed on the whole route. 

Through Tickets for sale at all the railroad offices, Sacra- 
mento and Eathrop. 

G. PV. COULTER, Agent. 

Office at C. B. & W; R. R. R. office 214 Montg'y Street. 



xlviii TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 

THE SHORTEST AND 

BEST ROUTE TO YOSEMITE 
Via .Modesto. 



ROSS HOUSE, MODESTO. 

J AS. COLE, Proprietor, 



Tourists will find this House conducted in first-class 
style. Charges moderate, and every attention paid to 
Guests. Stages leave this House daily for iSnelling's, 
Hornitas, Mariposa, Yosemite, and all points south. 



YOSEMITE STABLES, 

MODESTO, CAL. 



HORSES, CARRIAGES AND SADDLE HORSES 

To let on reasonable terms. 

Horses boarded with the best of care, by the day or week. 

Private Teams Furnished at the shortest notice; also Two 

Four or Six Horse Turnouts furnished for Tourists, 

with Concord or Kimball Carriages, with careful 

and experienced Drivers. 

F. H. ROSS, Proprietor, 



Modesto is situated at the terminus of the Visalia Division of the C. P. R. R. 

The Ross House, also the Yosemite Stables were built by F. H. Ross, almost 
exclusively for the accommodation of Tourists, and no pains will be spared to 
make their visit to the House, or transit to the valley comfortable and pleasant. 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. xlix 

VALUABLE BOOKS, 

For Children and Youth. 



PUBLISHED BY 

ANDREW F. GRACES, 

20 CORNHILL, BOSTON, MASS. 



THE SUNSHINE SERIES.— By H. N. W. B. Six volnmes. i8mo., $3.60 

This is an entirely new series of books, by one of the best writers of juvenile 
books. They are put up in a neat box, and will be found excellent for the 
"Sabbath School Library." 

AMY GARNETT. One vol., 16 mo. $1.25 

LYNDANEWTON.— By Mrs L.J. H.Frost. 16 mo., - - - 1.50 

An excellent book, and one which will interest every one. 
DAVY'S MOTTO. 16 mo., . . - 1.25 

It is better to do well than to say well is the motto. 
JOE AND THE HOWARDS; or Armed with Eyes. By Carl. 16 mo 1.25 

It gives much valuable information in regard to insects, both on land and 
water, in such a manner as cannot fail to amuse children, while it is storing their 
minds with that which is useful for them to know. 
THE RAINFORD SERIES.— By Glance Gaylord. 

Four volumes in box, -...-.... $6.00 
THE WOODBINE SERIES.— By Mrs. Madeline Lesle. i6mo. Il- 
lustrated, ........... 1.25 

This is an entire new set, by a very popular author. Other volumes will be 
issued from time to time. The title pages are printed in colors. 
THE ARLINGTON SERIES. 4 vols., i6mo. 

Four volumes in bo.x, -..-.-... $5.50 

THE PERCY FAMILY.— By Rev. D. C. Eddy, D. D. 

Five volumes with neat box, - - - - -- - - 5.00 

THE CEDAR BROOK STORIES, or the Clifford Children. By Mrs. 
A. S. M., author of" Only a Pauper." 5 vols. i8mo. 
The five volumes handsomely illustrated sn a neat box with illuminated' 

covers, -. 3.25 

CORWIN'S WEST'S SERIES.— 6 vols in a box, .... 4,50 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 



GET THE BEST BOOKS 

FOR THE CHILDREN, 



EfQe Wingate's Work. By Mary Dwiuell Chellis, - - - - $1.50 

Dea. Sim's Prayers. By Mary Dvvinell Chellis, - - - - 1.50 

Pleasant Pages and Bible Pictures, 20 illustrations; - - - 1.50 

Carl Bartlettor What cau I do? By D. S. Ericsou, 1 vol. - 1.25 

Bill Drock's luvestment. By Mary Dwinell Chellis, 1 vol. - - l.-'iO 

The Old Doctor's i-OLi. By alary Dwinell Chellis, - - - 1.50 

Mr. Pendleton's Cup. By Glance Gaylord, 1.25 

Miss Patience Hathaway. By Glance Gaylord, - - - . 1,50 

Donald Dcane. By Glance Gaylord, -.-... 1.50 

Good Measure. A story for boys. By D. S. Ericson, - - 1.50 

Clean Your Boots, Sir? A capital story lor boys, - - - - .60 

The Little Peanut Merchant 1.25 • 

Molly's Bible. By Miss M^ry D. Chellis, 1.50 

Truth and Trust, or Iron AJoun tain, 1.25 

Hopes and Fears, or Broad Oaks, 1.25 

Good for Evil, or Rose Cottage, ------- 1.25 

Sidney de Grey, or the Rival School Boys. By Lawrence Lancewood, 1.25 

Nellie Wairen, or the Lost Watch. By Lawrence Lancewood, Esq., 1.25 

Louis Sinclair. By Lawrence L mcewood, Esq., ... 1.25 

Mark Diiuuiug's Enemy. By Mary Dwiuell Chellis, . - . I.50 

The Hermit ot Holcombe. By Mary Dwiuell Chellis, - - 1.50 

Breaking the Rules, 1.25 

Earl Whiting, 1.25 

The Runaway Boy, - - 1.25 

Nellie Milton's Housekeeping, 1.25 

Brownie San dford, 1.25 

Sylvia's Burden. - 1.25 

Ruth Lovell, - 1.25 

Cousin Clara. By Lawrence Lancewood, 1.25 

Jamie Noble, 1.25 

f-eter Clinton. By Lawrence Lancewood, 1.25 

A Hole in the Pocket. By Aunt Hattic, 1.25 

Stopping the Leak. By Autjt Hattie, 1.25 

Lost but Found. By Aunt Hattie, 1.25 

Fashion and Folly. By Aunt Hattie, - ' 1.25 

Gypsy Breynton. By Miss E. Stuart Phelps. 1.25 

Gypsy's Cousin Joy. By Miss E Stuart Phelps, ... - 1.25 

Gypsy's Sowing and Reaping. By Miss E. Stuart Phelps, - . 1.25 

Gypsy's Year at the Golden Crescent, By Miss E. Stuart Phelps, 1.25 

PUBLISHED BY 

HENRY A. YOUNG & CO., 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 



SUBSCRIBE FOR THE 

Overland Monthly 

The 07ily Literary Magazine 
PUBLISHED ON THE PACIFIC COAST. 



The Seventh Volume of this popular California Magazine 
will commence with the July Number for 1871. Its popularity 
has induced the publishers to make still greater exertions in 
producing an interesting and instructive periodical. 



Terms: — $4.00 per ^cmwam., payable 
in advance. 

Club Rates: — Two copies, $7.00; 
Fivecopies,$i6.oo; Tencopies,$30.oo; 
and each additional copy, $3.00. lor 
every Club of Twenty Subscribers, an 
extra copy will be furnished GRATIS. 



PUBLISHED BY 

JOHN H. CARMANY & CO. 

No. 409 WASHINGTON STREET 

SAN FRANCISCO. 
3^ 




lii TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 



Thurnauer & Zinn, 




IMPORTERS OF 

French and German Fancy Baskets, 

ENGLISH AND AMERICAN WILLOW WARE, 

TOYS, FANCY GOODS 

AND YANKEE NOTIONS, 

CANE AND WILLOW CHAIRS, 

LADIES' WOEK STANDS, 

Wooden Ware, Feather Dusters, Brushes, 

ETC., ETC., ETC. 

533 MARKET STREET, 

Opposite Sutter and Sansome Streets, SAN FRANCISCO. 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. llii 

FOR SAVING VALUABLE PAPERS, 
NOTHING EQUALS 

SHIPMAN'S 

pate>;t adhesive 

Letter and Invoice File. 



We would respectfully call the attention of Business Men, 
Bankers and others,to our Patent Adhesive Letter and Invoice File. 

We claim that it is the best article in use for th'e preservation 
of all kinds of printed or written documents, such as Letters, 
Invoices, Bills, &c. &c. They are in use by most of the Business 
Firms and Companies in the United States. 

Its form is that of a scrap book, of various sizes, having narrow 
leaves with adhesive surface, which requires only to be moistened 
and the document applied; thus it becomes a book of 250 or 500 
letters, arranged in the order of da^es, secure from loss or misplace- 
ment, and as convenient for reference as a ledger account — and 
this with the least expense of time. Every lover of order or 
economist of time must appreciate its importance. 

We also keep constantly on hand, in great variety. Invoice 
and Scrap Books, Letter Copying Books, Blank Books and a full 
assortment of Stationery. 

ASA L. SHIPMAN & SONS, 

25 Chambers Street, New York. 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 



LORING'S 
RAILWAY NOVELS! 



WE COMIMEND THEM TO ALL TRAVELERS. 



ASK FOR THEM AT THE BOOKSTORES, AT THE DEPOT 

NEWS STANDS, OF THE BOYS IN THE CARS, 

AND ON THE BOATS. 



LORING'S SUCCESSFUL BOOKS: 

Louise M. Alcott's Moods, - - - - - - $1.25 

" " Three Proverb Stories, - - .75 

Virginia F. Townsend's Hollands, - - - - 1.25 

" The Mills of Tuxbury, - 1.25 

Laura Caxton's Marion Berkley, ----- 1.50 

George McDonald's Robert Falconer, - - - 2.00 

«' " David Elginbrod, - - - - 1-75 

" " Adele Cathcart, - - - 1-75 

" " Phantasies, - - - - . - 1.75 

Mrs. A. D. T. Whitney's Hitherto, . - - - 2.00 

«' " " The Gayworthys, - - - 2.00 

" " " Patience Strong's Outings, - I.V5 

«' " " Mother Goose for Grown Folks, 1.50 

" " " Faith Gartney's Girlhood, - 1.50 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 



STANDARD SCHOOL BOOKS 

PUBLISHED AND 

For sale by Charles Desilver, 
No. 1229 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia. 

And by Booksellers generally throughout the Union and the Canadas. 



Descriptive Catalogues furnished on applicatio7t, and any book sent by mail 
postage paid, on receipt of the advertised price. 



STANDARD SPEAKERS. 

Sargent's Standard Speaker, half roan, ------ $2 50 

Sargent's Intermediate Standard Speaker, half-turkey morocco, - - 2 00 

Sargent's Primary Standard Speaker, half-roan, .... 5o 

Sargent's Selections in Poetry, half-morocco, - - - . . i 50 

Frost's American Speaker, half-roan, 168 

STANDARD SCHOOL HISTORIES. 

Lord's History of the United States, half-morocco, . . . . i 68 

Lord's Modern History, half-morocco, ----.. 2 25 

Summary of History, designed to accompany Lord's Modern History. 

I vol., i2mo., cloth, 60 

Frost's History of the United States. i2mo., half roan, . - -168 

Frost's History of the United States, royal iSmo , half-roan, - - i 00 

History of England, Pinnock's improved edition of Goldsmith, revised by 

W. C. Taylor, LL. D., i vol. i2mo., half roan, . . . i 75 

History of France, by W. C. Taylor, LL. D. . i vol. i2mo., half-roan, . i 75 
History of Rome, Pinnock's improved edition of Goldsmith, revised by W. 

C. Taylor, LL. D., i vol. i2mo., half-roan, - - - - i 75 

NATURAL SCIENCES. 

Johnston's Turner's Chemistry, half turkey, - . . . . -2 50 
Johnston's Turner's Elements of Chemistry, i vol. i2mo., half-morocco, i 68 
Johnston's Natural Philosophy, r vol. i2mo., half-turkey morocco, i 75 

Johnston's Primary Natural Philosophy, i vol. i8mo., half-roan, - 75 

Guy's Astronomy and Keith on the Globes, i vol. i2mo., half-roan, i 25 

CLASSICAL WORKS. 

Virgil, Gaesar, Horace, Cicero, Sallust, Ovid, Juvenal, half-turkey moroc- 
co, each, 2 25 

Xenophon's Anabasis, and Homer's Iliad, half-turkey morocco, each, 2 75 

Clarke's Practical and Progressive Latin Grammar, half-turkey morocco, i 75 

Gospel of St. John, translation with the original Greek text, - - 275 
Livy. Interlinear translation by Hamilton and Clarke. {In Press.) 
To be followed by School Editions of other Classic Authors on the same plan 

For sale by A. L. Bancroft & Co,, 

721 Market St., San Francisco, Cal. 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 



The Most Popular Novels 

ARE THE 

SCHWARTZ NOVELS. 

Translated from the Swedish of Madame Marie 

Sophie Schwartz, by Miss Selma Borg, 

and Miss IMarie A. Brown. 

NOW READY. 



GUILT AND INNOCENCE. Paper, $i oo; Cloth. ,^i 50. 

" Madame Schwartz is a writer of much greater literary merit than Miss 
Muhlbach, whose works have been so widely circulated in this country." — New 
York Atlas. 
GOLD AND name. Paper, $1 00: Cloth, $1 50. 

" This is a powerful book; in plot and style, it is equally good. Its morals — 
it may be considered to have severaU-are unexceptionable." — Christian Stan- 
dard, Ci7icinnati. 
BIRTH AND EDUCATION. Paper. $1 00; Cloth, $1 50. 

"This title- would make one suppose that it was a book devoted to common 
schools and academies. Instead of that, it is a romance of the very highest 
class, — one of the best historical novels of the age." — Albajiy Evening Post. 
THE WIFE OF A VAIN MAN. 8vo., Paper, $1 00; Cloth, $1 50. 

In presentmg to American readers the first translations of this author, who in 
her own country is universally popular, the publishers take pleasure in making 
public the following tribute of the Great Swedish Lyric Artiste, Mli.e. Chris- 
tine NiLSSON. 

New York, November 28, 1870. 

Mademoiselle: — It is with great pleasure that I have learned that you, in 
conjunction with Miss Marie A. Brown have undertaken to translate into En- 
glish the magnificent works of Madame Schwartz. 

Allow me then, dear Mademoiselle, as a fervent admirer of Madame 
Schwartz, to offer you and Miss Brown my liveliest felicitations for having 
chosen an author of so immense merit to introduce to the American public a 
writer who has contributed to make the glory of our country. 

I wish you all the success you deserve, and beg you to be so kind as to send 
me a copy of the work as soon as it is published. 

Accept, Mademoiselle, as well as Miss Brown, my warmest sympathy and 
the assurance of my perfect consideration. 

CHRISTINE NILSSOX. 

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]xviii TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 

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Ixxii TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 



YOSEMITE 



AND 



BIG TREE GROVES 

IN TWO DAYS. 



IMPORTANT FOR TOURISTS. 



NEPV ROUTE FOR 1871, 

VIA THE 

VISA LI A DIVISION of the CENTRAL 
PACIFIC RAILROAD, 

FROM 

LATHROP, 

AND FROM THE TERMINUS OF THE C. P. 
R. R. BY STAGE, VIA 

MARIPOSA AND CLARK'S OR 
COULTERVILLE. 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. Ixxiii 

Yosemite and Big Tree Groves 

VIA 

Mariposa and Clark' s, or Coulterville. 



Thus a perscn can leave Sacramento at noon, or San Francisco at 4 p. m. 
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thousand feet below the " Point." 



LAKE TAHOE, 

Via -Stage fourteen miles from TRUCKEE. 

DONNER LAKE, 

Three miles from either TRUCKEE or SUMMIT, 

CALAVERAS BIG TREES, 

Via Stage, sixty-five miles from GALT, or sixty-two miles from MOKELUMNF, 



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iiiiii^ 



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Ixxvi TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. 

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tlilliard on New Trials, Svo. 

Hilliard on Contracts, 2 vols. Svo. (In preparation.) 
Pennsylvania State Reports,vols,i3to63; 51 vols,8vo.per vol. 4.50 
etc., etc., etc., etc. 

Kay & Brother always keep on hand a fall asso-.-iniint of 
the Current Law Publications, together with many books nov/ 
cither scarce or out of print, at the veiy lowest prices. 

Letters of inquiry promptly answered. 



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TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER, 



LINCOLN HOTEL, 

FESCADERO. 



CAPT. CIIAS. KINSEY, Proprietor. 



This Hotel, one of the best public houses at any of the 
summer resorts in California, is kept expressly for the pleasure 
and cotnfort of the ladies and gentlet?ien of San Francisco, many 
of whom have given this Hotel the preference, and a few of whose 
names the Proprietor of the Lincoln Hotel refers to, by their 
permission. — Hon. Sam'l. B. Axtell, M.C., Hon. H. L. Dodge 
and wife, Judge O. L. Shafter and wife, Mrs. Alpheus Bull and 
family, Maj. J. T. Hoyt and family, jNIr. J. J. Marks (Harbor 
Commissioner) and family, Mrs. Harding and family, Mr. F. S. 
Spring and family, Mr. J, J. Herr (Board of Brokers) and wife, 
Air. L. L. Baker (firm of Baker and Hamilton) and wife, Mr. A. 
G. Stiles and family, Hon. Ira. P. Rankin and wife, Capt. vS. 
Doane (Steamer China) and wife, Mr. W. C. Talbot (of Pope & 
Talbot) and wife, Mr. Henry Pierce (Board of Brokers), Mr. J. 
C. Olmstead (of Olmstead &Cone), Mr. Fisher (of Fisher& Co., 
Hatters) and family, Hon. ElishaCook ( Attorney), T.W. McLellan 
and wife, (of San Jose), Dr. Chas. Bertody and Mr. Francis 
Avery. 

The Hotel is centrally located, two miles from the famous 
PEBBLY BEACH. 

The house is neatly furnished with new furniture throughout. 
Parlor with a ■McCammon Piano, Reading, Sitting and Sleeping 
Rooms. 

FREE BATHS AND RIDES TO THE PEBBLE BEACH. 

In short, PESCADERO IS THE FAVORITE SUMMER 
RESORT, and LINCOLN HOTEL, under the charge of CAPT. 
KINSEY, aftbrds the best accommodations for pleasure seekers. 



TOURIST'S GUIDE ADVERTISER. Ixxix 

JOS. FIGEL, 
Clothier, Merchant Tailor 

AND DEALER EV 

Men's and Boys' Clothing, 

FURNISHING GOODS, TRUNKS, &C. 

211 MONTGOMERY STREET, 

J^uss Block, opjiosite Platfs Hall, 

Would respectfully invite the attention of the Public to his 

superior Stock of Goods, feeling confident that he can 

suit, both in regard to Price and Quality. 

A FEATURE 

In his business is the particular attention paid to the manufacture 
of Men's and Boys' Clothing, College and Military Uniforms of 
every description to Order, from a large assortment of Cloths, 
Cassimeres, Beavers, Scotch Tweed, etc. 

Elegance of Style and Perfection of Fit are in all cases 
guaranteed. 

A visit to my Establishment will convince you of my ability 
to please in every respect. 

JOS. FIGEL, 

No. 2 1 1 ^Montgomery Street, San Francisco, California. 



Woodward's Gardens, Mission St,, bet. 13th and 14th, San Francisco, C; 



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THE CET\TRAL TARK OF THE PACIFIC. 

(Sue page UO.) 



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